Did you remember to plug the vac line going to the auto tranny? I forgot to do that on my 190D 5 speed swap and it wouldn't shut off with key. Plugged it and all good. Nice Job!

Thanks Pete! I did plug the vac line going to the transmission. It stopped "dieseling" on its own. Not sure why it did that, seems to be fine now.

The hissing is definitely coming from the brake rod/booster area. I really beat on it trying to get the clutch bled with the caliper method...

It only hisses when I put moderate to heavy pressure on the brake pedal, but the pedal stays firm.

I wonder if I blew out the booster seals, hope not...

This thread may be relevant to your shifting issue:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/366671-4-speed-getrag-question.html

Also, have you seen the tranny run before? Could it just be a blown synchro or something?

On the soft clutch I think its normal. I have driven two 4 speed swapped W123 cars and the clutch is softer than you would expect. I thought I messed something up since the clutch in my W124 300E is pretty firm.

Was just wondering about doing this into a 300CD. Will look more (this thread was right on top) but curious how common that is and the best way to find parts and the right person to do it.

Hissing Solved! It was the booster. I went to the North Houston LKQ Pick and Pull today and grabbed a Big Booster from an 83 300SD. They have three 300sd's and one 300d. Most of their parts still there. There was also an 80s 300E in there.

Direct bolt in swap, I reused my Master on it. Also, I managed to finagle it in without disconnecting any brake lines. Only had to pull the clutch hose and cap the reservoir. I was a little worried about the clutch hose reaching the master but ended up having plenty of slack. :)

Shouldn`t be any different than swapping in a 4-spd into a 300D.
Just source the parts from a 240D with manual transmission.

You will need to use the transmission cross mount from a 240D automatic trans. The cross mount for a 240D manual will not work, as you are moving the mount back a set of holes. I believe a 280E uses the same mount.

Charlie

Thanks for the link! Yes, I think thats my problem with the grinding in reverse... The Pilot bearing was the most difficult part of the swap for me by far... I ruined the first one trying to get it in the crank (made it Italy on it). I got a new one from NAPA that was made in the Japan. It fit better but was still a VERY tight fit. Its definitely possible that I didnt get it in perfectly straight. For now, I will just start it already in reverse if I need to back up, and avoid situations where I need to back up while running.

Never saw the trans run. I pulled it from a 240d that had a rod sticking through the block, but only 112k miles on it.

The 2nd gear downshift grind was just me being rusty with a stick shift. Shes shifting smooth in all forward gears. I put Mobil 1 ATF in the case.

She tachs the same rpms on the highway as the auto did which makes sense as they both have 1:1 4th gear ratios. Hmm now to look for a 2.88 rear diff.:)

Update!

Finally got around to pulling the trans again. She was making a lot more scraping and grinding noises.

Found that the wedged in pilot bearing had flung its grease as was probably close to seizing.:eek:

After cutting it out with my dremel, I used my cylindrical grinder attachment and went around the crank hole about twenty or so times using steady pressure.

New pilot bearing tapped right in like it should have to begin with.

Trans input shaft slipped right in and trans to engine was flush with only a little wiggling.:)

Result:

No more grinding reverse! No more grinding 2nd or any other gear!:D

Fantastic
 

Good to see this issue resolved. :D

.

617 Flywheels are definitely not all balanced neutral. You were lucky.

I had a flooded engine and tranny when I bought back my 84 280e euro. There was some water in the tranny. We rinsed it out and I got years of use out of it before the second gear synchro failed.