I purchased this ML-320 new in 2000. At the time they came filled with regular motor oil. They indicated that the oil need not be changed for about 10,000 miles. Coming from the old school of 3000 mile oil changes, I did not buy into the plan and changed it at 5000 miles. Then at 10,000 they switched to synthetic Mobile 1 0W-40.

I changed it at the 10,000 mile interval since and now have 50,000 on it.

What do the experts say about this 10.000 interval with synthetic? How is engine ware etc. I'm planning on keeping this another 50 - 75 K (I hope)!

If there oil changes were not $130 a pop I'd just change it every 5000 miles.

Perhaps I could have someone other than a Mercedes dealer do every other change at a sensible price.

Thanks in advance for your input.

My story is similar to yours. My 2000 ML had regular oil that was changed at 5K, Then got synthetic at around 10K. But, since then the FSS has counted down to 2K after about 7500 miles traveled. Knowing that the dealer would change the oil anytime after FSS reached 2K, I had it changed. I don't think your interval would make any significant difference. I too plan to drive the ML for quite a while longer. I've never had any oil consumption so I'm not concerned about the oil changes and longevity. The rest of the vehicle's parts are another story!
PS. you can do your own oil changes for about $50. But, you'll need to develop a home-made oil funnel or get a top-sider oil extraction tool to avoid a big mess.

What type of other problems have you had?
I just ordered a new Mass Air Sensor as the CEL light came on and they told me the code indicated that the sensor is bad. They wanted $468.00 installed and I have a new one ordered for $165 plus shipping, It takes a screw driver and about 2 minutes to replace it.

So far we have been lucky with no other problems in 50K.

Wow, its hard to remember. I had a '98 that had many problems too (traded it for the '00) But here's the list as best as I can recall:
brake light switch
window switches
glove box door (twice)
defroster vent broken
Fuel filter upgrade
Brake jobs (first set at only 20K miles!) Switched to Mintex on second set and I'm still running them at 64K.
numerous squeeks
sunroof rattles
washer reservoir cracked
transmission conductor plug seal leak
coil failure
battery failure
power steering recall

OK, so most of it was covered under warranty, but I've had many toyota's. Several of them went over 100K without ever getting worked on! not even brakes! I'm out of full warranty now and it's scary.

My, you have had a lot of issues, the type of issues that lead one to think Mercedes really dropped the Quality mind set that they have had for years.

I wonder if the in Alabama is a factor or if it is just poor quality engineering.

I've owned 8 Mercedes over the years, usually purchased 3 - 4 years old and 6 of the 8 were Diesel Power.

I sold a beautiful 1993 300D and purchased this 2000 ML-320.

My wife drives the ML daily and I drive it on a rare occassions.

All the reading and investigation I have done seems to point at serious quality issues.

Wish I would have kept the 300D ! (5 cylinder turbo)

I do recall the window washer tank being replaced but I believe that is all until this CEL light indicating the Mass Air Flow sensor is faulty.

The MAS should be here today so I'll find out if that turns the light off after we drive it and let it auto adapt.

I'm getting to the point that I think one should buy a vehicle with the best and longest warranty as long as the safety ratings are desent.

Replacement parts on all vehicles are just unreasonable in my opinion for what you have to pay for the vehicle. It's like buying a house!

What State do you live in? We are in Northern Ohio South of Toledo.

As far a the quality issues, I don't think that the Alabama assembly plant has anything to do with the problems. Thru two ML's all of the problems have been part failures. If you bought your ML used, maybe many of the problems had been resolved. I'm west of St. Louis MO. Luckily, we have a good dealership here.
Oh yeah, how did you know you needed the MAS? And, where did you order it from?

Bought the ML new in 2000

CEL came on at 50050 miles, dealer read the OBDII code that indicated the MAS was out of range. They reset it and said it may or may not fix it, it did not.

So I found a new MAS on Ebay motors for $165.00.

Just search Ebay motors and Nass Air Sensors and you should find some. Make sure it's the right part number!

Dealer wants $465,00 installed. Hope it fixes it.

Someone in this news group had 2 of them for sale. $100 each

I understand that it is possible to clean the mass airflow sensor with a little spray electronics cleaner. Turns out little fibers from the air filter and other misc debris can coat the sensor causing the sensor to malfunction.

What have you got to loose, you can’t wreak it more

Yes, I tried to clean this one twice. First with an utrasonic cleaner and purified water (the jewery type utrasonic). then I used alcohol and tried wiping the surfaces. Neither were successful.

Probably depends on how much deteriation has taken place. The interesting thing is that mine failed right after the 50,000 service which could have been dirt getting into the air intake after the air filter was replaced (Who knows !)

I once cleaned a Volvo MAS (a Bosch also, heated wire design too) using an electronics cleaner and helped it out some. The thing to remember is that these MAS (I'm still used to calling them air mass meters) are not on-off works/not-works items necessarily. Mis-measuring the airflow can cause a host of problems. They can cause your engine to run rich, just the gas savings over a couple months time would pay for your MAS. I would buy a new MAS as cheaply as possible, install it, and go to AutoZone and have them reset the OBDII code. Your engine computer will have to readjust over time and your driveability and fuel mileage should improve over time.

No positive or negative affect when I cleaned my MAF.

__________________
Lenny

There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games. --Ernest Hemingway

'10 GL550/'04 BMW 545/'99 BMW 323/'98 ML320/'87 VW GTI (race)

Replaced the MAS meter this eveing, The CEL was on and continues to be on after replacing the MAS.

Was told that after several days of driving it will re adapt and the light should go out after 40 or so cycles of the on/off of the ignition switch, Can anyone verify this as correct? or should I have it reset at AutoZone?

Thank you

Its free to take it to AutoZone and get it reset. That way you will know if there are any other codes, too, without having to wait for the key cycles.

ok perhpas you can wreak it worse sorry

Well I replaced the MAS last night on the ML, the CEL stayed on.
Was advised to drive it for a few days and after about 40 cycles of the ignition switch it should go out.
Or
Goto Auto Zone and have them reset it.
So I visited AutoZone and they scoped it with their OBD II.
Read 4 codes MAS, left and right fuel trim and air temperature sensor malfunction.

They tried 3 times to reset the codes but their reader kept coming back with all 4 codes present.

So I thanked them and drove away.

The CEL was OUT !!! Wonderfull !!!

I'm guessing the ML had to be turned off (the ignition switch) and restarted in order to finalize the resetting sequence.

The engine was NOT running while connected to the OBD II reader.

Anyone have that experience?

Thanks