Time came to replace the rear rotors on the ML. Took the wheel/caliper off and the single allen bolt as well as ajusted the ebrake. The rotor will not budge at all! Tried spraying PB Blaster, applied heat, and banged with a hammer. Is there anything else that needs to be removed or does anyone have any tips for getting these things off?!?!

I took mine off using all your methods, had to let it sit on jackstands and let the spray work for a few days. Also drove a small punch between the rotor and hub through the lug bolt holes to start it loosening just a milimeter or so at a time. It was a pain due to corrosion.

I used PB Blaster in the bolt holes. Only too 10 minutes to loosen it up. If that doesn't work, get a bigger hammer.

I used a large 3-arm pulley puller. When the puller was tightened down real good I tapped the side of the rotor base. A couple of sharp hits and it would pop off with some force - take care if doing this. I did not worry about distorting the rotors since I was replacing them.

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99 ML430

I used a normal hammer. The key is to hit the rotor where the bolt holes are. If all else fails, something will happen to the rotor, but why do you care if you are replacing it? In all seriousness, though, I banged around the holes (where the points of contact are weakest) and had no problems getting the rotors off after about 5 or 6 solid swings. On another note, anyone know where I can find some cheap rear rotors for a 98 ML320?

Chris Warner, Lt, USAF
AC-130 Pilot

Put a single wheel bolt loosely into the hub, get a 10lb mallet and hit the rotor where the caliper used to lie (Very hard). Make sure you've got the park brake off while you're removing the rotor, I've seen that before.

I once hit a rotor off even though I'd forgoten to remove the hex screw, I broke a small piece around the screw and got the rest of the rotor off......I wondered why I had to hit it more and once for a change

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Alex.

MB Tech
Sydney, Australia
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