Auto -> Manual Transmission Conversion.
 

To do list:

Transmission swap 300TD

First, dyno the car with the automatic transmission (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=88501&highlight=rollers)

Second, Confirm availability of all needed parts:
Clutch disk
Pressure plate
Release bearing
Shift bushings and shift rod retainer clips
Pilot bearing
Rear engine support cross piece
Rear engine mount (rubber)
Hydraulic fluid tubing
Brake fluid
Gearbox lube
Fasteners (engine to bell housing, etc.)


Third…
1. Done — Power wash underside of vehicle
2. Done —Support car securely on stands
3. Done —Disconnect Bowden cable at engine
4. Done —Disconnect vacuum line at engine
5. Done —Disconnect and drain AT cooler lines
6. Done —Support car securely on stands
7. Done —Drain torque converter and AT pan
8. Done —Remove AT cooler lines
9. Done —Remove exhaust support
10. Done —Remove driveshaft
11. Done —Disconnect torque converter from flywheel
12. Done —Support transmission
13. Done —Remove rear engine support
14. Done —Disconnect speedo cable from transmission
15. Done —Disconnect neutral safety switch from transmission
16. Done —Remove transmission
17. Done —Remove flywheel
18. Done —Identify witness marks on crank and flywheel
19. Done —Install flywheel
20. Done —Install disk and pressure plate
21. Done —Install transmission
22. Done —Establish location of rear cross member
23. Done —Modify body/cross member and install
24. Done —Establish correct length for driveshaft
25. Done —Get driveshaft modified
26. Done —Modify shifter rods
27. Done —onnect rods to shifter and transmission, adjust as necessary
28. Done —Remove trim around shifter
29. Done —Protect or remove driver’s and passenger’s seats
30. Done —Remove valence above pedals
31. Done —Remove floor mats and carpeting from driver’s footwell
32. Done —Install pedal group
33. Done —Connect hydraulic lines
34. Done — Bleed system, flush brake fluid
35. Done —Install driveshaft
36. Done —Fluid in transmission
37. Modify wiring to accomodate clutch safety and reverse lights
38. Done —Road test
39. Reinstall all trim and carpeting
40. Run on dyno

Safety first:

The manual:

Remove transcooler lines...

The toughest bolt in this operation is removing the cap screw that goes where the arrow points. It supports part of the driver's side transcooler line and is directly above the front frame member.

You have to modify an allen wrench like this to be able to get it out.

...tranny comin' out. Doing this one time before makes all the difference in the world. Having three feet worth of extensions to get to those bolts on top of the hump doesn't hurt either.

I wonder if any of these holes can be used for the new rear crossmember?

Gyno view...

Comparison...there's still an adapter plate on the back of the engine but, this was what I set out do do today so I'm quitting for now. I'll post more as I make progress.

Oh , YES, it is 75 clear degrees.... you are working outside.... Don't want to get more done today than was on the schedule..... LOLOLOL....
" Safety first" .... so you are changing your methodology after that last escapade with the rear suspension spring ? where is your sense of adventure ?

Hah!

Keeping in the spirit of Area 51, I did manage to hit myself in the side of the head with a machinist's hammer. Don't ask how.

Looks great so far!
What is the weight difference between the two?
The transmission is from a 240D right?

How high does the car have to be off the ground to be abe to slide out the old transmission & in with the new? Interesting story & pictures - good luck
STeve

Randy,

LMK if you get stuck on something, I've done this before and had two trannies in and out since.

Take an inside mic or calipers to the ID of the crank and make DARN sure it's close to the same size as the pilot bearing (press fit, but not .080 press!)
Just to make sure you don't have to do something like I had to!

http://home.comcast.net/~tomj/images/bearing9.JPG

Also, you'll need to use the crossmember from the donor 240. It'll have to be ground down a bit on one side to clear the edge of the tranny (pic below.)

http://home.comcast.net/~tomj/images/trannymt_mod2a.JPG

Also, while it's out and easy to get to, cut off the starboard side exhaust mount ear (not going to be used anyway - use the one from your vehicle mounted at the bell housing) - pics below:

http://home.comcast.net/~tomj/images/trannymt_mod1a.JPG

Also, might as well steam-clean the tranny, do all the seals on it and paint it while it's out and easy:

http://home.comcast.net/~tomj/images/tranny3a.JPG

Oh yeah, the shift LEVER seals are just O-rings, un bolt the shift levers, lift out, then pry the O-ring out with a seal pick, go the local Hdwr store and match up (or maybe you already have an O-ring kit you can match them out of.)

http://home.comcast.net/~tomj/images/shiftseals9.JPG

Let us know how it progresses. I got tired of trying to document it, so I don't have good pics of each step.

One thing though, if you have a good 4-speed (sometimes you just don't know till you get it on the highway if it's a junkyard donor - I know, I've been playing musical trannies with mine), it'll make the car feel downright "peppy"! Whoa...!!! Wait...., did you say a TD???? Never mind.

BTW, if you're ever up in Colo, come by and take my 300D Turbo for a drive, with the 4-speed, from 2k to 4500, it doesn't give anything up to most cars!

One more thing, the secretary for Boulder Biodiesel has a wagon with a bad auto. She wants me to do the 4-speed swap into hers, maybe I'll wait and see how yours comes out before I do it to hers. Also need to procure a few more parts for another swap anyway (need pedal assy and crossmember, have the rest.)