Knock Gone.. new issues arise... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

coachgeo · #1 01-01-2004, 02:44 PM

As usual Saga's dont go away.... they just take on new paths.

Ok.... if you dont know the story. Bought for $650 a knocking (nailing?) 1983 300D that otherwise seems to be in a little worn shape but not bad. 197,000 miles. Have oil change records from 1998 - 2000 in Rhine GA. Cant find the business via information. Milage from Last oil change in 2000 and now is little less than 1,000 miles.

pressure washed engine and tranny somewhat.

Removed, cleaned, reinstalled; Injectors and New injector return lines. Very short Italian test drive done (couple miles)

TADAAAAAAAA no more nailing .

(Dance litte jig in a circle and rejoice on success of first symptom healed.

okkkk sooo now I'll do a search of the archives and look forward to hints from yall about things below)

Injector #4 is leaking diesel. Could have been before... could be new. Could be injector, could be return, line could be??? looking for hints!

Valve cover gasket leaks good. Will fix along with a valve adjustment and a peak at timing chain stretch. Suggestions would be appreciated.

need to replace oil cooler hose. Its got oil on it already

either exhaust leak or burning oil under hood, maybe both. Suggestions would be appreciated

Rear shocks need replacing. Car floats like cloud nine.....teen. The turbulant cloud. Nine's Cousin I think. A test bounce of the rear of the car shows the need to replace them as very obvious. Suggestions would be appreciated.

Modulation/pulsing in brake pedal and the brake light is on. Fluid level is below full but not at minimum. Suggestions would be appreciated.

Slight hard shift, Sunroof moved a smigen more closed when I played with button... no more movement since. 3 windows work. (Passenger rear does not). I suspect all vaccum related Suggestions would be appreciated.

Good news.... ANTENA WORKS LOL j/k

Other little things for later post. Again I will do a search of the archives also.

PS anyone got a spare car with the piece that the glove box latch catches onto. It is plastic and screws to the top of the inside of the glove box. The latch on the door slips behind it to hold the door shut. Also need pieces to repair the driver door open mechanism. Just the parts you pull to open the door. I'll of course look for junkers around here too.

engatwork · #2 01-01-2004, 02:56 PM

Coach - you shoulda stopped by - I don't live very far from Rhine. The Cap'n lives closer still

.

The first thing I would do would be to pull the tires/wheels off and inspect the brakes to see what is going on. The light being on tells you that the pads are down to a minimum. No telling how long it has been going like that. If a very long time you may have some major brake work ahead of you.

How do you like the weather in PC so far

?

E320Coup · #3 01-01-2004, 02:59 PM

Looking to learn a little about many of the same concerns you are having- BUT- I do have a tid bit for you...

Try opening the door where the window does not operate and then try window switch. I have had to solder splice the window control wires inside the rubber conduit before. All the opening and closing, after years, will break those wires, causing an "open" or even a short to ground.

But opening and closing the door several times may give you a quick fix in a jam- Could also be the switch on your shift console. They are chronic in that vintage.

Good luck with the rest!

coachgeo · #4 01-01-2004, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by engatwork
Coach - you shoulda stopped by - I don't live very far from Rhine. The Cap'n lives closer still.

...
How do you like the weather in PC so far?

I was not in Rhine. The car was. The oil change service tickets are from "Anderson's Service station" Rhine GA. Was trying to contact them to see if they new anything more about the car. Phone Information could not find them by that name. A google search found nothing either.

If either of you two wish to play a little detective for me in Rhine GA. let me know.

PC weather. It just takes getting use to "AGAIN". I was raised here. Came home to take care of my folks. The weather has good points and bad points like anywhere. Like

"No pretty snow"... but then again.....

"No snow" to shovel, turn to mush... salted roads etc. ! LOL

coachgeo · #5 01-01-2004, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by engatwork
... The light being on tells you that the pads are down to a minimum. No telling how long it has been going like that. ...

luckly it blicked on and off and I didn't hear the sqgruapppping sound of metal brake piston to rotor.

Hatterasguy · #6 01-01-2004, 04:04 PM

"Milage from Last oil change in 2000 and now is little less than 1,000 miles."
I would change the oil. 4 year old oil probably has water in it.

coachgeo · #7 01-01-2004, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Hatterasguy
"Milage from Last oil change in 2000 and now is little less than 1,000 miles."
I would change the oil. 4 year old oil probably has water in it.

oil looks good but I agree with ya.

BoostnBenz · #8 01-01-2004, 04:16 PM

Well I guess it depends on where you see it when they leak around the top it should be obvious a return line leak can be triggered by the slightest imperfection in the barb that the hose goes on. Replace the bypass hoses on principle, 1yd ought to suffice.

Only two suggestions for the camshaft cover leak and valve adjustment clean off any oil on the head surface for the new seal to seal on. This is the way a lot of the rubber things work if they aren't cleaned they won't seal. Run the car fairly hard before doing the actual adjustment, cleans out any carbon. Let car set a while to get back to room temperature and go off of those values.

There was recently a thread about the oil cooler hose, the links in it should help with that.

It probably is oil burning if your valve cover leaks, fix that first then worry about the burning later.

