I have a 98' ML320. We bought it with about 32000 miles on it and it has been great. We have had really no problems with the vehicle, and I'm pretty picky.

My wife drives the vehicle most of the time. But I had it out the other day and noticed that when slowing down, like approaching a traffic light the downshift to low seems to be harsh. It shifts fine everywhere else but the last downshift before a stop.

My wife mentioned that she noticed this recently.

I searched for downshift posts but didn't find much. My first thought was to check the transmission fluid level. As it appears it is not possible to do this (no dipstick)

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Also, what is the red button on top of the transmission dipstick tupe cover?

Thanks

Marc

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1983' SL500 euro

Marc:
The red square button on the top of the dipstick tube cap is a breakable lock that holds the cap on. If it is broken off to remove the cap, the lock should be replaced. I believe the new ones are black instead of the original red color.
I too would say the fluid level is a good place to start, however one has to ask themselves where the fluid is going, know what I mean?
No stick is provided. One thing to remember is that the fluid used is a special fluid that you buy from MB. It is a synthetic fluid made by Shell in Germany. It's around $15/liter. I believe MB was afraid that shops would begin changing the oil to non-synthetic types, and that may be the reason behind a lock and no dipstick. The dipstick is available as a special tool. The checking procedure is very specific though, it is supposed to be checked at 80 degrees C. The temp is monitored via the MB shop diagnosis computer (SDS). It may also be a good idea to see if there are any trouble codes in the transmission computer that may explain the problem with your downshifts.

Gilly

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DUTCH:
There are some OBDII codes (PO codes) which will present themselves from the transmission in the engine control module, but on out test equipment the fault simply reads "see ETC", which means the fault is actually transmission related. I am unsure what the ramifications of these types of codes would be to a generic scan tool. I would assume a good enough generic scan tool would also allow access into the ETC for code readings. Or possibly a generic scan tool would give a fault description of the problem, rather than a reference code only. It's easy for us to simply switch from the engine control module and pick up the diagnosis at the ETC, maybe this works differently on a generic scanner.
On the condition of the fluid, you know I try to follow MB guidelines on things and I'm sure you know there is no replacement recommendation on the 722.6. If he bought it at 32,000 miles and is still under lets say 50,000, I really don't think the fluid is ready to be changed yet. i know we've had discussions about this and many will disagree with my view. I really think changing the fluid at anything much less than 100,000 miles really isn't helping that much.

Gilly

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The first generation ml320's had problems with the transfer case, did u change that under warranty? Its a $2,000 CAN job.. I got mines done.. see if your dealer have records of that being replaced...

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I don't know if it's a true problem. The torque distribution was changed from 50/50 to 48/52. The only "problem" was the vibration at low speed and full steering lock.

Kuan

Sorry for the oversight, I planned on including the fact that it now has 63000 miles.

Breakable lock eh? Well I broke it. The square red button was up and I pushed it down thinking this was some type of release for the cap but it stayed down. I broke off the flat square top of it trying to pull it back up.

I checked on fastlane, do you think that part is called an "ATF Cover Pin"?

You know, there's no documentation for this stuff at all in the manual. What is the proper method for removing this cap? I'm not saying it should be a service manual but we're talking simple stuff here, checking fluids and such.

When these cars are under warranty I always take them back to the dealer for everything, most of them have scheduled maintenance when you buy them. I've always enjoyed working on my cars. Just little stuff, replacing brakes, changing oil, tires, detailing, etc. keeping it like new. (even replaced an engine and transmission or two years ago)

I still enjoy it but, I have very little time for this these days, I kind of do it to get away from the day to day business grind. But everytime you try, you need a "special tool". And its always on a weekend when no one is open. Luckily my father-in-law is a MAC tool dealer but many times he doesn't have the part. Just changed oil in this vehicle and ran into that very problem, went to four different places to find the tool to remove the filter cap. So, what used to take an hour now takes the better part of a day by the time you track down parts, tools, and do the job. (Now its a special filter and fluid)

Maybe I'm just ranting now.

We've got a good dealer here too. Great service and follow up. They are about 30 miles away and they'll even come pick the cars up if I like. But, there is always some little annoying thing (that makes you wish you did it yourself) when they come back. Goes in for an oil change and comes back with a scratch in the wood console or marks in the door sill plate from stepping on it when getting in and out (I told you I was picky). These things were avoidable when you could do the maintenance yourself.

I read this post and realize, I'm starting to sound like my father.

Thanks for the responses.

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1983' SL500 euro

the red thing is called a locking pin and can be removed with a flat head screw driver. I bought 5 of them just in case I break them (very cheap), and I also have the dip stick (140 589 15 21 00), make sure your engine is hot when you check the oil level. 80 degrees celsius and it should be in the middle of the min and max mark. but as gilly said, transmisison fluid changes are not required..

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I had the same problem with my 98 E240.

The seal for the transmission computer sensor was leaking and the fluid was slowly being pushed up the wire to the computer under the hood. The mechanic replaced the seal and since it was out of warranty he just wiped off the computer instead of replacing it as he would have under warranty. I also changed the fluid.

Fine after that.

Gary