87 300D's signs of old age - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

MBDFahrer · #1 01-06-2004, 04:01 AM

Recently my 87 300D has been plagued by bad luck and revealing alot of its old age issues.

1. 12/21/03 - I got into a minor car accident with a Chevy silverado. It damaged the hood, upper radiator support, and the grill. The hood has been replaced (much needed), the upper radiator support only moved about 1-2 mm, and the grill was repaired.

2. 1/1/04 - Lets start the new year off with a knock. Ever since the new year, my steering wheel would knock when turned from going straight to the 10 o'clock position or to the 2 o'clock position. It would occur more often when turned to the right than to the left. Is this a hint to future problems?

3. 1/5/04 - This really isn't a big issue, but its still an issue. My LCD that displays the outside temperature under the speedo is shot, I wanted to remove it and find the part number but can't even get the gauge cluster out. I used home made gauge removal tools and would get it out just a little, But it would slowly sink back in.

4 1/6/04 - Today my friend played around with my sunroof since he just found out I had one. He opened it only 2 inches but we heard a squeak, followed by a few more. I didn't want to find out what else would happen so I closed it. To my amazement, the headliner on the roof came off, The roof closed, but the liner just sat there. Since I'm thinking about servicing my roof anyways, I decided to remove it completely. Before the headliner came off, I felt a screw that wasn't in its place and was just sitting on the liner. I carefully removed it, but didn't find the screw, is it important that I find it?

5. Vacuum leak in the system is causing the transmission to shift harshly from: P - R, N - D, 2 - 3, and sometimes it skips gear 3 and goes straight to 4 when going up a hill from a stop. I've tried disconnecting the Emission Control System (ECS) but it was only better for a few hours. Not knowing how legal it is to do that, I decided to rehook it up since the shift quality didn't improve by much. There's also a black line that isn't connected behind the driver side firewall. What is this black line connected to? If anyone has information on this in particular, it would be highly appreciated. Or if someone has a vacuum schematic, it would be really nice.

6 Final issue, does anyone know a good source for sunroof parts and original mercedes vacuum lines? I would like to redo the old and brittle lines with newer ones.

I know this post has been long, its tough typing it up too, but I wanted to cover as much as I can in one post. Thanks to all of those that managed to finish reading it. And definetly thanks to those who can reply to this.

Jason

Lycoming-8 · #2 01-07-2004, 01:02 AM

As far as the gauge cluster goes, it is held back by an electrical cable, the oil pressure line, and the speedo cable. Each one will have to be dealt with before you can completely remove the cluster. Do some searches here and you will find many answers to these problems in previous postings.

'87s may have an electric speedo, so there may only be two things holding it back.

gsxr · #3 01-07-2004, 03:48 PM

Hi there,

1- Bummer!

2- Not sure.

3- The instrument cluster can be hard to pull out when it's been in place for years. Keep working at it with bigger pull hooks, I use cut-up wire coat hangers. Eventually it will wiggle free. Try to get a used LCD display, new ones are expensive - $300 I think?

4- The sunroof is not really a DIY repair. Many horror stories abound, usually ending with the car at the dealership (who have special tools for it), and a repair bill over $1k.

5- The black lines are vent lines to the passenger compartment. They're not supposed to connect to anything. There are a lot of vacuum lines in the tranny circuit, make sure you check ALL of them, including the rubber fittings under the BFS (Blue Flying Saucer). Last two items would be the modulator on the tranny, and the signal generator on the side of the injection pump. If the trans fluid & filter has not been changed in the past 30kmi, it's overdue (don't forget to drain the converter too). Schematics are in the factory service manuals, and please don't tell me you're attempting to work on this car without them!

6- FastLane, who sponsor this forum, can get whatever you need. Alternately call Rusty (800-741-5252) at ***************. For a list of vacuum lines and fittings, read this:

http://engine.mbzarticles.org/diesel/hoses/

7- Leave the emissions crap disabled!!! Please!!! See photos:

http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/W124_stuff/smog_lines_plugged.jpg

http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/W124_stuff/smog_solenoids.jpg

And for lots of photos of my 1987 300D's, upgrade & repair projects, etc go here:

http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/

MBDFahrer · #4 01-08-2004, 02:15 AM

Thanks for replying dave and Lycoming-8, and yes, I don't have have any literature on how to repair this vehicle. My dad never bothered to invest in any. We've worked on his W123 all along like this. This is a different car and all, and alot more modern, so I guess I should invest in one.

