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#1
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Low end power issues--240D lovers your welcome
I have deleted my previous post at the request of a couple of members.
Thank you rick for your reply. "Well, I was really hoping you'd either delete this thread or let it die. But since you refuse to do so, here goes. Good high end power rules out clogged fuel filters. Chriping the tires on the 1-2 shift means you're getting extra fuel along with boost, so we can rule out plugged banjo bolt or pressure line to the ALDA. What you want is more fuel between idle and the point where boost comes on, and that's what the ALDA mod does. Of course, as gsxr has pointed out numerous times, the correct solution is to have the pump calibrated at a diesel injection shop, or else shim the ALDA from underneath. But the cheap and easy route that most people end up taking is to simply loosen the lock nut and turn the center shaft counterclockwise a bit. The only other thing I can think of before messing with the ALDA is to make sure the linkage is adjusted properly so that the final pivot arm reaches within 1mm of the stop. (Edit) Since you removed the vacuum supply to the EGR (I assume for off-road testing purposes), you'll want to make sure the EGR valve is indeed closed. It could be stuck in the open position, which would be a bad thing." Q: How do I check my EGR being open?
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RT 1984 300D---Sold 1995 E420 - 106K - Brilliant Silver Metallic/Orion Gray --- Sold 1984 300SD - 151K Manganese Brown Metallic/Mostly Black --- Sold 1982 240D - 79K - Manila Beige/Palomino---Sold |
#2
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That's hilarious! You know we were kidding, right? That's what the means.
Anyway, you'll have to get the intake tract apart enough so you can see the EGR valve. Once there you might want to apply vacuum via a MityVac to watch it open and close. The just make sure it closes tight. Sorry I can't be more detailed about how to get to it - my 240D doesn't have one. (edit) Hey, you quoted me above, but the is missing. Was it not there in the previous thread? If not, I meant to put one in. Really, I did.
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#3
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Thanks rick----I will try what you suggested---I just cut and pasted your first reply so I'm not sure if the winking face was there or not.
I am worried about adjusting the alda because I do get some black smoke under heavy load. MPG isn't so swell either at under 20. Sounding like injenction pump problems? How much to calibrate? I guess I can always adjust the alda back to where it was with no harm done unless I break it. So... 1st step=check EGR make sure it is not stuck open. Step 2: Adjust ALDA CCW correct?
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RT 1984 300D---Sold 1995 E420 - 106K - Brilliant Silver Metallic/Orion Gray --- Sold 1984 300SD - 151K Manganese Brown Metallic/Mostly Black --- Sold 1982 240D - 79K - Manila Beige/Palomino---Sold |
#4
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Yes.
Actually, if I remember correctly, the heavy smoke and poor mileage might be caused by a stuck open EGR. Searching here might confirm that. I'm about to jump in the TDI for the 35 mile commute home. Good luck.
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#5
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Well I got the EGR off and applied vaccum to the valve and watched it open up. When vaccum was removed it went down with a noticeable "thlump". So sounds like it is operating correctly. I've enclosed a pic of it turned around.
I was all set to adjust the alda, but couldn't get the black cover off and didn't want to force it. I have read a lot of posts about it, and it just seems to be something I should hold off on. I did some clockings from 0-60 today. 0-20----6secs 0-40----13 secs 0-60----18 secs Not the most scientific experiment, but a general idea.
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RT 1984 300D---Sold 1995 E420 - 106K - Brilliant Silver Metallic/Orion Gray --- Sold 1984 300SD - 151K Manganese Brown Metallic/Mostly Black --- Sold 1982 240D - 79K - Manila Beige/Palomino---Sold |
#6
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So I'm not sure where to go from here. Valve adjustments and injection timing seem to be beyond my skill level.
It just acts bogged down.
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RT 1984 300D---Sold 1995 E420 - 106K - Brilliant Silver Metallic/Orion Gray --- Sold 1984 300SD - 151K Manganese Brown Metallic/Mostly Black --- Sold 1982 240D - 79K - Manila Beige/Palomino---Sold Last edited by 1stimer; 01-21-2004 at 01:46 AM. |
#7
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Ok well I think I am gonna try the alsa adjustment unless someone chimes in and talks me out of it.
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RT 1984 300D---Sold 1995 E420 - 106K - Brilliant Silver Metallic/Orion Gray --- Sold 1984 300SD - 151K Manganese Brown Metallic/Mostly Black --- Sold 1982 240D - 79K - Manila Beige/Palomino---Sold |
#8
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Let er rip.
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#9
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somewhat against my better judgement I adjusted the alda today. About 3/4 turn ccw. It had never been adjusted before. Much nicer off the line. I don't have to worry about making it through lights anymore. I just hope I'm not masking a deeper problem. Thanks to all on the forum. Now on to that hissing/whining sound.
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RT 1984 300D---Sold 1995 E420 - 106K - Brilliant Silver Metallic/Orion Gray --- Sold 1984 300SD - 151K Manganese Brown Metallic/Mostly Black --- Sold 1982 240D - 79K - Manila Beige/Palomino---Sold |
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