I bought a 2000 ML 270 CDI about six months back and have been having problems from the start. The major problem we are battling with is the all time favourite on the forum, ABS/ETS/BAS lights burning all the time. But first some History!

The car that I bought was standing in a barn of a farmer for about a year or more. The car dealer then collected it from the farmer and obviously the battery was stuffed. They then used a smaller battery to get the car going and drive it about 300Km (185 miles) back to town. Needless to say they needed to tow it more than half way.

The vehicle landed up at a local MB garage that started dissecting and fixing problems. As far as I know the turbo and all 5 injectors was replaced. They also replaced all the brake pads.

I then got the car initially and the famous lights were on (ABS/ETS/BAS). Took it back to the dealer and MB reset the error codes only to have the problem again in a day’s time. They told me that the computer gives an error code for the ESP pump being faulty. This is a R25000.00 job ($3125)

Two days ago I decided to take matters in my own hands and found this forum (great by the way). I read up on all the posts I could find on this specific problem. My verdict was to have the Brake light switch replaced, test the battery, reset the error codes by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes, do the steering reset and clean the ABS sensors on each wheel.

Needless to say after all that I still have the lights on. I start the car up and the lights are off. If I floor the gas, it either hooks in first gear or not, but the lights come on immediately – sometimes with loss of power until I re-start and sometimes just the lights. If I accelerate slowly, the lights stay off and the ABS works fine on gravel, but after about 3 tests the lights come on again. And every time any of these actions happen i need to stop and restart the engine to get the lights off, power back or get it out of first gear. The other thing that happens is that at roughly 120km/h (75mph) it starts jerking if you cruise. It happens on Cruise control and driving by foot.

Did you ever fix the problem , I think I am in the same position with the light now, I have replace the brake switch once about a year ago.

Let me know how it ended.

Thanks

Try swaping the relay for the hydralic unit. it is labeled in the fusebox,the one for the ac compressor is the same just swap them and try your test again, the realy will sometimes get damaged by the pump when the amp draw of the pump is too high. sometime the relay will fail and the pump will be fine, try that and let me know what happens. there are also some problems with the pressure sensor in the bottom of the brake master cylinder, which are cheap and easy to replace, and every now and then I find bad yaw rate and or acceleration sensors.

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97 e320 200k!

85 300sd

96 c280 sport for parts! pm your needs

Hi to everybody,
I was trying to find a used ABS computer for my ML320 2000model and hit on your nice forum reading for a problem like mine.
Sounds like you have my car with its problems....
At the begining the car was ok but a year later started faulting the sensors for the BAS ESP both of them.!
I have replased them for 800euros and since then all ok.
Few months ago the BAS ESP/ETS/ABS lights came on all together (shooting) at my eyes each time especialy at nights.
I went to mercedes shop for faults erase and trubleshooting. The doctor said that I need a new ABS computer for 1920euros.......because all other signals from brake swicth, wheel sensors and others were ok, but the main computer did not respond. I don't know but I don't like it, I think the doctor just want my money that is all.
I have decided to buy a used one and do some test like GizmoSA's tests and God help us.
I let you know guys after few days what happend.
Talk to you later.
Thanos