Order for installing evap box in a W123. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dmorrison · #1 11-23-2003, 10:14 PM

I am installing and writing down the order for installing the rebuilt evaporator box back into the 1982 300TD. I have had to go back and move things while installing the box and dash equiptment so I decided to write it all down for future reference and for the forum. I am about 1/2 way thru the job. Box is in and center consol items are starting to be reattached. Below is the list I have created so far. I will update it as I go.
I am currently cleaning and repainting the instrument dash as per Dcraig's post..

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=79346&highlight=needle

Here is the list so far. Some items may not be clear reading the list. But once you have removed everything you will know everthing I am talking about. I have not connected the expansion valve to the evaporator yet, the evaporator is sealed with plastic so I figured I woul dkeep it sealed untill I have the new hoses and am about to seal and evacuate the system. Again its a 1982 300TD.

Installing evaporator box.

1. Attach drain tube to box.
2. Remove left black tube brace if still bolted to firewall.
3. Have all 3 nuts for top mounting studs ready.
4. Install box. Align heater box tubes (3) with firewall holes.
5. Mount 3 nuts at top of evaporator box.
6. Align drain tube w tranny tunnel hole.
7. Tighten 3 top nuts and bottom center support (both bolts, on top left nut make sure black vertical bar is next to the nut, not the firewall)
8. Install Vertical sections of floor heat ducts, screw to floor.
9. Install heater box support straps. Hook top into firewall, route over evap box and bolt to floor (on left side strap goes under black vertical bar)
10. Route center wires thru zip locks.
11. Route last 3 wires going to right side thru right center zip lock
12. Route same 3 wires thru far right zip lock.
13. Route ACC control wires 1-5 and vac tubes thru left zip lock
14. Isolate and use a tie on the dash light wires and acc sockets together
15. Connect left side socket with mate and mount base in hole on evap box.
16. Mount ground for lights on left side on evap box
17. Mount amps on right side
18. Install venturi tube (right side of car)
19. Connect blower motor wire harness to blower motor
20. Connect TEV wires to evap thermostat control
21. Install rubber manifold to evap box top output for center vents
22. Connect left side flex tube for driver side vent ( hold off on right tube until expansion valve and hoses are connected)
23. Install fiber optic spider at center of evap box under ACC switches.
24. Install sealing chaulk on heater tubes going thru firewall on engine side.
25. Attach 3 hoses to 3 heater tubes.

Dave
7709

PS here is the sister attachment with pictures.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123Evaporator

dmorrison · #2 11-23-2003, 10:35 PM

Why not a picture

Dave

R Leo · #3 11-24-2003, 07:16 AM

Eeeewwwww! That's sort of like law-making and sausage: now I'm not so sure I really wanted to see that sort of thing.

dmorrison · #4 12-15-2003, 08:53 PM

I will post the continuing saga of the AC rebuild as I go

Continuing the AC system installation. (use Nylog and new Orings on all hose connections and keep each section of the system sealed from outside air while assembling)
1. Install the manifold to the condenser, if using a parallel flow condenser. ( my design not Mercedes)
2. Install the condenser and check for any rubbing spots and correct.
3. Attach the oil cooler to the radiator if detached
4. Attach the radiator in the car ( I loosened the top attachment points to remove the condenser, the radiator may be removed)
5. Attach the top oil cooler line
6. Install the Receiver/Dryer (R/D) switches onto the R/D
7. Attach the R/D to condenser hose to the R/D
8. Install the R/D and attach the hose to the condenser
9. Insert the High Pressure line and Suction hose through the firewall grommet, use soapy water for ease of installation, but seal the hoses to prevent the soapy water from entering the hoses.
10. Route the HP line from the expansion valve area to the R/D and secure
11. Connect the HP line to the R/D
12. Route the Suction line from the expansion valve through the firewall and to the engine area.
13. Install the expansion valve to the evaporator and attach the HP and Suction line to it.
14. Anchor the HP and suction line with the T fitting just below the battery tray
15. Wrap the HP and suction lines with foam or sealer inside the car to prevent condensation drips.
16. Now back to the engine compartment
17. Install the hose/manifold that routes just in front of the valve cover ( I will refer to this hose as the Xhose since it crosses the engine)
18. Bolt the Xhose at the 2 attachment points.
19. Tighten the 2 Fuel filter bolts that hold the Xhose in place
20. Install the cruise actuator base
21. Install the cruise actuator and linkage
22. Attach the suction hose to the Xhose and route the suction hose properly in the engine compartment
23. Install the battery tray and battery

Dave

89578

lietuviai · #5 12-15-2003, 09:50 PM

Is it worth all that trouble to do so much work? If it took all that to have a working A/C, I'd just say the heck with it and make sure my windows worked.

Lycoming-8 · #6 12-15-2003, 11:47 PM

Much of the year, temps and humidity make it a very necessary accessory here in Okla and Texas. Maybe not so important up there where you live.

Rick Miley · #7 12-16-2003, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by lietuviai
If it took all that to have a working A/C, I'd just say the heck with it and make sure my windows worked.

Obviously, he's never been to Texas in August.

lietuviai · #8 12-16-2003, 12:58 PM

Yes I have and Arkansas as well. Muggy and hot. I spent a month around there. The car I had then had no A/C. I drove many years in the SW without any A/C, I managed. It wasn't until about 15 years ago that I bought my first car with A/C. Now I'm spoiled.

samiam4 · #9 12-16-2003, 01:08 PM

SO what did the evaporator look like when you removed it?

