I just changed the rear shocks on my 2000 ML430 at 84,000 miles. I'm pretty confident I replaced the shocks properly, however the rear sits noticeably higher than it did before, approximately 6 1/2 inches between the tire and outside fender well. Prior to the change, I'm going to guess the rear sat about 5 to 5 1/2 inches. The nut to compress the shock is also pretty much at the same position as the old shocks were. I'm concerned this will effect the handling and performance. I am also concerned I might have to get an alignment. The left rear coil was broken on the old ones, but outside of that I didn't notice a difference between the new and old ones. Could I possibly have overtightened a bolt that would cause this? Has anyone who changed their shocks experienced this and should I be concerned?

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Steve32

Did you tighten all the suspension bolts when the vehicle's suspension was unloaded? If so that may be the cause of your problem.

They bolts are supposed to be tighten when the vehicle is on the ground or on an alignment type lift so the suspension is loaded.

Which bolts do you refer to? It wasn't under complete vehicle load, but I slid the jack under the lower A-arm and suspended the vehicle while tightening. If I have to "reset" the bolts, which ones would you suggest?

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Steve32

The bolts I'm refering to are the ones that attach to the lower wishbone and upon which the suspension moves up and down.

I put the rear tires on cinder blocks and loosened the lower bolts. I also loosened the sway bar bracket and bushings where it mounts to the frame. Let the load of the vehicle ride on the suspension and even bounced the truck's suspension a couple times in case a bolt was hung up. This did not help. The new shocks are only showing 3 threads more than the old ones, about a quarter inch max. Any other ideas?

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Steve32

Only an idea but could you have been supplied with shocks/springs for the later (2002) ML?........i know the suspension on the later model was modified.

If you like, i will measure the distance between the tyre and fender wall on my 2002 ML for you to compare?

He clearly didnt re-use the original springs (-:

Replacing a broken spring would very likely raise the ride height. So would the new gas filled shocks, assuming the old ones had lost some of their pressure. I am betting you are just back to design height now.

Drive it and watch for unusual tire wear at the next tire rotation.


Jim in Phoenix

Assuming I am back to the original or normal ride height, what other rear suspension lowering adjustments are there besides the top center shock nut? I'm only looking to go down about 3/4 inch.

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Steve32

steve32 -- Sorry. I don't know how you would lower the rear suspension.

But, as a point of reference, I did recently replace my rear shocks and today I measured exactly 32" from the floor to the edge of the wheel well. I tried to measure to the tire, but figured we could be comparing apples to oranges. We may have different profile tires or we may be measuring to a different point on the tire. I did not notice any difference in ride height when I did mine, but I wasn't looking for it.

However, I do have my own concern about my rear shock replacement. I put new Bilsteins on my 99 ML 320 with 150K miles. I notice a slightly perceptable "thunk" from the right rear when I go over a small obstruction (i.e rolling from my driveway onto the street or crossing a speedbump at low speed). I did tighten the bolts on the lower wishbones with the axles parallel to the ground. Torqued all the nuts to spec except the top center shock nut. It was put on with an impact gun by the mechanic that swapped the coil springs to the new shocks for me.

Should I be worried?

I imagine it wouldn't hurt if you put a couple turns on the center nut, but how did your anti-sway bar bushings look, specifically the links. You would have had to remove/replace them when you did your shock replacement. I did my shocks at 84,000 miles and all the bushings were shot. This could cause the noise you speak of. This is also the culprit of that ever so common rear creaking/cracking sound as well. I paid less than $100 for all bushings. Yours are as well. Shoot me a private email if you want the name of the place, for respect to this forum.

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Steve32