![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I have been thrilled at the help, inspiration and advice I've gotten from this community so I thought I would share some of the Good, the Bad and the Ugly with you all and see which order you all would approach these various tasks.
Let me preface this by saying I am a 50 year old newbie... Haven't seen under a valve cover since college days but am looking forward to learning. 1982 300 D Turbo, white... 200,000+ Purchased the car for $2500 with new windshield. This car had sat for 5 months, but started right up after using the primer. The price may sound high, but the car runs great and is very driveable. Even the sunroof works (although slowly). Passed MD inspection OK after plugging rust holes with bondo (temporary I know). Engine and trans strong, only little blue smoke on start up and brakes fine (new pads). Maintains engine temp @ 90 degrees very well even with full load (hot day with AC on). Am getting around 28mpg. EGR valve is disabled (vacuum line plugged) Air was upgraded to R134 and blows cold. Climate control maintains the temperature fine... hot or cold... but occassionally blows a fuse on the HI/defrost setting (don't use any more). Has fine oil pressure characteristics.... when hot pegs out at 1000 rpm. Cruises great at 75mph+ Starts great... will even start without glow plugs. Shuts off immediately now that door-lock vacuum leaks fixed. She shifted very hard until I plugged a vacuum 3way hose junction that had an empty connector. I still don't know what hose went in there. Now shifts fine... but slight flaring from 2-3. Tires only 25% worn. My main concern is the considerable blow-by oil in housing (and on driveway). I am using about a quart of oil per 500 miles.... (using Dino brew.... Penzoil 15-40 Long Life for diesels - can buy cheap at Walmart). Except for this blow by, all the other characteristics of the engine seem very strong. Perhaps after the valves are set and I do a compression check I'll know more. Much oil on driveway though... more than I would like. I did replace the air filter housing bracket and made sure pipe was connected underneath, but still pools oil in housing. The ALDA screw has been exposed but I haven't attempted to adjust it. Have cleaned banjo fitting though... was very dirty. My first project was to change the oil/filter and do a coolent flush. Also installed new thermostat and new air filter housing bracket. My first "incident" involved a plugged fuel filter which resulted in being stranded for a few hours while I figured out that the car would run fine by bypassing it till I got home (didn't have a spare). This was very embarassing... was first outing with family to show off new car!!! "Issues" were/are: Door locks didn't open/close automatically. FIXED Tach didn't work FIXED Cluster bulbs dim FIXED Odometer stopped at 161,000 FIXED Blows fuse on HI/Defrost blower setting Antennae mast busted off Center Vents didn't work FIXED(permanently open) Water leak in front windshield FIXED/new windshield Rear defroster didn't come on Oil in air filter housing Air filter housing bracket broken FIXED Cruise control inoperative (have pulled amplifie) 2inch rust holes in rear wheel wells FIXED(temporary) Pinholes in muffler, but pipes ok Primary fuel filter clogged (small clear one) FIXED CV boots slightly leaking slight oil leak from front crankshaft seal Vacuum pump weak - Only12 pounds (?) "weeping" oil from lower oil cooler hose (not dripping) "weeping" oil pan gasket "weeping" valve cover ball joint rubber bad Dash cracked - FIXED (got cap) I am not viewing these issues as "problems", but "challanges". I'm proposing to set the valves this week and then do a compression check if I can locate a proper gauge. They are much more expensive than what is available at Sears. Will also do a Diesel-Dr shock treatment this tankfull and then change out both fuel filters. Will also clean strainer in tank. Next will do Deisel Purge treatment. Will drop oil pan and replace gasket this week. Also want to do a transmission fluid/filter change soon. Have acquired a Mity-Vac Gauge/Zit Popper and have already used it to diagnose and fix my door locks. Got the actuators from our local boneyard for a few bucks and a case of sunburn. Vacuum pump is only putting out around 12 pounds I think. Will double check this tomorrow. If true, will have to rebuild pump (can't afford new one). I have found the info from **************.com extremely helpful and have ordered their valve wrenches and several of their books. The one on vacuum systems was particularly helpful, as was the main book on general 123 diesel performance. I also redid my instrument cluster with info from his guide and from this board. This brings me up to date... hope is not too wordy but I suspect my story is not unusual. Any advice on my blow-by/oil problem or other things to check will be appreciated.
__________________
Mr Goodfahrt (pronounced FAIRT... means "good trip" in German) 1982 300D Turbo Pastel Gray (off-white) 200k+(?) newbie but willing Last edited by Mr Goodfahrt; 09-16-2003 at 11:21 AM. |
Bookmarks |
|
|