THe heater core? Were they relatively clean or really nasty.

Michael

dmorrison · #10 12-17-2003, 01:15 AM

samiam4

How did the evaporator look you don't really want to know..But since you asked

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=74964&highlight=evaporator

I had about 50% blockage. Maybe thats why the 123 AC system does not seem to work as well in Texas. Too much West Texas dust accumulated over the last 23 years!!

Dave

dmorrison · #11 04-05-2004, 12:36 AM

I will continue this post with the info I have for the dash installation

Installing the dash

1. Check your dash for proper operating vents, now is the time to replace them. The mount holes on the vents can break. Replace the foam temperature sensor tube now while it’s out.
2. Place the rubber diffuser for the center vents on the two center vents.
3. Slide the dash into position from the right to the left. The Service Manual calls for the steering wheel to be out, but it can be done with the wheel installed. You must tuck the front edge of the dash under the front windshield weatherstrip.
4. Position the dash so the mounting holes located in the speaker cutouts are flush against the screw receivers.
5. NOW and not later as I discovered, connect the air temp sensor wire to the sensor. It is located at the top center of the dash, inside.
6. Install the screws at the speaker hole attachment points.
7. Mount the left and right mounting brackets below the dash at the A pillar. Screw the brackets to the dash and body. The multifaceted bracket goes on the drivers’ side to also support the emergency brake assembly. Connect the rubber diffuser onto the evaporator center outflow opening now that the dash is supported.
8. Route center console wires through the center section to make sure all wires are available. Tie together to keep out of the way.
9. Install parking brake pull and chain.
10. Install light switch and bezel.
11. Install glove box insert and install glove box light.
12. Install glove box cover and adjust.
13. Install instrument cluster, attaching wire harness plug, oil pressure line, glow plug and seatbelt light sockets, both wire harness connections, then the speedometer cable.
14. Mount the center support bar. Located at the tunnel and goes up to the right center section of the dash.
15. Install the A pillar moldings.
16. Install the turn signal/cruise switch assembly which you had to loosen to remove the dash.
17. Install the floor heat tubes that go under the front carpets
18. The dash is now installed and I will follow with the center console installation.

Dave
7709

dmorrison · #12 04-05-2004, 12:39 AM

Installing the center console.

1. Clean and prepare the center console for installation, repair any broken cross members. Also clean the center tunnel area, you would be surprised at the amount of crud that collects there.
2. Install the center console with or without the carpet sections installed.
3. Slide the console down over the tunnel and center section of the lower dash. You must tilt the console, rear section high to get it under the dash center section, and under the 2 screw tabs at the top front area that the front of the console is screwed to.
4. Slide the sides down past all the seat hardware on both sides.
5. Screw the front top of the console into the dash using the 2 tabs attached to the dash.
6. Screw the rear center screw into the tunnel. The dash is now secure.
7. If you chose to not install the carpet with the console you now need to slip them into position and clip them to the console.
8. Pull all wire harnesses out through the appropriate hole.
9. Install the top panel switches into the top panel
10. Connect the harnesses for the top panel to the appropriate switches. Don’t forget the light fiberoptics. Antenna control, rear windshield wiper and washer (TD), rear defrost and rear light switches.
11. Install the top panel by sliding the top in first and snapping in the bottom.
12. Move to the center AC control section. Install the AC panel onto the black plastic panel with the 3 required screws
13. Organize all wires, install the left harness, the 4 light sockets, then the right harness onto the AC control unit.
14. Bolt the AC control panel to the center console.
15. Snap the wood onto the center AC panel.
16. Install the radio as per your individual requirements
17. Install the shift gate unit with the 3 required bolts. And of course a new bulb.
18. Arrange the wire harnesses for the window switch section.
19. While holding the center section 90 degrees to the installed position , next to the driver seat, install the left side connectors to the switches then the center section and finally the right side connections. I usually go front to rear, left to right.
20. Install the center shift wood trim panel by inserting the rear pin and then sliding it forward until positioned correctly.
21. Install the ashtray housing and connect the wire harness prior to installing. Mount with the 2 screws. Install the ashtry.
22. Install the shift knob.
23. Install the front carpets. Both sets
24. Install the drive and passenger under dash panels.

The car should now look like a car again.

I realize that I did not post the rest of the info so here it is. It is a big job and someone may need this, hopefully not me, sometime. This was my step by step method of doing the job. Any additions would be of course helpful.

It was a big job and sometimes a pain when you have to remove a section because of something you realized you forgot.

Hope this helps you guys out there.

Dave

Brad123D · #13 04-05-2004, 01:16 AM

Dave,

Excellent job you did here ! A truly worthwhile thread that you obviously put alot of effort into. Well done !

dmorrison · #14 05-28-2004, 12:22 AM

One additional post to further complete this item.

I charge the system, and I knew there was a reason I use R134a initianally. I had the schrader valve in the low side fail when I removed the hose. Lost all the R134a. Glad that wasn't $100 worth of R12.
Also had a leak at one fitting. Tighten it installed the oil I lost and charged it with R134A again. So far the cars AC has been running very well. I charged to the point that the vent temp stopped dropping. I'll see when it gets above 100 degrees if the charge is correct.
So far the car has been very comfortable.
I'll keep you posted this summer.

Dave
7709