Right Rear window stopped working. Pulled the panel off and found this (see pix).

Is that broken piece in the slide what replaced is in the 'window reg. repair kit'?

Seems like I read something about having to remove the reg. assembly and remove the broken off rivet in order to install the new piece. This sound correct?

Also, while I'm in the door, is there anything else I should replace vacuum related, just to head off any future problems?

Chris
'85 300SD

Attached Thumbnails

 

Aww....c'mon guys. SOMEBODY has to of dealt with this before :p

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Chris
1985 300SD - 'Grace' (198K mi.)
2018 Honda Civic Sport
2018 Honda CRV LX
2010 Honda Fit Sport (RIP)
2013 Honda Accord Sport (Sold)
1996 Lexus LS400 (Retired)
1995 Ford Contour SE (Retired)
1976 Porsche 914 (Sold)
1972 Datsun 240Z (RIP)

That's indeed the infamous "sliding jaw". Remove the regulator to "peen" in a new one.

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The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

ive done both my rear windows. the regulator goes up and down so much that it stresses out the bolts that holds it in place. and the torque causes the regulator itself to warp a bit. it happened so much so, that when i lowered my rear window it shattered. really all you can do is buy a new regulator and replace the old one. it's worth it though, in my opinion if you plan on keeping the car. the rear ones are much easier than teh front ones.

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1995 E320 Sportline Wagon "Bernard"
black on black leather

http://i.imgur.com/BdZ7jM3.png

First, thnx for the confirmation.

Secondly, how can I tell if my reg. is warped?
I'd hate to spend over $100 for a reg. when I don't actually _need_ it.

Chris
'85 300SD

A very common problem in Mercedes. We don't get in there and grease the rail/slide assembly to prevent stress on the plastic parts.
The unit is called a Regulator Guide jaw.
Fastlane has them $2-3. So does the dealer.

Remove the regulator. And you will have to drill out the old rivit that held the slide into the regulator.
Now make a small anvil to peen the new rivet against so you don't brake the new plastic slide. Take a few minutes to figure out what I'm talking about. A helper is almost a must in this job. Someone to hold the regulator while you peen the rivet of the new slide.
You will have to insert the slide into the regulator hole. Hold the two items together firmly. Place the base of the rivet on the "anvil" and use a small hammer to pen the rivet over.
The "anvil" I made out of a bolt that had the same diameter as the rivet head. Inserted it into my vise and went at it.
Lube the slide and rail on the window and install the regulator.
Should work for another 20 years.

I have to do this on my Daughters car. One of her windows is broken.

Dave

PS make sure you get the pieces out of the bottom of the door or it may rattle on you.
Also make sure you tape the water shield so it is secure. Otherwise water will warp the back of your door panel.

PPS. Make sure the rail at the bottom of the window has not been damaged. I had to file some rough spots on the rail to get the slide to move smoothly. The rail may or maynot have been damaged by the regulator lever arm. Check the rail and smooth any rough spots out.

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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

i just removed my regulator from my right rear window....i managed to get the rivet out by drilling through the middle of the rivet on the short side(maybe my first mistake, im not sure) then i took a peen?(screwdriver type thing that just goes to a point at the end)and knocked the old rivet out with a hammer...when i went to put in the new rivet,it just went right in, and was a little loose fitting in the hole....and its in just as deep as the old one was...so my question is this...im sure you guys had to knock in the new rivet for a tight fit, did i do something wrong?

when i took out the old rivet,i pushed it out the opposite way that it was put in,meaning i hit it from the short side that faces you when its in the car....should i have cut off the bigger piece on the other side and pushed it out the same way it was put in? i hate when i get halfway done with something and it all goes to crap

any advice would be appreciated,thanks

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1985 300SD 192,000miles...Astral silver/ Grey MbTex

1983 300D 194,000miles...White/Tan MbTex...my newest addiction

the car is an 85 300SD,btw.....also if anyones wondering,i pretty sure i didnt make the regulator hole any bigger than it was, my drill bit never got down that far

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1985 300SD 192,000miles...Astral silver/ Grey MbTex

1983 300D 194,000miles...White/Tan MbTex...my newest addiction

Now you "peen" the end of the rivet to "mushroom" it so it stays in the hole.Peening is a bunch of taps from a ballpeen hammer that will deform the metal of the rivet, mushrooming it over a bit. Follow Dave's directions above, particularly in regards to the use of an "anvil" to protect the plastic.

__________________
The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)