Old Car ('76 450SL), New Owner, Few Questions. Please Help

[rzrob]

Hello,

I own a '03 E class, but just purchased a '76 450SL from a coworker. Real pretty car. It's not perfect though. I was hoping some of you with more experience could help me figure out a few things:

Headlights - One side is out, but when I hit the highbeams all 4 go on. It seems to be inconsistent. I'm suspicious of the highbeam switch (turnsignal, wiper etc.). Any ideas?

Turn signal switch - doesn't stay locked either. Is this fixable, or should I just replace it? If it's related to the headlight not working, maybe I'm best off replacing. Any clues on removing it?

Parts - I need a good place to get little parts like turn signal switch, taillight lenses and front bumper and floor mats and dash pad. Any good sources for best price (Internet hopefully)?

Steering - is loose. Is there something that wears that I can replace?

Tires - Has Yoko Aegis 205/70r 14. Anybody ever put a meatier tire on the stock rims? I'm wondering about a 60, like a 225 or 235. Will this look too beefy - or even fit? I just want a sportier look.

Any help with these items greatly appreciated. I'm reasonably mechanically inclined and live in Southern California.

Rob

[Bondavi]

Welcome to the family of SL owners! I myself have a '75 450SL that I am enjoying very much.

You would be best replacing the turn signal lever assembly. Sounds like yours is worn.

If "best price" is your motto, go to Pick 'n Pull with your tools, pay $2 admission, and go find a W116 to raid. Most likely they won't have 107 SL's, but maybe you'll find a SLC or two. These cars usually go to the specialized recyclers. W116's are pretty plentiful and come in a variety of tastes. Here in town there's a 300SD, and that works just fine for several parts. www.picknpull.com

Steering: Replace the steering box. My SL only has 103K miles, so the steering feels pretty good. My former '74 SLC with 160K had a bit more play, so it all depends on the mileage on your car.

Tires: I don't know about using 60's but 55's would be nice. See below link (not my car!):

http://www.care2.com/c2c/photos/view.html/view/234/120428746/426829300/

Have you tried talking with your co-worker about the car history, or asking about the headlight condition? Perhaps you could find out if he had tried replacing the lamp at one point with the same result?

Enjoy your new ride!

You can get anything you want for your 107 right here at Fastlane, MBshop forum sponsor....listed on the top of your screen......................

[abe g]

Check your light headlight sealed beams. (i assume that you have US light set up) One or more of the filements on the low beams are probably out. I shifted to euro tpe on my 450 sl 1977. Still have original USA lights and complete surrond for sale ($100 plus shipping) may need re splicing. good luck Abe G pS Also original great shape steering wheel (black) with star. original vynil. (switched to leather) also $100 plus shipping.

[230/8]

Your turn signal switch may be "fixable" if it is like mine. Carefully remove it, a couple of screws under the rubber cover, and look it over as you move the lever. Careful, don't drop a screw into the column!!

You should see that a pair rollers inside the assembly, top part and bottom part of assembly, move slightly into small grooves in the case, depending on whether you are signalling a left or right turn. The groove acts as the detent to hold the switch on as you turn the wheel. This groove wears slightly and its sharp edges are rounded off, which allows the lever to pop out of the detent groove. Take a small jeweler's file and slightly file the groove of the problem direction just a hair deeper and sharpen up its sides, but not too much or it will not cancel when the wheel swings back straight ahead.

Clean off any small filing debris and dab on a tiny amount of white grease to smoothe the roller action. Just a little, don't foul the works with grease. Re-attach the assembly and give it a try. You should have just saved yourself $150.

I did this on my 230/8 about twenty years ago and have not had to repeat it since. I plan to service my 350SL the same way this summer, same switch, just harder to get at.

230/8

Hold on a minute with that new steering box...it could be the steering coupler, steering damper, tie rods, idler arm bushing, etc. These are cheaper/easier to fix than the new box. How about paying a trusted local mechanic $75 to do a thorough inspection of the entire car. Then you can prioritize and perform the work yourself if you wish (I would disclose to the mechanic that he may not be getting all of the repair work he is pointing out).

Search this board and www.sl107.com for "loose" and "steering" and you will get a lot of information.

Also, my DIY renovation was enormously aided by www.pindelski.com, an inexpensive how-to repair site (w/ pictorials) for these cars.

