i managed to replace the old style primer pump with the new style using vise grips. not the most fun thing to do but i did it.

now the car won't shut off. i had to disconnect some of the vacuum lines but now they are all back on and still no joy. i'm gonna take a little break before tackling this problem. i might break something else. i tend to break more things when i'm pissed off.

i am learning that it is natural to learn via trial and error when doing these things. it's just irritating sometimes.

what is the logical starting point to look for this problem? help!

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Jennifer
90 350sdl

I think that is the way it's supposed to be when we work on our own cars. My dad always said that my older brother and I could tear up an anvil with a rubber hammer.

Kevin

No need to be irritated you just got a vacuum leak. You will need to inspect the tubing and fittings real good to find it. If you have a MightyVac just disconnect the small lines coming off of the vacuum supply line to the brake booster and start testing each circuit. You will probably find one of those fitting broken somewhere. You can purchase various sizes/types of vacuum fittings from AutoZone or Advance to make repairs as required.

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Jim

Since these cars are all 20+ years old, sometimes the plastic vacuum lines themselves get really brittle. When you're leaning on them trying to fix something else they can crack or break without you knowing it. The MityVac is the easiest way to check but if you don't have one available start by looking at the plastic vacuum lines and the rubber attachments really closely. If you find a broken line a quick fix is reattaching the line at the break with rubber vacuum hose. If you push the two halves of the old plastic line together inside the rubber "connector" it holds them tightly together and won't collapse under vacuum.

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LRG
1987 300D Turbo 175K
2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul
1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold

This seems to be the Mercedes DIYer moto... happens to me all the time. Maybe if you try intentionally breaking something, something that's already broken will fix itself.

originally posted by VeeDubTDI

Its kind of like brushing your teeth. Trial and error learns ya to brush twice daily.....

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1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

Anyone who owns a W123 has no excuse for not owning a MityVac. They should come as standard equipment with the car.

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Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Jen,
After you chill, go back and look at all the rubber junctions...wiggle them a bit and I'll bet you find one that's cracked.

FWIW, I keep the a few of the three and four junction ones 'in inventory' here at Area 51. Having two 20+ yo vechicles that rely on vacuum means I'm always sticking a new one on somewhere.

Next time you order parts add a few to the order.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Jen - What R Leo said.

Also check to make sure you got them hooked up correctly.
Your Mitivac, hooked directly to the shutoff actuator, should tell you if it is the problem. It's now the weekend. Any luck?

unkl300d - I don't have to worry about dental maintenance. I just UPS 'em in for work.

Cheers,
Wes

Hello Everyone
I can not afford to do the job 2 or 3 times.
Cost benefit analysis says:
Replace all vacuum hose and T on the 20 year old car at first opportunity.
A roll or two of hose and enough Ts to do the entire car is cheap, at least it is when compared with time loss or elevated blood pressure.
With caution and patience; the R&R is a one weekend permanent fix.
I use a razor to cut off one hose at a time; and keep 20 rolls of electrical tape and 500 zip ties in stock at home, all the time, just for jobs like this.
Use a straight union and tape to join the old and new hose; pull the old hose out and the new one in at the same time.
Then all you need to diagnose in the future is vacuum motors and switches.
The aftermarket hose should be good for 10 years.
Have a great day.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

Hey I don't have one but I have no excuse other than it looks like all my vacuum junk still works OK, at least up until I made this post.
I agree. Sometimes no matter how hard you try to work carefully on an old car, something else gets broken or stripped in the process. At least if you break something while working in the garage, you can fix it with the tools you needand it won't be something that goes out on you on the road 20 miles from home.

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012