'87 560SL Door Panel Removal with Window Stuck Closed?

[gary560sl]

My drivers side electric window does not function and is stuck in the up position. I checked the switch, which has power, and the switch works fine when swapped with the passenger side. Yesterday I tried to remove the door panel to check the motor. I have clear instructions on removing the panel but they state the window needs to be in the down position to relieve the top of the door panel along the window edge. Does anybody out there know how to remove the panel with the window up? Is there a way to get the window down maually? Are there any further tests I can do on the window without removing the panel?

[rocky raccoon]

Try it anyway. I have remo0ved mine with window down and window up.

[gary560sl]

Thanks for the quick reply.

Can you offer any tips on removal with the window up? Any special tool required? In which direction should I tug at it?

[turbobenz]

any progress? My windows stuck up also. I have power to the motor and if i externally supply it is still stuck. You can hear the motor trying to work. I think its an internal short.

[rocky raccoon]

As I recall the following steps in approximate order. It is good practice to have a few extra plastic panel securing fasteners on hand. Dealer or big box auto parts will have.

1. Remove upper chrome trim plate on opening end of door.
2. Remove chrome trim plate on hinge end of door
3. Remove "C" shaped trim plate around latch
4. Carefully pry cover plate covering inner door handle trim. It is
plastic and brittle. Use a knife blade.
5. Remove screw securing inner door handle trim and remove trim.
6. Remove the screw holding the front end of the arm rest.
7. Using plastic tools, unsnap the panel securing fasteners along the
bottom and side of the panel.
8. Grasp the panel at the bottom and at the rear of the arm rest and lift
straight up. The upper part of the panel is sort of hooked along the
inner window frame.
9. Note how the rear of the arm rest hooks into the inner door body.
That may be the biggest pain to replace correctly but it is definitely
do-able.
10. Careful to not displace the speed nut for the front arm rest screw.
11. When the dealing is done don't forget to replace the plastic cover.

Good wrenching and let us know the results so as to add to the data base.

[coleyjf]

Just a silly thought!

There are 2 fuses - one for "up" and one for "down" - I assume you've checked them

Cheers

Jim

[meltedpanda]

with the door panel off you should be able to run 12 V direct one way for up, switch leads , one way for down, in that way you can check motor and rule out fuse , ground and switch

[gary560sl]

Thanks for all your advice everybody. This car is a weekend project for me so I will report back at the weekend to let you know how I get on.

[gary560sl]

I didn't realise there were two fuses. I will check first before attacking the door panel removal. Might be the weekend before I get to play next!

[gary560sl]

I checked the fuse box and I cannot see separate fuses for up and down, only separate fuses for left side and right side. I have attached a pic identifying the fuses in my fusebox. Any ideas?

[meltedpanda]

did you run 12 v direct to see if it is the motor?

[coleyjf]

Originally Posted by gary560sl

I checked the fuse box and I cannot see separate fuses for up and down, only separate fuses for left side and right side. I have attached a pic identifying the fuses in my fusebox. Any ideas?

Sorry should have thought first before replying - My UK(Euro) version has "fuse 11" as "window lift relay" as well as for Central Locking.

Cheers

Jim

[gary560sl]

Sorry for taking so long to post back. Well, I managed to tug the door panel off with the window up. I removed all fasteners and clips as described in the panel removal instructions posted on this site and then it took a firm hand in the vertical direction to remove the clips along the window seal but came off in one piece.

I then put 12V direct onto the motor which confirmed it was dead. I sourced a new OEM replacement from autopartswarehouse for $60, which I thought was a bargain. Changing out the motor was a bit tricky but now I have a working power window again!

Thanks for all your advice.

[Strife]

Originally Posted by gary560sl

I then put 12V direct onto the motor which confirmed it was dead. I sourced a new OEM replacement from autopartswarehouse for $60, which I thought was a bargain. Changing out the motor was a bit tricky but now I have a working power window again!

Thanks for all your advice.

That's amazing, because they almost never go bad, most of the time it's a fuse, switch, or connector.

The reason having the window down is recommended is because it's less likely to damage the panel if you angle it out and up, which is harder to do with the window glass in the way, at least that's the way I saw it.

[meltedpanda]

good job!