Actually fully draining a battery like that does do permanent damage to it....it'd be better to just get a new one most likely....or charge it back up and not expect it to last as long as it would have....I suppose its worth a try.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

It depends how far down it's voltage got. And we don't know. If we had a voltage reading on it then we could fathom a guess. Those factory batteries are pretty good so I would give it a good chance to be resurrected in this case.

__________________
1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

FWIW, MB has been using Absorbent Glass Mat, or AGM batteries for several years now. They behave differently than traditional lead-acid batteries. Take a look at the battery chargers available nowadays. The better ones have a setting specifically for charging AGM batteries.

Charging a stone-dead battery until the vehicle can be started without assistance is always my first choice, but go ahead and jump-start it if this isn't possible. My Roadside Tech's do a few dozen of these every month with virtually no problems.