Is this normal to see??DOOR

Is there a good way to fix it??

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2003 Ford Crew Cab 6.0 Powerstroke Diesel 6 spd 4x4(For Sale)

1981 MB 300SD 190,000 miles Gray with cream interior.(sold)
1981 MB 300SD 239,000 miles Cream with Brown interior.(sold)

I don't think that is normal. I would take the door off and weld it to fix it.

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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

Pulling the door and putting it back...... hilarious experience -

You'd be amazed that 1/64" off adjustment at the hinge (in any direction) can throw the whole thing out of wack.

Two pals and I struggled all afternoon hanging a junkyard replacement door once - we finally settled for getting it to open and close within reason..... but it never had the solid Mercedes feel again.

Definitely you've got to weld something there, but dont remove the door unless you have no choice. I'd say rehanging doors is one of toughest DIY's anybody can do.

Abnormal. But not uncommon. Does that make sense?

Anyway, I think this should be welded without removing the door. Someone with more experience can tell you how it should be done - probably some grinding with a dremel tool along the seam to get down to shiney metal, and then a bead of penetrating weld.

I have a W123 door where the anchor apparently pulled loose and it has been welded back in. You'd never know it except by looking. And I just replaced the door check strap because it was getting cranky. Something I'd better do regularly now because the anchor point may be a bit weaker than stock (although for all I know its stronger with the weld.)

Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

If it were mine I would suggest disconnecting the check strap. You will need to remove the inner interior trim along with anything else that will/can burn in the area then weld it up or have a body shop weld it for you. Make sure you get some good primer on it after you have cleaned the new weld up. There will be some additional "issues" if it goes long enough to break out.

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Jim

that WILL melt! Before welding pull those lines out! If not you may have doors locking others unlocking or nothing at all. trust me on this and you needed ask me how I know (experience)



thebern

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1982 240D 313,000 (4 speed)
1984 300CD 172,483
1985 German Shepherd Dog -Lacey- R.I.P.11/04/05

Hood Stars, Wrist Crowns and Obsession Dobs

I didn't have a hard time getting my door lined back up when I put it back on, maybe I was lucky. I also had a helper and only had to tinker with the adjustment a couple times to get it back to just the right spot. I can imagine trying to do it by yourself.... those doors aren't light! I would defiantely remove all the vacuum lines before doing any welding unless you want to be replacing them.

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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k