OK SL xperts, educate me!!

[Cap'n Carageous]

I'm back to considering an SL again. 90 to 98. No 600s and probably no 500s either, although there are some damn fine looking ones out there with low miles in the mid to upper twenties. What should I be looking/looking out for in these cars. I know books and records, I mean pluses and minuses. I plan to drive it around 30,000 miles a year open highway. I've heard to stay away from the 97s. Talk to me yall! Mileage, ride, upkeep???

[RickM]

I believe in '98 they changed the headlights and other styling ques for that "newer" look.

[bobterry99]

I have a '91 300SL and a '96 SL500 located in Georgia for sale, Cap'n. I have a '90 300SL with manual tranny in Vegas which is also for sale. If you like, drop me an email.

[jjrodger]

Great cars. Go for the 500: it is no dearer to buy, run or insure but goes a lot harder. The cars were facelifted substantially in about 1995 and in a very minor way in 06/98. After 06/98 they were fitted with the latest thre valve engines.

Since you will be doing 30k mile a year there is no point paying a premium for low mileage. You will find a significant price difference between cars with 25k miles and those with 50k miles, more than you'd usually expect.

I do 25k miles a year in mine. I drive it quite quickly on a mix of roads. I get between 17 and 28 mpg (that's UK miles and gallons). It is cheap enough to service, no more than any other Merc, certainly no more than my previous C240.

There is a load of very recent threads on buying one; try a search under my name or that of Learoy.

[DavidWeis]

Hi,
I put a spreadsheet together during my purchase run. It contained all the advice I gleamed from this site, including others. I tried to put credit were it was due, but it was sometimes hard to figure out who came up with the obvious first.

With that in mind, email me for the full sheet. (excuse formatting)

David

+_+_+_+_+_+_
Go for the 500; the 320 is too slow, and the 600 engine is too expensive. DaveW

Be sure to look past the glittery paint and chrome, these cars can be made to look just outstanding in most cases in a day or two, you need to research the history of the car a bit to determine it's true worth. - Gilly

No matter how clean it looks, sounds, and feels, plan on $1-2K to fix stuff if you need the shop to do all work; if it's got "a few things" that you notice, plan on $2-3K. - cbdo
I'd absolutely suggest having a MB experienced mechanic do a PPI (Pre-Purchase Inspection) as well as a MB competent Body shop. - Rick M
Just a quick by the way, go for a 1992 or newer. The 1990 and 1991 did not have the best diagnostic connector providing fewer codes which makes the dealer have to troubleshoot with fewer codes..Gets expensive.
Make sure it hasn't had a front end whack. You need to satisfy yourself that the "shiver" is nothing serious. Best way to check for accident damage is to look for panel joints under the bonnet and check the little date stamps on the plastic parts at the front to see they are consistent with the build date. You can do the same with the rear lights, too. -jjrodger



Hard Top Available
Rollbar tilt switche works
Plastic Windows look good
elau Check top mechanism to make sure it is operating properly
elau Check top for leaks Check the seals for the tops has no water leak. Easiest way to find out is to drive the car into a car wash.+
Gilly Oil Leak
Gilly Oil Leak Rear Main Seal
Gilly Oil Leak Front Crank Seal
Gilly Oil Leak Upper Part of the oil Pan to the block
Gilly Oil Leak Upper Part of the block by left rear corner There is a weep hole. If dripping, could be bad intake gaskets
Gilly Coolant Leaks at radiator Expensive to repair
Gilly Coolant Leaks at Water Pump Expensive to repair
Gilly Transmission leaks, especially in bell housing Expensive to repair
Gilly Air conditioner Expensive to repair: Don't fall for the "it just needs freon" ploy. - maheath

Gilly Maintenance History: Single service provider
Gilly Maintenance History: Records Hopefully the owner has kept copies of everything. If not, look at the service records at some shop (with the present owners approval you should be able to). See: : "oil change, oil change, tires, brakes, oil change, maintenance service, oil change, brake flush", you've got a keeper! If it's more like this: "oil change, engine runs rough, oil change, steering pulls left, oil leak, oil change, transmission shift hard" things like that, the guy might be looking to bail out on the car because of having problems all the time. Seems like some cars are just like that, "Monday cars" or something, always little (or big) problems. - Gilly
maheath Check that timing chain guide rails have been replaced:high mileage
maheath Check that valve stem seals have been replaced. If not, expect them to go soon
cbdo Cruise Control
cbdo Windows
cbdo Radio Antenna (easy fix)
cbdo Sun Visors are expensive to replace but easy to fix floppy.

cbdo Rust: Top Well of all wheels
cbdo Rust: Spare Tire well
cbdo Rust: On the rocker panels around the jacking points.rocker
cbdo Rust: Bottoms of the doors on the horizontal part, inside the exterior panel.

cbdo Rust Inside: If carpets are loose, pull them up to check the floor pans inside -
cbdo Check Parking Break: Should release easily and completely.
cbdo Check neck of the Ell fitting on the top radiator connector.
cbdo Fuel pumps are mildly noisy, but not too loud or unsteady. It's plastic unless an all-metal radioator has been fitted, and is a known week point. - cbdo


RickM Check excessive play in steering. Be aware of "loose" (excessive play) steering as it could be an inexpensive adjustment, coupler or as expensive as a new/rebuilt steering gear box.
RickM Check all bushings These are heavy cars
RickM Check all mounts These are heavy cars
RickM check all ball joints These are heavy cars
RickM check sway bar links These are heavy cars
RickM check shocks These are heavy cars
RickM check all other things rubber? These are heavy cars

Mark300SL main key switch. Common to have to replace it.

