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  #1  
Old 09-15-2007, 07:49 PM
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W107 Starter Removal

What's the secret to removing the top bolt on the starter.
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  #2  
Old 09-15-2007, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwadey View Post
What's the secret to removing the top bolt on the starter.
Damn near impossible from what I've seen. Hopefully my starter won't need replacement, but would be good info to know anyhow.
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  #3  
Old 09-17-2007, 06:39 PM
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The damn thing is out!

The top bolt is a MF. There is no way to get a socket wrench on this bolt guys. I made a special tool out of a 10mm gear wrench and a cut down 10mm allen wrench about an inch long. Not a lot of leverage but I was able to break it free and remove it with the aid of my tool.
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  #4  
Old 09-18-2007, 08:24 AM
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On my 280SL I needed 5 feet worth of extensions and flex socket. And that was with my exhaust dropped (for other reasons).
I found that removing the exhaust manifold assisted in removing the electrical connections.
This was done to remove the trani, however, once the starter was out I had it checked by a starter/alternator shop before re-installing.
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  #5  
Old 09-18-2007, 12:40 PM
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i have heard people making an access port through the floor board. On my 220 project it took me 2 hours to get the starter off, a real PIA, and I had to fabricate tools for that one too.
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  #6  
Old 10-06-2007, 12:21 AM
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Talking Is it same on 560SL?

Recently on my 88 560SL,from time to time the starter won't engage the wheel properly. Looks like I need to replace the starter soon .


Is it the same on 560SL about the BOLT? What is the special tool? How to make one?

Thanks!
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  #7  
Old 09-17-2007, 05:46 PM
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I tood mine to a starter shop because you could spend the rest of your life trying to get the top bolt out.
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  #8  
Old 03-27-2008, 08:58 PM
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or open a hole ..............
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Ron
2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace
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  #9  
Old 01-10-2009, 06:59 PM
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107 starter removal

I just replaced my starter in my 1977 450 SL. The top bolt isn't easy but not all that hard. I removed the Transmition dip stick tube from the transmission. It runs in front of the bolt. Use a extra long extension with a 19 mm swival socket. feed the socket along the side of the transmission to the bolt. It comes out fairly easy. With the Dip stick tube removed you can just reach your hand in to re-start the bolt after the new starter is in place.
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  #10  
Old 01-16-2009, 09:18 PM
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Lightbulb Second time 'round

After my stressful starter-related problems as narrated at http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=242435, I just have to add a suggestion here to those facing a starter removal.

Invest in the right tools. On my first starter removal, I got away with using a 3/8" allen-head socket to remove the dreaded top bolt from the starter. That was a foolish move, and I consider myself lucky because the bolt was not nearly as tight as others have related on many threads on this and other forums. I was able to break the bolt free using only my 3/8" ratchet drive and no cheater bar/pipe extension. Some folks used 3-feet of additional leverage and still couldn't budge their bolts free.

So, when I realized that I would need to drop my starter a second time, I went to my local Sears retail store (the small strip-mall sized shop) and picked up a fresh set of metric allen-head sockets (I was missing the 10mm in my old set).

When I used that new 10mm allen-head socket on the upper starter bolt today, it was harder to seat the tool in the bolt's head. But that additional effort was WAY less than what would be required to remove an allen bolt that has been stripped by a worn or incorrectly sized tool.

Also, before you condemn your starter, CHECK YOUR BATTERY CABLES!
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  #11  
Old 01-17-2009, 02:45 PM
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The 3/8 allen wrench method will work in a pinch, without causing too much damage to the bolt...unless King Kong torqued it last time.

Knowing your english decimal equivilents really can come in handy!! 3/8=.375 10mm=.3937 That's only .0093" per side difference.
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  #12  
Old 01-17-2009, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jplinville View Post
The 3/8 allen wrench method will work in a pinch, without causing too much damage to the bolt...unless King Kong torqued it last time.

Knowing your english decimal equivilents really can come in handy!! 3/8=.375 10mm=.3937 That's only .0093" per side difference.
Enough to pooch a bolt.
The right tool for the job saves head ache AND heart ache.
Want to have a hate on for your ride? Break a bolt in the worst possible spot.
Then break your extraction tool.
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  #13  
Old 01-17-2009, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nobby View Post
Enough to pooch a bolt.
The right tool for the job saves head ache AND heart ache.
Want to have a hate on for your ride? Break a bolt in the worst possible spot.
Then break your extraction tool.
Please re-read my post. In a pinch means just that...
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1987 560SL
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Meet on the level, leave on the square. Great words to live by

Were we directed from Washington when to sow and when to reap, we should soon want bread. - Thomas Jefferson: Autobiography, 1821.
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  #14  
Old 12-01-2009, 09:52 AM
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Yes the early models use the 19mm hex head. Kind of like the steering wheel bolt difference.
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  #15  
Old 12-01-2009, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdie View Post
Yes the early models use the 19mm hex head. Kind of like the steering wheel bolt difference.

Rowdie - Have you tried removing the starter from your early cars (with the engine still in ?

In the search for my mystery noise, it has been suggested that I check if my starter is retracting properly. Which probably means replace it with a rebuilt once it is out.

By time I add 2 or 3 hours shop time, I am going to be up to the $400-500 range to R&R a starter that currently works just fine.

So, a DIY job may be required - If other 60-70 year olds have done it without a hoist!
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