New project car, 79 240d, just aquired, i got questions - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

79-240d-project · #1 10-07-2003, 01:25 AM

Hello,

I just aquired a 1979 240D, sunroof, manual transmission, it has 200,000 miles on it. It is my new project car. Hopefully soon to be my daily driver so I can quit running my 3/4 ton truck all over the place.

I have read various threads to glean as much information before posting some specific questions.

I want to get this baby running and keep it that way for the long term.

The car is very clean on the interior. I pulled up the floor mats both front and back, not a spot of rust anywhere. The car came from California originally and the second owners brought it to Washington only a few years ago. It has spent most of its life in a dry environment. It will now be garaged. It has been parked and not run for about 1 year. It has a very straight body, 4'' long crease in rear passenger door but the paint is still intact.

Light yellow in color, needs to be buffed out.

I paid $800.00 for it. Is that reasonable?

The primary fuel filter, spin on canister, will be replaced as well as the small plastic inline(secondary?). I want to drain the fuel tank and replace the strainer in that as well. Is this a good idea?

Fuel gauge is not operational. Could this be tinkered with or is it best to just replace? Could alge in the fuel tank cause problems with this?

I intend to replace all fluids throughout the vehicle. Trans, Cool, Brake-Clutch, Rear Diff. Any suggestions for brands?

The car starts fine, just will not shut off. I intend to rebuild the vacuum pump. The brakes require lots of foot pressure to work. I am assuming this is also vacuum pump related?

The sunroof opens and closes REAL slow?

Door seals are very dry and cracked. Anyone have experience with replacing these? Easy, hard? I see Performance products has them. Is a special glue required?

Antenna is broken, I am not sure if it is power or not. Performance also has those but they seem to be very spendy.

I want to replace the radio with a new one. Is this difficult?

Are factory manuals still sold? Where? A MB dealer?

A couple of small spots of rust under the trunk lid seal. I will replace the trunk lid seal and get to the rust. Any suggestions?

Any other suggestions, information, or experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

J

P.E.Haiges · #2 10-07-2003, 02:58 AM

J,

Not necesary to drain fuel tank or clean strainer unless it is plugged and won't pass fuel. If you notice a difference in performance in a full tank verses an almost empty tank, then the in-tank filter is starting to get plugged probably by algea. You will need to put an algeaside in the tank to kill any algae if there is any in the tank. Don't put new filters on because any algae might contaminate them and you will have to replace them again. Leave the original filters in place and if they don't plug, they don't have to be replaced at all.

I know it seems illogical but the inline filter is called thre primary and the canister filter is called the secondary. I guess they were named in the order the fuel flows thru them.

$800 is a very resonable price. I've paid more for parts cars.

I suggest synthetic oil for the engine. Rotella Synthetic , Mobil 1, Delvac 1 or Castrol Syntec are good choices.

Factory repair manuald used to be ordered directly from MB USA. A form was available from dealers. I don't know if this service is still available. Check with a MB dealer. Newer MB have CDs instead of books but I don't know if they are available for the older MB. All are expensive as is anything you buy from MB.

P E H

300SDog · #3 10-07-2003, 06:04 AM

On the fuel guage - the sender mechanism is located under the first aid box. Basically you want to pull the mechanism, take it apart and clean algae and slime from it when tank holds little fuel..... say 300+ miles after fill up. Btw, total range of full tank of fuel is about 400+ miles - this info will help you while driving without fuel guage, using odometer instead.

Any ordinary radio shack antenna will do, unless you want to go the sucker route of having $100+ electric antenna that wont last 3 yrs. Btw, it will depreciate classic value of the car to replace the original radio with newfangled device filled with tiny buttons that nobody can understand.

