Before I take the ML to shop for my dead driver side window, would like to know if there is any suggestion where I can check out first. My wife told me the dirver window was going up and down really slow in the last few days. When I looked at it, the window acted like there was not enough power for it to operate. Today, the window opened all the way but would not come back up. What should I do? Will a bad fuse take days to finally die? Maybe the motor conked out on me? Do anyone know how much approximately it will cost to fix it if I take it to the dealer? Any help will be appreciated.

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95 R129
04 Infiniti G35.5 BS
10 X204

Amazing! I have this exact problem. It got up to almost 50 degrees yesterday so I figured AH! I can roll down the window. Darn thing refused to go back up! After a bit of fiddling I figured that it would work if I pulled up and left. I think I remember reading somewhere that this is a known problem too. I'll check tomorrow.

Kuan

The window switch unit is definitely a problem area, I'm surprised we don't have more "power window switch" posts on this forum. 2002 is all different, but the 98 through 2001 window switch pack is a real problem. MB keeps saying "oh, the one we have out now is good", but I'm skeptical. It's not a terribly expensive part, under $50 I think. Not hard to change either. If you're out of warranty and want to try it yourself, and you have the apptitude, go for it. Hardest part is getting the crap dug out of your center console storage area!
Remove all that stuff, remove the 2 phillips screws holding the container down and remove the container. Usea big screwdriver to pry up the rear edge of the wooed trim panel and it will release.
Set the parking brake, turn the key to "on", step on the service brake and pull the shifter back, this will allow clearance to pull the wood trim plate back, then tilt it to the side to remove the electrical connectors, including the one for the lighter and bulb socket. The 2 large electrical connectors on the switch plate have large tabs that are easy to unlock, these are the 2 at the right and left side. The 2 smaller ones on the front and rear have smaller tabs that are harder to see, you can use a small screwdriver to release these, or maybe your fingernail.
On some later models, there is also a small pink wire that is seperate that needs to be removed, I think this was in 99 when Babysmart was introduced. This uses the small tab to release also.
When the connectors are removed, you can remove the whole wooden trim panel. There are 4 small latches, 2 front, 2 rear, that retain the shift plate to the underside of the wooden panel. Carefully unclip these fasteners and you can remove the switch plate. You'll notice that there is provisions in both the wooden panel and the switch to allow the screwing down of the switch plate. In general I treat this as a opportunity to continue using the wooden trim panel in the event the clips on the wooden panel are broken; in general I don't use these unless neccesary.
Reinstallation is opposite of disassembly.
You'll notice I didn't recommend removing the black collar around the shifter when prying up the wooden trim, I just let that come off when removing the wood panel, rather than taking the risk of scratching the wood by removing it seperately. You will need to reinstall this collar seperately after reinstalling the wooden panel of course. When reinstalling the wooden panel, you'll notice the 2 tabs at the wooden panels leading edge, these engage into the 2 small slots at the rear base of the front storage area, then just push down on the wooden panel, first at the rear, then the middle area on either side of the shifter.
Gilly

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