It is a pretty easy swap on the shocks, the springs don't have to be removed or anything.

Always bleed the whole brake system as who knows how old the fluid is, the older it gets the more contaminated with brake line components it gets. It sounds to me like warped rotors and perhaps time for new pads (remember to get sensors & antisqueal paste to).

Windows and sunroof aren't vacuum related both have individual motors. The sunroof's is in the trunk and can be manually opened after removing the black panel on the driver's side, perhaps a good cleaning is in order here. As for the window I'd start by cleaning all the contacts off at the switches and using die-electric grease, then look into a broken wire.

coachgeo · #9 01-01-2004, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by dieseldiehard
The brake discs are probably warped. Do not use metallic pads, they overheat the discs which then warp, use the softer material.
And do not overtorque the wheel lugs, I've seen lugs with the threads stripped because tires shops jam them on with air drive set to max torque! The discs are cheap enough that replacement is in order if they are the cause of the pedal modulation and don't bother turning them.
DDH

Yowza..... four rotors... didnt know it didnt have rear drum brakes. How do I determine which are warped and which are turnable? two rotors at 60 buks beats four rotors at around 120 buks

BoostnBenz · #10 01-01-2004, 04:21 PM

I don't think you know unless you mic them for size. It seems like the spec on that is on the inside of the rotor. They actually have both drum and disc in back. The inside is a drum for the emergency brake, outside a disc for the normal brakes.

psfred · #11 01-01-2004, 09:11 PM

Can't turn MB rotors, so if they are warped or too thin, toss and get new. Rears are like $25 each, fronts $40 or $60, depending upon if they have vent slots or not.

If they show a distinct lip at the outer edge were the pad doesn't cover, they are too thin and need to go. If you just put new pads in, they will jam on the spring eventually and stick the pistons in the calipers, more work.

Sadly, everyone with an older benz they are "tired of spending money on" lets the brakes go to hell. Very scary.

Verify that the overflow lines aren't leaking before jumping on an injector. You might want to open the cap nut and re-tighten with the engine running, too -- that will flush any crud under the cap nut out. If it is actually leaking, someone has taken it apart and it didn't seal properly. To fix that, remove the injector (deep 27 mm socket from Sears) and put it in a vise so you can unscrew the top part. Take it apart, flush with solvent, and reassemble -- it's got something in the sealing surface. No copper seals, just precision steel contact surface. We found some red lint in the one on my brother's car that leaked.

Probably the overflow line, though. If the old lines were hard, make sure you got all the bits off the nipple -- I've seen that stuff as hard and brittle as glass, and a small ring of it will cut the new line. Don't use substitutes, either -- unless you can find actual diesel fuel line in that size, nothing else seems to last long.

Sunroof is a "simple" one, I believer (no tilt, just back and forth), travel is limited by torque load. If the motor runs, it needs lubrication (use MB paste), if the motor doesn't run, check the fuse-- in fact, probably a good idea to replace all the fuses, they get old and corrode.

Peter

P.E.Haiges · #12 01-01-2004, 10:29 PM

Coachgeo,

Power Windows and Sliding Roof and not affected by vacuum, they are all electrically operated.

If you have a dial indicator, you can check the warpage of the brake rotors by putting the indicator against the rotor and turning the rotor. However, I don't know what a passing measurement would be. If you find that one has a lot of warpage, you should replace it and the one on the opposite side. You might only need front or rear ones, not all four.

P E H

BoostnBenz · #13 01-02-2004, 12:22 AM

While I don't know the value off had I know MB lists that value in their factory manual. I only remember this because I thought it was quite interesting that they suggested testing brand new rotors for trueness.

coachgeo · #14 01-02-2004, 12:24 AM

Thanks for the replys.

RE: Injectors
Some of ya missed this part in the first post so as a reminder: Injectors were- removed, dissasembled, cleaned, reassembled then reinstalled. Also the Injection return lines are brand new 2.5mm ID cloth covered MB line. This combination is what cured the nailing, I'm sure.

Note- no mix matching of internal injector parts occured. All Heat shields were removed and cleaned as well. So was the surface below the heat shield. I wiped this area out as best as I could. I'm 99.9% sure all heat shields went back in correct face up too. Matching injectors and heat shields went back above same prechambers.

RE: Sunroof/windows
Glad to hear they are full elec. .... I think? LOL Actually I thought they were vaccum opperated switches on elec. motors or something of that nature after reading all the vaccum nightmares talked about on here. So I guess it is only the locks and tranny that are vaccum right?

Joy stick?

One of the gizmo's between the seats on the consule is a joy stick sorta thing. Is this an adjuster for passenger side mirror or is there a hidden Nintendo in this thing somewhere? Where is the screen? Could there be a James Bond gizmo I have yet to discover? A 50cal machine gun aimed via the joy stick? Where is the site?

BoostnBenz · #15 01-02-2004, 12:40 AM

Truly the heatshields should be replaced rather than just cleaned.

Well changing the return hoses may have started a leak if you scored the barb while using a razor to slice the hose in order to get it off.

Dash controls are all vacuum as well.

Yes that is for the passenger side mirror.