Ok, so I got the valve out but it was difficult because of the tight spacing. I will test before turning it on, but I'm getting ready at the air filter area first. Do I remove the entire metal housing of the air filter, bowl and all? If so, how do I get that big hose that connects with the turbo to let go of the housing? I've loosened the hose clamp but it won't come off. Can I dismount the little dangly thing that goes down in side instead, and cover that hole?
Sorry, this typed 1 handed and a little strange.

OK so I've installed the valve. Both of the test showed nothing, but I did feel the resisitance in the valve when I pulled it out a little. It was definitely moving a lever along with it. I am ready to fire it up, but I'm still confused about the air housing issue. I can't seem to remove the stiff turbo hose from the metal housing to remove the whole thing. However I have removed the dangly thing and can now cover the hole inside the housing, but I doubt this will provide me with an airtight seal. I don't want to make the worst mistake ever and have a junker...Someone please respond!

I usually remove the three 10MM nuts inside the air filter housing,
then losen the screw clamp on the turbo and lift foward to remove the enitire air filter housing. You shoul then be looking at the turbo. This would be for a Federal 49 state model. Not sure about the CA model.

I didn't know about the runaway potential when I replaced mine a couple years back. Got lucky I guess.

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1980 300SD Manganese Brown Metallic Clearcoat 248k
1979 300SD White 148 k
1984 300D Silver project car for daughter
1982 300D wrecked
1980 300SD 310K not running

Apply vaccum to "Shutoff" nipple (on backside of I.P.) and

VISUALLY see the RED "SHUT OFF" lever DEPRESS : or

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START ENGINE!

I did the vaccuum test on the nipple, the linkage didn't move at all, but other people also said the same. I also tried the other test of pushing down the lever, placing my finger on the hole and see if the stop lever stayed down, it didn't.
So to stop the engine I would want to cover the intake at the turbo?

I know an old mechanic that rebuilt engines and he kept a rag in hand whenever he worked on diesels, having been thru the factory training in Stuttgart that is what they taught then. Stuffing a rag into the air intake will kill a runaway engine if done quickly and properly. The air filter should be off as access is better with the whole filter assy removed, you will have to reach down and stuff it into the turbo inlet (best way) and that "U" shaped hose between the cleaner assy and the turbo will come off after loosening the clamp rings.
I have heard that another way to kill the engine is to cut the injector lines, you will need a big diagonal cutter or, better yet, a tool made for cutting wire rope (that is what I would use, fortunately I have never had a runaway after changing the shutoff actuator). Either way, the action would have to be quick!
If the engine takes off and revs towards infinity it will self destruct before about 10 or 15 seconds.
DDH

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

Just a quick note to say that everything went just great. I was 97% positive that it was installed correctly, but that could be a humdinger of an error and this being my first time and all...
The key I think for me is when I removed the old valve, I kind of messed it up, but that ended up saving me. It was real stuck in the tight space and I turned it the worng direction. Anyway, when I was trying to wiggle it out, the L pushed a lever all the way to the front, and so I could feel that through the valve. So when I installed the new one, I already knew what it would feel like to push that governor all the way to full throttle. When I put the new one in, I made sure it was hoked on properly by pulling it out and making sure it pulled the bar with it. I did this about 10 times, because it couold come unhooked if you wiggle a little when pushing it straight in. By pushing in and then pulling out to see if it was still hooked, I was able to install it properly and be positive by the 10th in and out and back in. It only came unhooked 1 time in there and I had to wiggle the thing in a certain way. Anyway, that info is for the next person who has to do this task. Very easy, but make damn sure!
Remember the #1 rule of wrenching, if you are getting a bit frustrated, walk away! Come back when you head is clear and you are calm. That will save you everytime!
The bolts are 10mm, and I used a combo wrench and a small rachet. Also, the bolts are 10mm for the air housing assembly. THe only special tool needed may be the little hex nut on the plastic throttle assembly which you must remove to access the valve. All in all a good job, but you can bet I had my 17mm wrnech in hand and a piece of wood for the hole when started!