W107 77 450sl Rear suspension sags - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

joelpdavis · #1 01-22-2004, 06:48 PM

I have a 77 450sl that has the rear of the car sagging lower than the front of the car.
Is this a normal sagging in the springs?
Would this also effect the poos braking (skidding) oif the front wheels during hard braking?

Anyone else experience this?

Thanks.

Joel

77 450sl
92 500sel

RickM · #2 01-23-2004, 12:19 PM

Joel,

This may answer all your questions.....

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=71225

If you have questions let me know.

#3 01-25-2004, 04:53 AM

RickM, interesting post you referred us to. I'm still not sure how high the rear end is intended to be on my car. I have an 82 500 SL with 121K. Replaced the shocks with Bilstein comfort but have done little else on the rear end. How do I know when the diff mount should be replaced? Will it affect the height? Is there a specified height at manufacture?

Thanks for your input, all.

Rich Mayer
82 500 SL

joelpdavis · #4 01-25-2004, 12:33 PM

I called Phillip at the Mercedesshop.com and he suggested I replace the rear coil springs since I had already done the shocks all around.
I should recevie them in a few days; when I replace them, I'll post the results.

Thanks.
Joel

RickM · #5 01-26-2004, 05:41 PM

As you can see in my posted link I compared the old springs to the new 560 SL springs in a pic with measurements. There is quite a difference.

Joel: Can you measure the height of the new and old springs for a comparison. I'm curious what the rears will come out to. I was told the new 380SL springs were the same height as 560s but less taught. Also, A pic would be great too. Thanks.

Rich: I'm not an expert but I doubt that the Diff mounts will make any obvious difference in height. Also, when I did the sub frame bushings I noticed no difference. The springs are where it's at.

dmorrison · #6 01-26-2004, 07:10 PM

joelpdavis

If your going to do the springs you SHOULD use the Klann or Sir Tool compressor. You can rent it from ************************.
If your going to all the trouble to pull out the springs. Consider replacing the trailing arm bushings ($12.00 each a total of 4) and the subframe bushings ( $93 per car) And the rear differential mount ( $60.00). The big obstacle to the trailing arm bushings and the subframe bushings ( they can be R+R with the springs installed but its easier with them out) is the coil spring. It will take you some time to do the bushings. 2-3 hours per side if you a DIYer. Then the car should ride like new. When you replace the spring. Mercedes put some hose around the end of the spring, at least in the 123 they did, which I figured was use for sound deadening. If you find it on your car you can buy the hose at the dealer.
As I said removing the coil spring is usually the biggest PITA to a complete rebuild. So if your doing it, spend the few hours it will take to completely do the rear suspension.
Do a search on rear suspension rebuild. I described in detail the 123 rebuild. Your suspension is very similar to the 123. Make sure you have the tools needed and give yourseld a couple of days.

Good Luck

Dave

RickM
When I got the new 123 front springs made by Lemforder. They were taller then the OEM replacements. I called Lemforder in England to make sure that the units I had were for my application, the 123. They tod me that they were. The height will be a different size but the springs were designed for the US 123 that I had.

The rear springs are
The 560SL uses a 116 324 10 04
The 380SL calls for a 107 324 03 04

RickM · #7 01-27-2004, 09:58 AM

Thanks for the info Dave...and great advice. Let's see if a can assist further as well.

I agree on the springs being a PITA. I had to purchase an internal spring compressor to do the job. It was a generic type and worked fine but the models mentioned by Dave may work more easily. BTW, after I purchased the compressor I found out that Autozone lends these out....for free (with deposit).

Regarding the sub frame bushings: One of the websites with detailed instructions on replacing is now a pay site. I may have some printed....let me know if interested. The trick with these is using a threaded rod, large washers and nuts to get then back in.

erubin · #8 02-06-2004, 11:38 PM

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I'm about to do the rear subframe bushings on my 107. I guess I should start scrounging around for a threaded rod (metric) to pull along the bushing? I want to get setup with the necessary tools before I dive in and wonder if it's really needed. Would a bottle jack work as well?

Photos of rear bushings:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=86030