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#1
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Engine/Trans Removal Tips?
My plan is to pull the engine/tranny from my '80 300SD tomorrow. I've pulled plenty of drivetrains in my day, but never an MB diesel. Any special tips for doing the job easily?
My plan is to remove the radiator, fan, alternator, A/C compressor (the PS pump is already off). The cyl head is already off as well. Then I plan to unbolt the engine from the engine mounts, and remove the tranny crossmember and trans-to-crossmember bolts. (One question - how does the shifter work- is it a mechanical linkage, or cable operated). Then I'll hook up my cherry picker and engine tilter, and commence hoisting, shoving, and cussing. Any other advice? Should I remove the IP pump before pulling the engine? Steve M. |
#2
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Steve:
Drain tranny fluid first, or it will pour out the hole for the speedo cable. Shift linkage is a rod and clip, easy. Probably need a new Viton bushing in the hole, too. Unplug the starter inhibitor switch and take the kickdown wire off, too, or you will tear the wiring harness. Drop the center bearing on the driveshaft and loosen the lock nut so that you can push the front part together after you take the front flex disk out. Mark the flex disk so that it goes back in the same relative position on the tranny. Once you've got it all loose, raise the engine off the mounts and then start tilting as you raise it. Keep the tailshaft off the ground, and watch that you don't snag the steering damper on the bell housing. Keep tilting until you get to 45 degrees and raise until the front sump will go over the radiator support, then push the car back as you raise the tranny back up. I advise against moving the hoist, you've got about 1000 lbs hanging up there! Once the engine is free of the body, lower it to the floor and remove the transmission, then move to wherever you're going with it. Don't move the hoist until you have the engine need floor level. Going back in is the reverse -- lift engine, push car under hoist, tilt transmission down and feed uder the firewall as you reach 45 degrees. Once you have the sump over the radiator support, raise the rear of the tranny back up as you lower engine. If you have a real tilter, this is easy. Just by hanging on the engine, it's a pain. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
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Thanks for the tips.
Good information there, especially about the driveshaft and wiring harness.
Yes, I have a "real" tilter. It's one of those tools I bought for a previous engine swap, and now wonder how I ever got along without one. I'm also looking forward to getting under the hood and giving the sheet metal a good power-washing. Steve. |
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