Radio: Balance; volume;
Radio: Speakers
Horn
Blinkers
Windows
Window Wipers
Window Wiper Fluid.
Windscreen; Scratches; chips.
tecqboy Seat back releases

Momo Both of the little roller blinds over the ashtray area have broken. The handle comes away from the rest. I understand that this is common.
Momo The headrest motor
The little air bladders in the orthopedic seats inflate all the way and deflate as well



Signs of Accidents
Body panel gaps not aligned throughout.
Welding/damage to front and rear panels
Welding/damage under rear seats or boot
Respray on plastic trim window seals, and under door handles
Poor paintwork quality mismatch/patchy/ bubbles under paint
Panel damage/bodyfillers
Damaged/ compressed chassis
Rusty sills/wheel arches
Bent steering wheel
Water leak in boot, sun roof leak
Lock changes, or locks that have been tampered with
Excessive tyre wears
Car pulls to side
Discoloured hood
Check for matching upholstery and under new seat covers


PreStart
Ensure the engine is cold before you start by placing your hand on it.
Abnormal noise:
Cold start engine
Starter motor
Camshaft / crankshaft / Tappets
Exhaust
Idling cold / hot
Blue smoke
Check all fluids / Excessive fumes








Bitmap
Trouble Spots Bitmap
Average Replacement Cost
Automatic transmission: The automatic transmission jerks when placed in drive or reverse or makes a grunting noise as the fluid deteriorates requiring a drain and refill (of at least 70 percent of the fluid) with revised ATF. (1997-99) A/C Compressor 655
Alternator 440
Brakes: The ABS (antilock brake system) light may come on intermittently and the charging-system light may also come on, but very dim, if the alternator is not charging sufficiently and electrical loads are high. (1990-2002) Automatic Transmission or Transaxle 1525
Brakes 810
Clutch: The clutch pedal may stick on 30SL models due to heat boiling the fluid. A countermeasure, insulated, slave cylinder is required. (1990) Clutch, Pressure Plate, Bearing 0
Constant Velocity Joints 1405
Engine stalling: The engine may stall when the transmission is shifted into gear due to water entering, and corroding, the neutral safety switch. (1992) Exhaust System 785
Radiator 610
None: Prior to 1994, engine compartments on the 600SL were not treated with antirust coatings. If desired, a wax type coating only should be applied after thorough cleaning. (1990-94) Shocks and/or Struts 2340
Timing Chain or Belt 400
None: The hot film mass-airflow sensors have a history of failure often caused by ill-fitting air filters or housing covers and by damaged protective screens located in front of the airflow sensor. (1990-1999)

Timing belt: Timing-chain tensioner weakness causes knocking and rattling from the front of the engine, especially when hot. (1997-98)

Valve cover leaks: During aggressive driving, especially in turns, oil can get into the air filter-housing requiring a vented valve cover. (1990)

Valve cover leaks: Oil weeps at head gaskets, leaks at valve cover gaskets (1990-95), rear end caps (1990-97), oil-pan gaskets (1990-92).

Water leak: Rain water drips on the starter causing failure requiring a redesigned water drain. (1998-99) Also, water leaks into the molding at the top of the windshield (1999), between A-pillar and soft top (1997), at the A-pillar on hardtops (1994), at the roof near the front doors on hardtops (1994), and from the outside mirrors (1990-95).

Water leak: The central locking system fails from leaks in the system allowing moisture to form in the lines which freezes in cold weather. (1990-02)

Wheels: In tight turns, the drive wheels may chirp due to the limited-slip differential. The problem can be reduced by removing one of the clutch plates. (1990-97)



Bitmap
NHTSA Recall History
1990-92: During removal/installation of the air filter housing the preformed vacuum hose may be misrouted, resulting in loss of brake power assist. 1996: The drive-belt pulley can crack. If it breaks, the car will be without engine cooling, battery charging, and/or power steering. 1997: The electrical-ignition filament of the airbag gas generator can become corroded in a very humid environment.

[Cap'n Carageous]

Daymmnn. Thanks David!! That's a motherlode of info!!! A lot of it would apply to any car but thanks to all for providing the specifics to the SL. Great info!! (although almost enough to scare one away!!)

[cbdo]

Just as a point of clarification: The comments above that appear from me are based on my experience with my 107. Though there may be some aspects that would apply to a 129 also, interpret carefully.

[DavidWeis]

Thanx, Cap'n.

I took looking for my new baby very seriously.
Good luck in your hunt, and if your in the NY area, go to the Teterboro airport. there are many Mercedes, including SL's at wholesale prices in a great big warehouse there. ;-)


D

[anc4]

do you know the name of the warehouse in nj? does it have a website, thanx

[DavidWeis]

I guess I let the car out of the bag..huh?
Want to buy a car, and what ot know what the wholesale price is without being a dealer? Go to www.galves.com
It is the book of the month for new car purchases..In other words, what the car wholesales for.
Anyway, the wholesale place is in the same building as Galves. I actually met Mr. Galves..>Nice guy.

Wholesale cars & Galves Auto Price List, Inc
430 Industrial Ave.
Teterboro NJ 07608

[Gilly]

Cap'n:
I would seriously look into the last car BobTerry mentioned. Those 300SL with manual tranny cars are cool!

Gilly