This has been driving me crazy for a couple of weeks now and I really hope someone can help out here. The servo quit and the car will only blow hot air , defrost or auto-lo and hi . I resoldered my amp a few years ago to solve this problem , so I tried resoldering it again - no change. I received a 'fax' from jcd on troubleshooting that helped , though it's very hard to make out some of the numbers on the charts. I tested the output at pins 1 & 6 ( should be +12v @ pin 1 and -12v @ pin 6 if I read it right) my values were +3.25v @ pin 1 and -3.25v @ pin 6 . This points to the amp as the culprit , I replaced the amp , no change. Further testing of the temp sensors showed 1565 ohms @ 24C (within range)at the in car sensor and 270 ohms @ 26C (barely within range) at the ambient sensor. The temp dial is a little wacky ( only 2.7 ohms @ 65F )but I can get the resistance up to normal (300 ohms ) by increasing the setting to 69F. The middle and upper end is within specs. I gingerly took the second cover off the servo ( where the pot and gears are )the grease is still OK and when I attach a 6v battery to the servo motor it does move for a second or two and when I disconnect the juice it turns back (I'm assuming) to where it was. When it used to work normally the servo would make noise for 10 or so seconds after I turned off the key (moving to park I presume), but it sounded like it was spinning quite a ways.
I don't want to spend more money than I have to but it would be nice if it did'nt blow hot air all summer. I'm a little nervous about totally disassembling the servo but if I have to.... Do you guys figure it's the servo causing the problem or is it reacting to another problem that I'm clueless to ?
The only vacuum problem I've found is the heater valve at the firewall is leaking , i plugged off the line , jammed the valve closed(?)- no change.
Any and all suggestions would be appreciated