Just got done replacing that little teflon rectangular peice that goes in the slide at the bottom of the window....

Now, I noticed for the first time while rolling the window up that it appears to go up TOO far and actually causes some flexing of the door-window top piece (forget what's called).

This woud seem to answer the issue I've had with a small amount of wind noise coming from that window...I've noticed that rolling it down just slightly causes the noise to go away.

So, I suspect that the extra movement upwards is flexing the top part of the door channel and allowing for air to seep in.

In any case, is there a way to adjust how far up the window goes? AND, how does the motor know when to stop going up? (or does it NOT know and just runs out of steam when it hits the limit and keeps trying)?

__________________
Chris
1985 300SD - 'Grace' (198K mi.)
2018 Honda Civic Sport
2018 Honda CRV LX
2010 Honda Fit Sport (RIP)
2013 Honda Accord Sport (Sold)
1996 Lexus LS400 (Retired)
1995 Ford Contour SE (Retired)
1976 Porsche 914 (Sold)
1972 Datsun 240Z (RIP)

Get back up there!

No, the window goes up until the motor stalls.

You probably have a bad window channel -- if it's split, running the window all the way up causes an opening to appear, lowering it slightly seals it better.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Peter,

First, thnx for the response.

Secondly, what part of the window channel being *bad* would cause this and what exactly do you mean by "bad"?

__________________
Chris
1985 300SD - 'Grace' (198K mi.)
2018 Honda Civic Sport
2018 Honda CRV LX
2010 Honda Fit Sport (RIP)
2013 Honda Accord Sport (Sold)
1996 Lexus LS400 (Retired)
1995 Ford Contour SE (Retired)
1976 Porsche 914 (Sold)
1972 Datsun 240Z (RIP)

The window channel is a square section insert -- metal back, rubber or rubberized fabric sides, covered in a felt like material. If the sides have separated from the back, or the back has broken at the corner, the window will cause the center section to lift away from the rest of the channel, and give you a slot.

I cannot believe the door has actually split, MB window frames are pretty tough.

What part is moving when you close the window all the way -- the black "stuff" that the window rides in?

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Peter,

The _part_ that is flexing is the entire frame peice that makes up the upper part of the door. If I roll the window up with the door OPEN, I can watch the top part of the door frame twitch/flex. I opened another door and rolled the window up to see if this behavior was repeatable/normal. Didn't happen on the other door.

So, I've just concluded that this behavior is because the window it trying to go up further than it's suppose to.

One of the welds in the window frame is bad. No flex of anything in the window frame is acceptable.

Is the whole thing moving or just the top part?

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

CK42

Did you ever learn how to restrict the upward movement of your window? I'm trying to do the same thing on a 300ce.

Thanks
Jorg

Jorg:

Nope...I needed/wanted to get the door panel back on and just decided to leave it for another day
Nothing is broken, it's just that I'm concerned that the apparent excess upward window travel may have contributed to the actual breakage of the plastic guide piece. I guess worst case, it ends up breaking again in another 20 years

Chris
'85 300SD

I'm no expert, but I think it is normal to flex a bit, and it is the topping out of the window that shuts off the motor, even if you keep holding the button. Just replaced the motor in an SD, don't know if that transfers across models...

The problem with the CE is that there is no top of the window (has no window frame) so something else must stop the motor. I've looked for some kind of travel stop but didn't see any.

Jorg

Jorg,

I imagine that a 'hard' stop might be incorporated in the design of the regulator itself...meaning that as the regulator moves, it finally contacts another section of the regulator at the same time that the window should be in the fully upward position.
If you can look at the regulator while it's moving, I suspect you should be able to see something like this happening.

Chris
'85 300SD

If that is the case then I would have to lower the regulator to reduce the upward travel. I did see where an arm for the scissors lift (for lack of the proper term) bolts to the door frame. It looks like there may be some adjustment there. I'll check it out tonight.

Jorg