Came across a 1977 w116. only emblem on the aft end was "6.9". Cloth interior looked very well taken care of. Said one owner. Haven't driven it yet. Probably won't do for my commuter but might be interesting. Euro?

Look for posts by gerryvz. The man knows his stuff.

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'90 300SE 298k
-300K and it gets put into retirement.
'80 300D 255k Purchased new by family in 1980.

Had a:
1973 220 (gas)
1980 300SD
1992 400E

Hard to say from your description if this is a Euro.

US-spec 6.9s generally had leather interiors (I would say probably 95%+ did) though "feintuftvelour" (velour) was an option.

US-spec 6.9s also only had the "6.9" badge on the right rear of the trunk lid, while non-US models could be specified with any combination (or lack thereof) of badges that one desired. Typically a non-US had both the "450SEL" and "6.9" badges on the trunklid.

US-spec 6.9s were made from the 1977 model year to the 1979 model year (and a few were left over and sold in 1980, and registered as such). Non-US 6.9s were sold from 1975 through late 1979 (and perhaps some in 1980 as well).

Couple of ways to tell if it is a non-US 6.9: does the climate control system have a vertical row of pushbuttons, or consist of two large rotary dials? If dials, then it's not US; if buttons only plus a temp thumbwheel, it's US.

Also if the car doesn't have a sunroof it's likely not US (again all US 6.9s had a sunroof stock, though this too could be deleted but very rarely was).

Does it have gauges in km or MPH? German or English? Small bumpers or large US bumpers?

6.9s aren't practical for most people as daily drivers, though they are easier than a 6.3 to live with. Expect 12-13 MPG around town, and 15 and perhaps 16 MPG on the freeway. US cars had 250 HP and 360 lb-ft of torque; Euro cars had 286 HP and 405 lb-ft torque and so are significantly faster.

Problem areas to check out: suspension operation, steering box, hydraulic pump & valve leakage, oil leaks, transmission shifting, sunroof operation, cruise control operation; climate control system operation, water leaks in trunk, window operation.

Engines are bulletproof and are good for 300,000 miles with only moderate care. Transmission, 150,000+. Normally the suspension, climate control and cruise control are non-op or semi-op. Bank on 4-5,000 to rebuild the suspension (parts and labor, recommend replacing everything all at once rather than just individual components); cruise control is going to be $1,000-1,500 to do (not imperative as it isn't a high-use item); climate control is often broken and needs $2,000-4,000 to fix. All 116s have these problems save for the suspension, which is only for the 6.9s.

6.9s with good suspension handle moderately well, but are a bit soft if you like a firmish ride. IF the major systems I mentioned work and the car is in good condition, the following general rules apply as far as costs:

low-mileage/collectible or well-maintained original cars: $15-40,000

well-maintained cars, better than average: $10,000-15,000

average 6.9s, need attention but worth saving -- typically decent but not exceptional in any way: $6,000-10,000

typical eBay 6.9, needs lots of work, basically just a parts car, weatherbeaten, 60% of all 6.9s that you see are in this condition: $2,000-6,000.

DO NOT buy a 6.9 unless you are prepared to spend at least $10,000, and preferably $15,000. That way you buy a car with few or no problems, that you can drive happily and maintain as it needs fixing.

The most important thing is to find a mechanic who knows what these cars are, and knows how to work on them. Most dealerships and independents don't know squat about these cars.

Good luck

Cheers,
Gerry

Thanks, gerryvz.
A ton of information in your answer. For Sale claims ice cold air and all maintenance records, and the car has signs of good maintenance. Looks like a rust free AZ car but my inspection was cut short by a real good thunder storm. I'm hoping this is a sleeper and the seller doesn't know what he has as he's only asking $2250

Thanks for the help!!!