you could find a local speedshop that could do it. A racing outfit would be great... the only problem is they would need some help to do it, as none of them would have worked on a benz before, but they know how to make cars real fast....

turbo
 

Badinfo = Check out Speedtek in Texas I hear they do just as crazy stuff as I do.

Benzboy1

Have u removed ur website? Your site had some good info on it.
I was wondering if I could use your picture of the exhaust manifold to turbo to show the local exhaust shop to get a price on welding one for me.

Thanx
Dan

Custom exhaust manifolds
 

Somebody <DELETED> my website <ACCIDENTLY> It was my fault because I did not protect my homepage well enough, somehow the bellsouth homepage if I was logged in, left CREATOR tools open, I am going to do it my homepage back soon I wait until I have some new parts to add my homepage, I do make those manifolds and other custom parts too, if you need I can make one for you it is directly bolt on, I just need to know what turbo you are going to use ;)

Okay,
I did some more reasearch and read some books. Now im ready to put the info to use. I just have a few more questions.
1. I am currently leaning twards the Mitsubishi Starion TD05 turbo which comes from a 2.6 liter 4 banger. I also read that the Starion came with a 2.2 liter, is this a typo? I would not want to purchase a turbo too small for the aplication.
I am also interested in the IHI Warner ISHI RHB6 turbo. If anyone has input in these models of turbos it would be greatly appreciated!
2. If i was to use the Starion turbo on my M103 what RPM would the turbo start to spool up?
3. How much boost would be safe for road use on my M103 with standard compression of 9.2:1.
4. How much boost for short run dragstrip use?
5. Would a timing retard box be recommended for my application?
Since i am only considering around 5 psi of boost, should i still consider an intercooler or will fresh air feeding the turbo be sufficient?
6. What are the crank and con rods in the M103? forged or cast?
7. Would a blow off valve be necessary/good to have or just useless with an automatic trans? I am guessing it would still serve a purpose sltting off the gas at high RPM. Right?
8. in the terms of component strength, how much HP is safe for the M103 and trans?

Thanks for everyones help so far!

BTW: If anyone is interested in turboing thier 2.6 or 3.0 M103 I can get custom manifolds made for $200 from a friend of mine. (expert welder) we would need to do them at the same time since we are using my engine as a jig. Let me know!
Adam

ANSWERS?
 

1. Mitsu TD05 Turbo is perfect for the 300E. Must be off of a Starion or Conquest Intercooled. Those were 2.6L units
2. RHB6 is too small. It will start boost early, put peter out by 4000 rpm.
3. I would expect the TD05 to boost about 1,800 rpm compared to 2,300 rpm of a Air Research T-3.
4. 9.2 to 1 compression. I would recommend 7 psi intercooled.
with 9.2 to 1 expect even a quicker spool, almost nil on the turbo lag!
5. Drag Strip...Run Unleaded Race Gas mixed with Premium Unleaded. Run about 20% Race Gas. 8 Psi should be fine.
I would not push the stock pistons past that. One step Colder Plug may also help. Nippondenso or Bosch Silvers.
6. Retard Box. YES! your compression is high. you want 25 degrees advance at FULL boost/3000 rpm. (16V engines can run 28 degrees, but yours is not)
7. Your stock rods can handle 75 HP per cylinder. The crank will handle 18 psi no problem. Cast Pistons can be run up to 11 to 1 compression (8 psi) Forged Pistons make too much noise. Detonation will break the best parts in the world! So avoid detonation.
8. My friend who is a MB mechanic and Auto Trans specialist told me the 300E transmission will handle 350hp no problem. There are some tricks inside that can be done for more HP. Upgraded Transcooler may be necessary. I have seen the trans handle that amount of power before so I think it will be no problem.
9. You forgot extra fuel. We can tackle that answer later.

GOOD LUCK!

Hey adam, I dunno if this will work, but I believe I've read that the 1998-1999 E300 Tubro Diesel uses the same m104 layout on the engine (meaning its an inline 6-24v) and the manifold and turbo can bolt right up to almost any m104 eninge (inlcuding hte C36) I didn't know if you researched this method or not, but I would assume it might be easier, if you can find parts for that rare TDs, especially something this new.

