Removing the windshield wiper grille sections

[strelnik]

On my 380SL, there are two windshield grilles directly behind the hood and in front of the windshield. Each one is attached with what look like three black rivets. The area under them is all filled with crud and I want to remove them and clean out these areas, which I suspect will become filled with water and crud and RUST if I don't clean them out and unblock any drains.

Is this the same on other SLs? Have you got parts that were riveted on, or is this a DIY fix by a former owner?

Thanks,
S

[Chad300tdt]

That sounds like the connectors used on the panel that covers the wiper motor on 123s. On the 123s that rivet is actually a push pin type connector. You can push the center pin completely through and then pull the "rivet" out. Then they can be reused.


EDIT: I found this pic of a similar expanding rivet.

[strelnik]

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

That sounds like the connectors used on the panel that covers the wiper motor on 123s. On the 123s that rivet is actually a push pin type connector. You can push the center pin completely through and then pull the "rivet" out. Then they can be reused.


EDIT: I found this pic of a similar expanding rivet.

Looks like what I've got. How do you pull the rivet out w/o destroying it, it doesn't unscrew.

I have been thinking of using plastic screws here or maybe coated sheet metal screws. There's enough of a gap with the hood to do this.

[Chad300tdt]

I used a mini philips screwdriver I had that was the same size as the hole in the rivet, a strong piece of wire like a coat hanger would work too. I pushed the screwdriver through until the center pin fell out. Then I used a small flat blade screwdriver to gently pry up on the lip of the rivet and pulled it out by hand. I successfully removed all of them without breaking them and reused them all.

[strelnik]

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

I used a mini philips screwdriver I had that was the same size as the hole in the rivet, a strong piece of wire like a coat hanger would work too. I pushed the screwdriver through until the center pin fell out. Then I used a small flat blade screwdriver to gently pry up on the lip of the rivet and pulled it out by hand. I successfully removed all of them without breaking them and reused them all.

Part of tomorrow morning's work after breakfast and the bank. I ordered some spares just in case, they are cheap at the dealer

[Strife]

If you do this, I'd also:

1. Check the area under the blower motor cover, but be warned:

a. You will probably need a new gasket for the cover(good idea to replace it anyway).

b. I rustproofed the entire blower motor compartment after seeing early signs of surface rust (naturally, I made sure the drains there were not blocked before and after painting). To do it right, you have to remove the blower motor, but this too is tricky; PB blast the four studs AND LET THEM SIT before attempting to do this. Breaking one of these studs is very, very bad. Very bad. Also, the blower motor housing is old and probably brittle, and must be lifted and installed straight up and down without catching a corner on the studs. You will find many blower housings with at least one broken corner.

2. I replaced my heater core hoses when doing this (often neglected); they are exposed when you lift those cowls.

[meltedpanda]

most get brittle, just replace, plus the result will look nicer!

[strelnik]

Originally Posted by Strife

If you do this, I'd also:

1. Check the area under the blower motor cover, but be warned:

a. You will probably need a new gasket for the cover(good idea to replace it anyway).

b. I rustproofed the entire blower motor compartment after seeing early signs of surface rust (naturally, I made sure the drains there were not blocked before and after painting). To do it right, you have to remove the blower motor, but this too is tricky; PB blast the four studs AND LET THEM SIT before attempting to do this. Breaking one of these studs is very, very bad. Very bad. Also, the blower motor housing is old and probably brittle, and must be lifted and installed straight up and down without catching a corner on the studs. You will find many blower housings with at least one broken corner.

2. I replaced my heater core hoses when doing this (often neglected); they are exposed when you lift those cowls.

The whole reason for doing this is to create a means to move the hood to 90 degrees so I can work on multiple things. You guys have giiven me lots of ideas.

I got this car for cheap because it works but theguy never used it and kept it in storage. With the extra parts I have purchased, I can make this a good running car, then I need to decide if I want to keep it since I still have a few too many cars.

If I had a building especially in a better climate I would move.

[rowdie]

You should be able to get the hood up with out removing them. Just disconnect the hood at the hinge.

[strelnik]

Originally Posted by rowdie

You should be able to get the hood up with out removing them. Just disconnect the hood at the hinge.

I did that already and can move the hood to about 120 degrees. If I remove the grille panels it can go back until it hits the windshield, maybe 240 degrees. My plan is to install a holder in the engine compartment to secure the hood straight up, and hold it there securely.

[RadioTek]

Could any of you elaborate on your mods for the hood? I don't have enough hair left to cover up the scars from the grill.

The only thing I was able to find that helps is to run the car up on ramps when working on the engine. It gives me some more clearance, but not enough.