I've seen many problems with these engines because we use tools to diagnose them when they aren't performing properly.

I recently bought a 617 with no compression on number three cylinder. $75 for the complete engine. After adjusting the valves it read 390 pounds on all cylinders. It runs like a top now.

First let me say. Why when some ask a simple question must you such a rude dude.
As I have seen before you don't read the "whole post." Tirebite said use a gauge.
Look at Tirebite signiture. When it say's ASE Master. That mean he has taken and passed a battery of test. And is a working professinal mechanic.
What you are doing has become common in auto repair. That's just keep changing part and some time or other you will stumble on to the problem and fix it.
Your point of cost effect. Does come into play. But if you want to fix the car you must pin point the problem.
The problem that was stated at the top of this post appears to be low compression. And a leak down test would be in order to isolate the problem.
I have seen treads in the archives to show how to do both properly. And interpet the data the qauges give you.
Charlie

Compression tests are a fine thing, they can immediatly point you to valves or rings/bore. They have been a mainstay diag tool since the invention of the internal combustian engine, reguardless of it's ignition source. You cannot argue that.


However, with a diesel, especialy these, it's usually pretty obvious what's going on as far as compression goes(if you have a little experience). And there are more backyard ways to figure it out that work about as well.
I imagine a man could drive these things all his life and through some deductive testing never have to use a compression gauge.
And you can certainly crutch an older motor with a weak cylinder along in a number of ways, this is because a diesel is a pretty durable beasty.


Now, can we go back to talking about cars please? You all know damn well a moderator is going to step in and shut everyone up at some point anyway, so give it up now, eh? There you go - your friendly moderator.

__________________
One more Radar Lover gone...
1982 VW Caddy diesel 406K 1.9L AAZ
1994 E320 195K

I was not present when the test was done. It was only a dry test. I left the car overnight with the mechanic so the engine would be cold when the test would be performed. BTW-Is a wet compression test taken when the engine is hot?
-Joe

__________________
'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.

We gonna turn this into an oil thread? Everyone can form/state their own opinion concerning compression test and post it here BUT when it becomes personal it WILL get modified.

If I were looking to purchase a W123 and took compression reading on a hot engine and one cylinder was 100 psi lower than the others I would use it to my advantage to get a lower price. Oh yea, I would use my Snap On MB diesel compression tester to obtain the readings. Nothing like the right too for the job.

This is the most moderating I have done all week. Is there a full moon out tonite?

Keep it clean guys/girls.

__________________
Jim

For new members.