Thought I would shoot that out as a suggestion, but i'm a newbie to forced induction :p

Chiragp,
Ill check into the manifold thing for possibly turboing the E320 but i know for a fact they will not fit my M103 without a lot of work.
Thanks!

Speedtek,
Here is a picture of a turbo from a Starion ESiR. I may be rong but the guy thats selling it says it was from the intercooled version. what i don't understand is that the turbine intake is only two inches inside diameter! This turbo seems more suited for a 2.2 liter engine. Is this the 2.6 liter turbo???
Thanks!
Adam

http://home.attbi.com/~dianalynnxk/richard/MIT2.jpg

There is no way to know if that is the right turbo just by looking at it. You would need to have very specific info on it. The smaller the turbine, the faster the car will produce boost though. I thought that you picked this turbo setup because it supposedly produced boost very fast so you would hardly have any lag.

Actually Speedteck used the same turbo on one of his projects so i think he would know the difference by looking at it,,, Maybe?
Adam

mitsubishi turbo
 

Need a pic of the compressor side on the turbo. Size is nothing with these turbos, take a look at IHI turbos they are really small but pack a punch. The turbo from a Buick GN also works well on the 2.6 to 3.0L engine even though it comes off of a 3.8L. Boost comes in at 2200 to 2500 rpm. a slight lag but pulls hard 4000 to 6000 on the 6 cylinder. When I used to work for Ralliart they used the same turbo (impeller blade was looked different) on the Group A Starion 2.0L and produced 650 HP! (2.2bar/32psi) for qualifying. 550 HP in race trim. I will find my pics and post them.

There is a Turbo Mitsu 2.2L motor used in the vans. You must be sure the turbo came off the 86-9 2.6l US Starion/Conquest cars.

The IHI RHB-6 has a 1.75" inlet and those are used on the 2 to 3 liter Alfas.

YESSS!!!
 

I want the manifold! $200 and i'm in!
Let me know all of the details and what you did to your car!
TOTALLY interested.

Hey,

Sorry, just catching up on the thread....

Speedtek, the 300E stock piston/rod setup can handle 75hp per cyl? Damn, quite robust for a stock 177hp car. Excellent canidate for turbocharging, I'd say.

The 300E canidate I'm looking at has 177,000 miles on it. Would be doing the head gasket and valve guide seals right away. Would it be wise to go deeper (like piston rings) before turbocharging? Or should I replace what needs replacing and then get the compression checked? OR can I get a reliable compression check with a leaking head gasket and valve seals?

Thanks for any more info on this--it's got quite a bit of potential!

-m

Turbocharge
 

Taking a leakdown test would be the first step. and if it is under 10% I would turbo it. The headwork would be a good idea. Adjust the valves and do a compression test, If it is within 10% of factory specs, I would say you got a decent engine. I have turbocharged a few cars with 150k miles on them and had no problems. I limit the boost to 8psi and watch my air-fuel ratio
carefully.

GOOD LUCK!

Back with a few more questions!

1. Fuel enrichment, my thinking is purchase a module that senses boost pressure and adds fuel via electronic pulsed injector. This will work, right? Any other ideas?

2. Since the turbo i am purchasing has water cooling as well, i was thinking of installing a banjo fitting to the coolant bleed off screw on the thermostat housing. Where it goes from there i have no clue! Any suggestions?

3. On the oil feed issue, should the flow be restricted in any way? I don't want the turbo to get all the oil pressure and none to the engine. Is it okay to place a no restriction T fitting on the oil pressure sender?

4. I have decided to go with no intercooler to start off since i only plan on running a few PSI to start. Would it be safe to say that piping the compressed air down and around the engine will offer some cooling other than just streight across the valve cover? Will there be flow problems with longer piping?

Thanks again for everyones help on my little project! Im sure the info here will help others in the future as well.
Adam