ML 320 2000 power window switch and door power lock - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

serge · #1 12-27-2004, 05:01 PM

Hi every one, the power window switch for the driver side works when lowering window but not able to pull up only on driver side, I bought the switch I want to do it my self.

Also the driver side door lock wont lock when using the remote key all other locks work I can lock it manualy, but not with the remote lock and unlock car door opener, I belive its the actuator, the door has air bag and
I don,t know how to disable it so it wont go off.

any help on this two issues will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Gilly · #2 12-27-2004, 07:59 PM

The window switch unit is definitely a problem area, I'm surprised we don't have more "power window switch" posts on this forum. 2002 is all different, but the 98 through 2001 window switch pack is a real problem. MB keeps saying "oh, the one we have out now is good", but I'm skeptical. It's not a terribly expensive part, under $50 I think. Not hard to change either. If you're out of warranty and want to try it yourself, and you have the apptitude, go for it. Hardest part is getting the crap dug out of your center console storage area!
Remove all that stuff, remove the 2 phillips screws holding the container down and remove the container. Usea big screwdriver to pry up the rear edge of the wooed trim panel and it will release.
Set the parking brake, turn the key to "on", step on the service brake and pull the shifter back, this will allow clearance to pull the wood trim plate back, then tilt it to the side to remove the electrical connectors, including the one for the lighter and bulb socket. The 2 large electrical connectors on the switch plate have large tabs that are easy to unlock, these are the 2 at the right and left side. The 2 smaller ones on the front and rear have smaller tabs that are harder to see, you can use a small screwdriver to release these, or maybe your fingernail.
On some later models, there is also a small pink wire that is seperate that needs to be removed, I think this was in 99 when Babysmart was introduced. This uses the small tab to release also.
When the connectors are removed, you can remove the whole wooden trim panel. There are 4 small latches, 2 front, 2 rear, that retain the shift plate to the underside of the wooden panel. Carefully unclip these fasteners and you can remove the switch plate. You'll notice that there is provisions in both the wooden panel and the switch to allow the screwing down of the switch plate. In general I treat this as a opportunity to continue using the wooden trim panel in the event the clips on the wooden panel are broken; in general I don't use these unless neccesary.
Reinstallation is opposite of disassembly.
You'll notice I didn't recommend removing the black collar around the shifter when prying up the wooden trim, I just let that come off when removing the wood panel, rather than taking the risk of scratching the wood by removing it seperately. You will need to reinstall this collar seperately after reinstalling the wooden panel of course. When reinstalling the wooden panel, you'll notice the 2 tabs at the wooden panels leading edge, these engage into the 2 small slots at the rear base of the front storage area, then just push down on the wooden panel, first at the rear, then the middle area on either side of the shifter.
Gilly
____________

serge · #3 12-27-2004, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilly

The window switch unit is definitely a problem area, I'm surprised we don't have more "power window switch" posts on this forum. 2002 is all different, but the 98 through 2001 window switch pack is a real problem. MB keeps saying "oh, the one we have out now is good", but I'm skeptical. It's not a terribly expensive part, under $50 I think. Not hard to change either. If you're out of warranty and want to try it yourself, and you have the apptitude, go for it. Hardest part is getting the crap dug out of your center console storage area!
Remove all that stuff, remove the 2 phillips screws holding the container down and remove the container. Usea big screwdriver to pry up the rear edge of the wooed trim panel and it will release.
Set the parking brake, turn the key to "on", step on the service brake and pull the shifter back, this will allow clearance to pull the wood trim plate back, then tilt it to the side to remove the electrical connectors, including the one for the lighter and bulb socket. The 2 large electrical connectors on the switch plate have large tabs that are easy to unlock, these are the 2 at the right and left side. The 2 smaller ones on the front and rear have smaller tabs that are harder to see, you can use a small screwdriver to release these, or maybe your fingernail.
On some later models, there is also a small pink wire that is seperate that needs to be removed, I think this was in 99 when Babysmart was introduced. This uses the small tab to release also.
When the connectors are removed, you can remove the whole wooden trim panel. There are 4 small latches, 2 front, 2 rear, that retain the shift plate to the underside of the wooden panel. Carefully unclip these fasteners and you can remove the switch plate. You'll notice that there is provisions in both the wooden panel and the switch to allow the screwing down of the switch plate. In general I treat this as a opportunity to continue using the wooden trim panel in the event the clips on the wooden panel are broken; in general I don't use these unless neccesary.
Reinstallation is opposite of disassembly.
You'll notice I didn't recommend removing the black collar around the shifter when prying up the wooden trim, I just let that come off when removing the wood panel, rather than taking the risk of scratching the wood by removing it seperately. You will need to reinstall this collar seperately after reinstalling the wooden panel of course. When reinstalling the wooden panel, you'll notice the 2 tabs at the wooden panels leading edge, these engage into the 2 small slots at the rear base of the front storage area, then just push down on the wooden panel, first at the rear, then the middle area on either side of the shifter.
Gilly
____________

Thanks for your advice.

Litton · #4 12-28-2004, 09:55 AM

This was kind of a timely post. Yesterday, my '98 started to exhibit an interesting problem with the left right rear window...it just decided to lower itself about 3". At first I thought my wife had hit the button, then it did it again.

My temporary solution was to move the window lock switch to the "lock" position and that took care of the Gremlin. Is this also a symptom of the switches Gilly was referring to?

Jim W. · #5 12-28-2004, 01:37 PM

Along with Gilly's information, the following link gives a detailed description and pictures for the window switch problem. I have used this and it is easy to do.

http://www.grill.org/rodney/mclass/mlswitch/index.html

Jim W.

Gilly · #6 12-28-2004, 05:59 PM

Litton: This isn't a common thing to have happen, BUT I do believe that already in 1999 the rear of the console was redesigned because it was found that it was too easy to bump the switches in the rear of the center console (that the rear seat passengers would use) and inadvertantly roll down a rear window.

Quote:

an interesting problem with the left right rear window...

Was it the left or right? I would say the fault would depend on whichever side rolled down.

Gilly

sunedog · #7 01-08-2005, 10:14 PM

Just a quick note of thanks to Gilly and Rodney (?) for their excellent descriptions of how to make this fix. It took me about 30 minutes including cleaning out all the crud that had accumulated under the panel.

Litton · #8 01-09-2005, 06:07 AM

Gilly, it is the left rear. I tryed to dupilcate hitting the switch with my elbow while sitting in the passanger seat...it wasn't easy but I could hit the switch.

I don't remember her mentioning a problem when she was driving without a passenger.

Mine is a '98.