Thanks to those who responed to my earlier post on the leaking transmission fluid on my 98 ML320. It is coming out of where those electrical wires go into tranny. I made an appointment at the shop to fix it. Tech told me about 3.5 hrs of labor to drain, replace o-rings on the inside & and outside and refill w/ tranny fluid. My question is, does this sound correct? This is not a dealer but a local indie. Closest dealer is 3hrs. The leak has quit for now I'm assuming the fluid has drained below the level of where the wires go in. Does anyone else believe they need to drain fluid or can they try and fix from the outside and top off the fluid. The fluid was just replaced w/in the last year so its new. Thanks for your thoughts.

Common problem, see http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1329641-13-pin-connector-gasket-leak.html?highlight=transmission+connector+leak Make sure to read the second page of post for a DIY. Hope this helps.

I'll have the shop start w/ this and see what happens. Do you have any idea how much fluid may have leaked out. I only found (2) puddles right away then mostly just a few drips here and there after driving for a bit.

Hey Azinn, If I'm reading the link to Benzworld correctly the shop should not have to pull the pan and drain the tranny? Right. Also according to the one guy it only took him about a half an hour to complete. any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks Ryan.

No need to drop the pan. I've heard of guys having the job done at the dealer for less than $100.00. It's a well known problem at the dealerships. My 2 cents.

Thanks for your help I really appreciate it, I'll suggest that to the shop when I take it in on tuesday.Ryan

Here's the Dealer Technical Bulletin.

Fix is either 0.5 or 0.6 hours

When I did mine, I had new connector with O-rings ready and just let it leak for the short time between removing the old connector and reinstalling the new one. Oil did not shoot out all over me.

Attached Files

transconnector.pdf (60.6 KB, 202 views)

__________________
Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

Kent: Thanks a million for posting the Star Tech Bulletin.

Since you've done this repair I have a question about the pictures (fig 1 and 2)

I have purchased the part and if I'm reading the bulletin correctly, you're supposed to snip off the outter tab.

The part I have already looks like figure 2. There is a tab but it is not higher than the bottom of the green A line.

Is figure 2, the "before" or "after" cutting the tab.

Thanks.

__________________
Jim

0

There is another new and updated part sometime within the last couple of months. The new P/N is: A.203.540.02.53. List Price is: US$7.00.

No snipping required when I did the install a few weeks ago.

PS - The DTB posted on the BW site is several years newer than the one posted above.

__________________
1973 280SE 4.5 (Sold)
1984 LWB 280GE (Sold)
2000 G500 NMLE - "Deep Throat"
2007 ML320 CDI (Sold)
2010 Porsche Cayenne S Transsyberia TipTronic (Sold)
2010 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (Sold and Sorely Missed)
2014 ML350 BTC
2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (On Order)

You may also find this to be helpful, especially Steps 6-12 and Figs 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 & 13.

http://www.installuniversity.com/mb/w203/w203/trans_oring.html

FWIW, I had about 1/2 liter of ATF pour out of the connector hole when I pulled the electrical connector. Elevating the front end would minimize this while also providing easier access.

Lube that new adapter well with ATF prior to installing. It's a VERY tight fit.

__________________
1973 280SE 4.5 (Sold)
1984 LWB 280GE (Sold)
2000 G500 NMLE - "Deep Throat"
2007 ML320 CDI (Sold)
2010 Porsche Cayenne S Transsyberia TipTronic (Sold)
2010 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (Sold and Sorely Missed)
2014 ML350 BTC
2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (On Order)