As for the emissions controls, is it legal to disconnect the ECS? Since I am in california and all. Don't wanna get caught without it.

By the way, you are my idol, everytime i see a picture of your engine bay, it being so clean and all, it makes me want to work harder to get mine looking the same.

And if possible, is anyone willing to share the wealth? I would like a Service CD but can't afford one at retail price of $150 +

THanks,
Jason

fahrgewehr2 · #5 01-08-2004, 02:19 AM

Buy the cd off ebay for $20.00 like I did. Problem solved. There is a ton of good info in it, even if a good amount is over the head of the beginner (like myself).

Good luck.

gsxr · #6 01-08-2004, 11:29 AM

Ouch - yes, you definitely need the factory CD-ROM. Try eBay firts, the bootleg copies are generally about $20 like fahrgewehr2 said. The CD's are a pain to use compared to printed manuals, but the paper stuff is not available except on eBay, and they are *expensive*! If you have no luck there, drop me an email.

Disconnecting the EGR and ARV (emissions junk) is technically illegal, but there is no smog check for diesel cars in CA yet, so you're OK to disable them for now. The simple/invisible way is to stick a "BB" into the two small vacuum lines out of the 4-way splitter near the radiator fan, which are plugged with yellow caps in my photo. I yanked all that junk but saved it, in case future regulations require me to re-install it. You may pick up some power and MPG by disabling that junk. I assume you already have the trap oxidizer recall done.

Oh, btw, the engine bay was almost that clean when I bought the car! I pressure wash it now & then but that's about it. Keeping leaks to a minimum (and fixed right away) helps a lot, also having both plastic sound panels under the car also helps keep things clean. During the head gasket job I did clean a lot with WD-40 and rags, while everything was torn apart.

JHZR2 · #7 01-08-2004, 11:40 AM

#2:
I get the same thing in my w123, and itll happen in both diretions. Sometimes itll knock twice now

I had the dealer look at it, and was told my guide rod mounts need replacement to the cost of about $590.
I recall reading of a similar knock when the front swaybar bushings are shot.

Granted these solutions are for the w123, but I cant imagine the suspension is that different on the w124.

JMH

gsxr · #8 01-08-2004, 12:04 PM

JMH,

Actually, the 124 suspension is 99% different. About the only thing the same is they both use lower ball joints and have a sway bar. Really, they are THAT different! The 124 suspension is simple and easy to work on (IMO) while the 123 is a real pain. I did a full 123 front end rebuild last year and it made me appreciate the 124's simplicity.

Anyway, guide rod mounts are about $60 each plus a couple hours labor. How in the world does that turn into nearly $600, even with an alignment? Wowsers. You can do the job yourself, it's not easy, but possible. Mine were TOTALLY shot - I bet yours are too, they don't normally last beyond 200kmi!

Oh yeah - 124 suspension noises can be sway bar bushings or ball joints, but that's usually in a straight line over bumps or while braking. Turning the wheel, I dunno, maybe idler arm? Need to have someone help listen while you turn the wheel (or vice-versa).

MBDFahrer · #9 01-08-2004, 10:30 PM

Thanks everyone for more replies.

Dave, i'll get rid of the emissions stuff tomorrow when i'm at my friend's house. His dad is my hero, he's a german car mechanic

! Right now he has a 93 300CE and a 91 300E from clients. One of them is doing suspension job, so i'll just look off that as a guide (probably knocking also?). As for the emissions controls, I did have them disconnected for a while. But not knowing how smart it was, i wired it back up. I notice a difference already, this tank of fuel got the first half with the same fuel economy (220 miles) but the last half is where I reconnected them and only got 380 with a quarter left, ususally i'm at 400! While i'm at it tomorrow, i'm going to fix my wild fuel gauge also (bad sender unit).

As for the hood, I got my new one installed, but the left side is too close to the windshield, maybe 2 cm from touching, the sunroof works like a charm without the liner, just doesn't pop up the back, i disconnected the black line, I'll leave the gauge cluster alone until I can find that screen and I think i'll get my fluids done tomorrow while I'm at my friends house.

By the way, Dave, sorry about your white 300D, that's very sad

a truck almost did the same to me today, if he did, I would've been pushed off the road and pretty much into a concrete wall.

I will also try and find a repair manual on ebay.

Until the next post, drive safely