If you haven't changed your plates lately, you'll probably have some fun.

The lady I bought my ML from couldn't get the screws loose. Neither could I; they were siezed. So I drilled the heads off so she could get her plate back.

So I take the lower interior door panel off to check it out. What a damn stupid way of doing things. Jeesh - if this is what newer Benzes are made of, I'll have to snatch up a bunch of 126s.

This is how it works - the door is notched out with a hexagonal hole. The holder is some type of alloy, also shaped hexagonally. The piece is inserted in the hole, then a screw is screwed in the license plate side, drawing the back piece up and spreading it at the hole, similar to a pop rivet.

So, to remove the piece, you have to get in there with a Dremel tool and grind it out. Of course, as you grind the piece, you also grind on the door a bit. So then, sfter you are done, the metal has to be protected with paint. Stoopid, simply stoopid. What the heck were they thinking?

Edited - I need to start using that free spell checker!!!

__________________
Thank You!
Fred
2009 ML350
2004 SL600
2004 SL500
1996 SL600
2002 SLK32
2005 CLK320 cabrio
2003 ML350
1997 C280 Sport

Yes, sometimes I wonder myself, how complicated MD designers make the simple things look. Mechanisms that are simple (and work more efficiently when made simple) are made extremely complex by MB designers - just look at the cupholders in most MB cars, then look at the lowering mechanism for the ML's middle seats. The complexity is staggering!!!

The holders are rivet nuts, look them up on the web. I personally think they are a good design if used properly. The main issue is the "cold" welding that can occur due to dissimilar metals between the rivet nut and screw. A little never seize cures this issue. As for fixing, I believe you would just drill out just like a rivet. You will need a rivet nut tool to install new ones, which are available from the dealer. I have not done this myself yet but have done the research. Still waiting for the right time to purchase the right tool. Anyone have a tool recommendation? Snap on has one for around $50.

Can't just drill it out, it does not go into a round hole. The hole in the rear panel is hexagonal., as is the fastening device.

Yes, if they used aircraft rivnuts, it would be what I would consider a good design. These are not riv-nuts. I've installed hundreds of real riv-nuts with riv-nut tools.

The only way to remove these is to grind the expanded part off the back. Then you can push it out the hexagonal hole.

Installation, on the other hand, is somewhat straight-forward. Insert the device, coat a stainless screw with anti-sieze, hold the device with a socket or wrench, and tighten the screw with a good Phillips screwdrive bit. Doesn't take much effort to deform the flange metal to make it tight. Remove the screw, install license plate, using anti sieze on the stainless screw.

But it is silly. It is a system that will fail at least 50% of the time. Very poor engineering. And the repair involves possible compromising the metal protection in the surrounding area.

__________________
Thank You!
Fred
2009 ML350
2004 SL600
2004 SL500
1996 SL600
2002 SLK32
2005 CLK320 cabrio
2003 ML350
1997 C280 Sport

Have you removed yours to see a hexagonal hole? The reason I ask is that I need to replace one on my 97 E320. It was stuck in there but I was able to get break it loose but the whole rivet nut spins. Unless the tolerances are rather large between the hole and rivet nut, I do not see how I got it to spin. Of course, this particular one could have been replaced prior to me owner this car too.

If grinding versus drilling is required, I am considering grind off on the back side. Paint will probably come off so I would treat with a rust prevent product. I have used a product called Rust Bullet and really like it.

Yes, the "rivnuts" spun in the hexagonal hole. The metal is pretty thin right there at the door panel, and rounds out, for lack of a better term.

I used a Dremel tool with a very thin carbide (I think) (or maybe diamond grit). Holding the plate side with a pliers, I, like a dentist, ground away the displaced metal. if you look real close, you'll see that via compresion, the metal expands right at the hole or body panel, very similar to a pop rivet. It takes maybe 3 minutes on each fastener. You only have to grind away the expanded part, and then simply wiggle it out of the hole.

And you'll see that ebcause of the spinning, paint is removed on both sides of the body panel. You'll have to treat it with something.

__________________
Thank You!
Fred
2009 ML350
2004 SL600
2004 SL500
1996 SL600
2002 SLK32
2005 CLK320 cabrio
2003 ML350
1997 C280 Sport

Does anyone have the part number for said riv-nuts? I had to remove the license plate and trunk handle chrome on my 95 'E300D so my body guy could paint the trunk lid, and every single screw was seized. I had to grind them all and now I'm looking to reassemble and I can't seem to find them or the screws in the EPC. While I'm asking, I could also use the part number for the screws that attach the chrome handle to the trunk lid, as well as the screws for the license plate.

Thanks,

__________________
J.B. Hebert

--------------------------
Current Vehicles:
'76 Ford Bronco
'78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8
'80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe (For Sale)
'94 Ford Explorer
'95 Mercedes E300D Sportline+

More than likely your best option would be your dealer. When purchases some a while back, it was a stocked item.

And probably the least expensive part you will ever buy from a dealer at that!
Was for me so far.

__________________
Thank You!
Fred
2009 ML350
2004 SL600
2004 SL500
1996 SL600
2002 SLK32
2005 CLK320 cabrio
2003 ML350
1997 C280 Sport