Rich Mayer
82 500 SL

[ljmauricio]

How about trying to adjust that steering box before replacing it. I've had success adjusting two. (not me, the mechanic)

[230/8]

As with everything Mercedes, use caution when adjusting the steering box. It can be adjusted, but do so in very small increments to avoid raising the internal friction to a point where it interferes with the normal free movement of the mechanism. If you check your manual you will see that there is a complex procedure for measuring this freedom of movement (internal friction resistance) that uses a small torque wrench on the steerting wheel nut, with wheels up, and the suspension unloaded.

That said, you can try loosening the lock nut, hold it with the wrench, and then turn the center screw anti-clockwise about 1/8 turn. Re-lock the nut and try the steering for feel and play. Remember, the adjustment to tighten, i.e. remove play, is anti-clockwise. It would be wise to apply reference paint marks to the adjusting screw so you can keep track of your adjustments.

There have been other threads that address this issue. A search may help to further clarify the matter for you.

Good luck,

230/8

[rzrob]

Gee Whiz Folks, Thanks for all the feedback. You guys are like the kind find!! .

No seriously though, I can't believe the wealth of fantastic advice I'm getting. It's good sense. I can't wait to do minor exploratory surgery on the turnsignal and steering with this new insight.

Regarding the right lowbeam headlight, funny, tonight I just noticed it was back on with the left and appeared to be working fine. I couldn't make it missbehave.

Also thanks for the parts leads.

I'm getting a lot of compliments on this car. My new Benz doesn't turn heads like this. I think people just want to envision themselves having as much fun as I must be.

RZ Rob

PS: Anybody suggest a sporty profile (size) tire I can put on the stock 14" rims that won't look out of place? I liked the ones in the pic above, but those were like 16's

[rzrob]

Originally Posted by 230/8

Your turn signal switch may be "fixable" if it is like mine. Carefully remove it, a couple of screws under the rubber cover, and look it over as you move the lever. Careful, don't drop a screw into the column!!

You should see that a pair rollers inside the assembly, top part and bottom part of assembly, move slightly into small grooves in the case, depending on whether you are signalling a left or right turn. The groove acts as the detent to hold the switch on as you turn the wheel. This groove wears slightly and its sharp edges are rounded off, which allows the lever to pop out of the detent groove. Take a small jeweler's file and slightly file the groove of the problem direction just a hair deeper and sharpen up its sides, but not too much or it will not cancel when the wheel swings back straight ahead.

Clean off any small filing debris and dab on a tiny amount of white grease to smoothe the roller action. Just a little, don't foul the works with grease. Re-attach the assembly and give it a try. You should have just saved yourself $150.

I did this on my 230/8 about twenty years ago and have not had to repeat it since. I plan to service my 350SL the same way this summer, same switch, just harder to get at.

230/8

Hey 230/8,

Your little MacGyver trick worked great!!! Sure enough, I took the switch off and saw the little ledge the rollers climb and how the plateau was worn, so I rant to HomeDepot and grabbed ajeweller's file set (I needed them anyways) and went to town. Unfortunately the rubber cover over the switch didn't survive. I couldn't figure out how to get it unhooked from the column.

I'm really happy with the repair though. I also put a new hood emblem on and the new floormats - all which I found on eBay for cheap. Car's looking and acting better everyday. Thanks.

RZ Rob

[cbdo]

Re the headlights: If you've got the US setup (quad round bulbs) then I can offer two thoughts. One is that it's possible, and not difficult, to replace the original-type sealed beams with halogen bulb and reflector sets for notably improved lighting easily and fairly cheaply. This may already have been done.

The second is that the outer lights have two elements each, a low and a high beam; the inner ones have only a high beam element. If a low beam element is out, the high in the outer light will still come on when you switch to high beams. The sockets that plug into the back of the bulbs may simply be dirty, in which case some determined use of files and/or emery cloth may be remarkable in its effect. Mine were coming on but definitely dim; clean contacts brightened the lights amazingly.

[rzrob]

Hi guys. For the headlights, it was just the bulb as a few of you suspected. t sounded more complicated as sometimes it would work. THANK YOU. You guys are a real godsend.

Now If I can make the Cruise Control work ('76 450SL)

RZ Rob