Anyone ever replaced upper control arm bushings on w116? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

WANT '71 280SEL · #1 11-12-2003, 05:46 PM

Title says it all. When I do this job I will have it on a lift at my uncle's dealership where I work. The bushings have to be pressed in, right? How do you get the old ones out? We will probably also do the balljoints while we are at it. Springs have to come out don't they? Can you think of anything else? I have so far done tie rod ends and replaced the idler arm bolt. The old idler bolt was coming loose and wouldn't stay tight. We couldn't get the old idler bushings out. How do you people get those out? Do the control arms also have to be replaced at the same time? I'm sure we should also repack the front wheel bearings too. This is going to be one heck of a project. My uncle doesn't know if we will be able to do it since he hasn't looked to see exactly how my suspenson is set up. Are there any obstacles that we will encounter while trying to do this?
Thanks
David

BoostnBenz · #2 11-12-2003, 10:19 PM

I'm not as full of information about this as I will be a couple weeks from now. My upper CA bushings are also gone (won't even stay in place), I'm just waiting for the parts to come in. You can change the upper & lower balljoints, and upper control arm without removing the springs (the control arm is suppored by a floor jack) if you are careful. About everything else you do have to remove them. Yes I believe the bushings have to be pressed in, the old ones will probably "fall" out. Worst case scenario is you can start them on fire, while it stinks horribly that'll rid of them very quick.

I just read earlier today how somebody got a 2' long brass rod and punched one of those idler arm bushings out from top, the other they punch out from under the car with a shorter rod. What do you mean change both CAs at the same time? No you don't have to.

One thing worth mentioning is that on the upper control arms you can't get the ball joint seperately, at least the 123 can't. So I went out to the stealership today and ordered the new boots for that as they are still in good shape on top. While I'm there I'm also going to put new sway bar bushings on, it is supposed to be a big PITA for my car but I want it done so whatever it takes....

WANT '71 280SEL · #3 11-15-2003, 12:45 AM

^bump

MikeTangas · #4 11-15-2003, 01:40 AM

I suspected the upper control arms for the 116 were nearly the same as the 126. I just checked the drawing in the EPCs to confirm.

Upper control arms are a piece of cake. With the car supported, you only need to remove the upper ball joint nut, knock the joint out of the steering knuckly, remove the single bolt that secures the upper control arm to the sway bar and lastly remove the long through bolt that secures the inside end of the arm to the body. That last bolt can be access under the hood, and it might be a tight fit for a couple wrenches (it was on the 126).

Assembly of the new control arm is basically the reverse of the above. Be sure to lube the control arm to sway bar bushings with a silicone lube for squeak free operation. Also, do not tighten the inner bolts to torque spec until the front tires are on the ground.

Hope this helps.

WANT '71 280SEL · #5 11-15-2003, 10:25 AM

Where could I find the torque specs?
Thanks
David

dmorrison · #6 11-15-2003, 12:39 PM

126 upper control arm torque

Bolt for uppercontrol arm to body 80NM (59Ftlb)
Bolt for sway bar to upper contorl arm 65NM (48ftlb)
Nut to attach steering knukle to upper control arm ball joint, use a new self locking nut 40 NM (29.5ftlb)

Consider replacing the sway bar bushings since you will have it apart to get the UCA out anyway.

Dave

MikeTangas · #7 11-15-2003, 01:03 PM

Dave,

I didn't even think to point out changing the sway bar bushings, because I thought it was SOP to do so. I can guarantee when David pulls those bushings he will find them to be silver with embedded aluminum at the wear points.

David, you will need four upper control arm to sway bar bushings (2 each side).