Well, here's the deal with the green wire in this pic:



It comes from the firewall, which I'm going to guess it is connected to a momentary on switch that was added under the dash (I won't know this untill I can pull things apart and look...) from the firewall it goes toward the front of the engine, and then goes down to the glow plugs (has a nut on the ned of each with a washer and it pig-tails from glow plug to glow plug...

When you put the key in the ignition, and turn the glow-plug light (don't know the right name) does not come on. That could be a bulb I would guess... but I don't know.

Has anyone ever seen something like this done before? If so why? And how can I make it so it is right again?

Also, how do you suppose you operate this? Turn key to all-on position, and hold the momentary switch... and then start?

Thanks, GD

Update:

Ok, with the key OUT of the ignition, but the dome light on. When you press this button, the dome light dims slightly. The battery is brand new... which may explain why it only dims a bit.

Still don't know if that green wire is coming into the momentary switch I still need to take my meter and test it.

I'm also guessing that from reading here, that this IS the glow-plug work-around due to a relay issue? or due to something that costs more $$$ than the original owner wanted to do.

Is there a glow-plug relay in this year (1983?)

Back to my Haynes book...

GD

I think you hit it right. PO did some work around the glow plug timer. That timer is a box usually mounted on the front left inside fender (some older car have it other places). That the glow plug light never comes on suggests that also.
You will know if you found the timer, it has a black plastic cover and when it is slid off there would be a flat shiny fuse strip there.
Maybe the timer is not working. I would try to get it rewired and check it out, as the jury rigged wiring might suggest. From your pic the timer may even have been taken out of the car.
Actually what he did would probably works. Just sort of awkward to use.

I would bet that the PO also owned a 6.9 Ford (IH) Diesel. Pretty common "fix" on those since they will often have timer issues and burn out the plugs.

__________________
1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

Old Deis... from memory the timer is still there. I'm looking @ page 131 in my Haynes book.

How could I go about fixing this? All the book gives me is removal and installation...

or is this the way to go?:

Preglow Time Relay
4 Glow Plugs & Relay
Bosch has superseded the glow control relay to a new glow plug kit which includes a new controller and 4 glow plugs. This new controller allows the glow plugs to continue functioning up to 3 minutes after the vehicle has been started, providing a smoother engine start up and less exhaust smoke. It is important to keep this in mind when testing the glow circuit func- tionality. For vehicles with 5 cylinders, 1 additional glow plug is required (0 250 201 039).

Thanks,

GD

I did this on a miserable diesel VW Rabbit pickup I owned back in the 1980s.

The POS ate $90 glow timer relay assemblies at the rate of about one every 3 months. After the third one, I wised up and installed a momentary-contact paddle switch wired through a relay to run the glow plugs. Worked like a charm.

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

In my opinion, a momentary switch is probably better than a timer. It puts you in control of how long you want your plugs to glow. In cold weather, glow them longer and even keep them on for a while after the engine starts. In hot weather a quick tweak and off you go. If your brain is the timer relay, your not going to have to worry about any expenses if it fails.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Thanks kerry.

Just so I'm clear...

Let's say in *very* cold weather, below freezing we can say, around 25f... how long do I hold it down before I try to start the car, and do I keep in held down WHILE I crank?

Then I should keep it held down for another couple minutes I assume?

Thanks, GD

If you have the parallel plugs and not the series plugs, at those temperatures I'd probably glow for 45 seconds and keep it glowing for 20 seconds after it starts. I'd modify those numbers based on experience. Keep it glowing as you start it.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Wasuchi's probably right. Let me add to that by saying that, in an effort to make the 6.9l act more "user friendly", Ford installed 6 volt glow plugs and then put 12 volts to them. As a result, the plugs can't stay on for more than 10 seconds (at an ABSOLUTE maximum!! 6 to 8 seconds is preferable) without cooling off for the same period, without burning themselves out. Autolite brand plugs are such low quality that, sometimes, upon burning themselves out, they swell and the tips of the plugs break off into the combustion chamber...can lead to a scary conclusion.

This is coupled with a bimetallic spring that serves as a "controller" that tends to stick "on"...on Ford diesels, it's preferable to go to a push-button unit. There are many stories about people having a controller stick on, rendering the plugs useless and sometimes forcing the owner to pull the cylinder heads to get the tips out (the alternative can be real nasty)...

__________________
2001 VW Jetta TDI, 5 speed, daily driver
1991 Ford F-350, work in progress
1984 Ford F-250 4x4, 6.9l turbo diesel, 5 speed manual
Previous oilburners: 1980 IH Scout, 1984 E-350, 1985 M-B 300D, 1979 M-B 300SD, 1983 M-B 300D
Spark-free since 1999

GD,
On my '83 300D the glow plug relay is on the left front inner fender. Big box about the size of the end of a 2x4. Like they said, take the cover off and take the screws loose on the little strip fuse and see if it falls apart. If the relay is bad, just pick up another one at the salvage yard. Sometimes the connections get a bit flakey. Pulling the big connector off and on a few times seems to help. Basic test of glow plugs is with an ohmmeter.
My routine in winter is to run the glow plugs till the dash buzzer shuts up-twice! Car starts pretty easy after that even at 20 degrees F. When daughter was driving the car to school every day, I had a timer set up to power the block heater for two hours before she was due to leave. Hardest part was for her to remember to unplug the heater before she tried to drive off.
Put the wiring back to factory with good (used) parts and she'll be fine.

BobK has it right in his last report. I have timed the glow plugs on my 81SD and they time out at 11.5 secs. Seems to start ok, so long as all the glow plugs are working.
That timer would be easy enough to test without completely wiring it up to the engine. It is just a timer. Jump power to it and use an ohmeter to tell how long it passes 12v through.
I am thinking the power in line may be the largest single line going into the timer box. There would be a harness with five leads on the power out side.
I have a timer assembly sitting under my workbench somewhere at home, I could check it tonight if you can't sort it out.

Here's a pic of the green wire going to the glow plugs. The pic isn't the best -- it has been raining ALL day... I kept hoping it would stop... but... nope...



Thought you'd like to see how they did it... I think I'm liking the idea of being able to control it... I may just clean up the wiring a bit.

GD

Edit: Just noticed... it is pretty hard to see because they are behind the IP lines... but if you look close, you'll see them...

Here is a good cosmetic upgrade for it: Move the cable down to the lower/back part of the engine, connect from cylinders #5-1, keep the wire length between the GP's shorter, and don't use green

Shorter wires mean less heat produced (In the wires) and less voltage drop between the GP's.

If the original wires are missing or suspect, I would probably just head to the local salvage yard (u-pull-it places are great for this) and get the whole glow plug harness with relay box. The MB system works well when set up right. Less hassle in the long run.