__________________
'80 300SD/ w116
'79 240D 4-spd
'71 750cc Guzzi

previously owned:

'83 240D 4-spd
'77 280SEL 4-spd
'74 280/8
'72 250/8
'65 220Sb 4-spd
'63 220Sb 4-spd
'63 190c 4-spd
'61 220Sb 4-spd
'60 190b 4-spd

Last edited by 300SDog; 10-07-2003 at 06:18 AM.

leathermang · #4 10-07-2003, 09:21 AM

First I think you are doing very well in your planning...and you got a great price on it.... when you get it going and reliable you will love it... ( speaking as the owner of a 1980 manual trans )....
One item on nomenclature... ' spin on canister' ... a canister is basically a tube filter and will have a bottom which is part of the car.. you discard and replace the middle portion... a ' spin on' is like an oil filter on American cars... you unscrew the whole thing and put a new one on it....
When I get an old car I replace all the filters I can find... and I see no problem since this car is new to you and OLD.... in going ahead and checking/cleaning the screen or filter in the gas tank. Then you know what you bought.
If you just use 1. fuel tank filter 2. clear inline filter 3. spin on or canister filter (depending on what one has ) everyone will know what you are speaking about.
No special glue is required... rubber to metal is typically put on with ' yellow death' (the contact cement made by 3M) called ' super trim adhesive (?). But most any contact cement will work find if you follow the directions... which include cleanlyness and letting it ' tack ' before putting the two things together... both with a thin coat of the glue...
Do a search, lots of good specific info on cleaning and lubricating the sunroof....
Algae can really really be a problem.. so get a few tubes of Diesel Doctor or BioBar or whatever.... this has been discussed in threads also.... typically use a tube every six months unless you see black specs in your CLEAR inline filter... be sure when mail ordering that they send you CLEAR ones... opaque ones exist..you don't want them....
Most people get the factory shop manuals off Ebay I think.. at least I have on the bargains ... I did pay $200 when I got my first MB about 5 years ago for all the manuals except electrical ... which was 10% of the car price ($2000) and well worth it... but you may can get much better deals in Ebay auctions.... just may take longer to find them....
Yes,,, 99 percent chance the vacuum pump and brakes/shutting off are all one problem... and will clear up when you fix the vacuum pump.
The fluids are all discussed in threads.. lots of opinions there...

Ken300D · #5 10-07-2003, 10:19 AM

Your # 1 task to prevent rust is to clean out the drains below the hood hinges. If these are blocked this area will overflow into the passenger compartment and cause rust.

There are two levels of drains on each side. One level is in the hinge "pockets" just below the springs, and the lower level is just below the hinge pockets - built into the fenders. On the battery side it is pretty much hidden below the battery tray.

So, to any new W123 owner, I'd recommend removing the battery and battery tray to clean the drain underneath, and to inspect for and repair rust. POR-15 is a great product if rust neutralization is required.

Ken300D

mholbrook · #6 10-07-2003, 11:14 AM

Before you rebuild the vacuum pump (I asusme because the engine will not turn off), you should get a miti-vac and check the vacuum door locks and all the HVAC actuators, brake booster etc for vacuum leaks. It is usually a vacuum leak that causes the engine to not turn off. If your door locks are not working, that is the first place to start. Nearly impossible to trace without a miti-vac but with it, you can track down the leaks in minutes.

P.E.Haiges · #7 10-07-2003, 11:41 AM

Leather,

I agree that a better name for the newer type fuel filter is a "spin on" filter and I will call it that in the future. But I would then call the older type of fuel filter a "cartridge" filter.

P E H

wgreen · #8 10-07-2003, 03:44 PM

sounds like you bought the same car as i did , even the same condition!i have had fun learning about these cars and working on them.
as for as the "spin-on" fuel filter , the large nut on top does the initial loosening , turn it out about one turn than spin the filter off,you will spill fuel doing this, fill the new filter with fuel and spin it on than tighten up the large nut on top to seal.

changing all the fluids is not that hard i put my car up on ramps to get better access, the tranny & diff have allen type plugs (found them at autozone) make sure you remove the filler plug BEFORE the drain plug, these were REALLY tight on my car. i used mobil 1 75w-90 in the diff, and dextron III in the manual tranny..

i removed my insturment cluster to check all the connections and to replace burnt bulbs, it just pops out if you remove the lower panel that is just above the brake and clutch pedals you can reach up behind the dash and push the cluster out, than you need to unscrew the spedo cable and disconnect the oil pressure tube( i think you need a 10mm & 13mm for this) than one large round plug and about three other single wires, make sure on the single wires that you mark them to get them back in the right place...
do an internet search for (baylor.edu) than look for rebuilding 617 vacuum pump, it is not easy but is doable..
i have found several maunals on ebay, i wouldnt get the haynes or other generic types....

great price , have fun with it and do lots of searches on this site there many helpful entries
BILL