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#1
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Bilsteins Bumpstop or No Bumpstop
I purchase new Bilsteins for the Front of my 99 ml. They came with bumpstops in the package and the old shocks had these as well. Some posts say not to use these, that the Bilsteins have them internally. Is this true?? It seems that I feel quite a bit of the road through the front with the stops on.
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#2
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I just did my 98 ML with Bilsteins and after careful measurements of travel, I left them off. It would seem they would severely limit the range of the front suspension if they were installed
Jim in Phoenix |
#3
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Severely? Arent they only half inch thick?
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#4
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#5
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#6
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Bump stop photo
Here is a picture of the bump stop I found under the dust shield on the OEM Arvin front shocks of my 98 ML320. They are the reddish knobs on the right end of the two front shocks, and are almost 1 1/2 inches tall and when you figure the mechanical leverage, they would limit travel over 2 inches!
Do not put these on the Bilsteins as they have internal bump stops. |
#7
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How do they ride now?
As I mentioned, the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) for my front and rear shocks (98 ML 320 with 138,000 miles) was Arvin. The shocks were junk and would let the ML bottom out over speed humps at any speed above 5 mph. I used Bilsteins in front and went with Sachs in the back because they came with springs mounted for half the price of Bilsteins. I paid $151 for the pair with no sales tax and free shipping. ***************
In the picture I put in my previous reply, you will note that I have removed the springs from the old rear struts. I did not reuse the springs, I merely wanted to feel the old shock's resistance, which was zilch! I bought the car about 18 months ago and drove it about 15,000 miles with those crappy shocks. I can't believe the ML rode as well as it did. Now, those same speed humps can be taken at 30 mph plus with complete control. Cruising at 80 is smoooooth and easy, with the Michelin Cross Terains mounted. Tire wear has never been a problem but I run about 36 PSI cold at all four corners. Regards, Jim in Phoenix |
#8
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Well,
I put Bilsteins on the front and Sachs on the back. I did the labor on the front myself, but paid my mechanic for the rears. (For $130 I figured I'd let him do it) I really haven't seen an improvement in the ride. I feel lots of road noise and it feels that every bump I hit shudders through the entire vehicle. Any ideas, maybe the air pressure in the tires is too much? |
#9
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However, I have not figured a way I could get the springs off safely without damaging them. |
#10
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The only safe way to remove springs is with a spring compressor. Trying to do it any other way with a makeshift tool is VERY dangerous. Many regular chain auto parts stores have loaner/rental spring compressors. Otherwise, most auto shops (even the chains) will charge you around 20 a piece to pull the springs off.
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#11
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removing springs from rear shocks
We are talking 98 ML 320 shocks here, nothing else is a given!
I wrapped the entire shock assembly by rolling it up in some scrap carpet about 4' X 6'. Then I reached in, using a socket, 12" extention, and my impact wrench to spin the nut off that retains the spring. It was a small wump but the shock didn't move and the spring maybe jumped about 3 inches. It appears the spring has lost most of it's compression by the time the nut comes off. Nothing is ever truely safe so you do this at your own risk Regards, Jim in Phoenix |
#12
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Your technique is easy and safe. I did this outside so if the shock shot out the rear it would be no problem. Each shock did shoot out the rear, with nothing happening at the front when the nuts were removed. The springs compress about 90 mm when mounted to the shock. Those nuts are no competition for an impact putting out 650 ft. lbs of torque. Both or my shock were completely dead, no rebound after compression at all and very easy to compress manually. On of these days I’m going to get a set of bilsteins to mount the springs to, but for now there is no hurry since the ones I have on now only have 7K miles on them. Thanks, Ron |
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