I bought the PBR rear brake pad set for the 2000 ML320 and was sorely disappointed. I found one of the parts to be improperly constructed. The right rear outboard pad was constructed from a left rear outboard plate. One edge of the plate is supposed to have a "C" shaped notch on it and the other an inverted "L". This way, the "C" notch hugs the slide plate and the other side can slip down over the opposite slide plate when you mount the caliper. Due to the misconstructed part, I had to grind off one edge of the "C" to make it the inverted "L" shape. I couldn't get the caliper on without the reconfigured part.

The left side pads were correctly made and went in just fine. BUT...the left side is supposed to have a wear sensor built into the pad and this set did not.

The pads appeared to be constructed well and they were packaged better than the Mintex pads I bought for the front.

Since I had everything apart, I went ahead and did the grinding and installation instead of waiting out an exchange. They grab just fine and there is no squeeling. I'll just replace them the next time I do the fronts.

On a side note, my front pads are lasting 24k miles and my rears are lasting 48k miles. I did not measure the rotors, but there was a distinct lip on them. I replaced the front rotors for the first time (48k miles) and left the rears alone. I bought the Brembo front rotors and am extremely pleased with the quality of these things. They come from the factory with a cross-hatch pattern that is supposed to help bed the pads.

Other tips for the interested:
The front calipers are retained with hidden (inside rubber boots) torx head bolts and the rears are retained with 13mm bolts. You have to remove these metal sheilds (13mm bolts) that are just below each caliper to remove the disk. Not sure of their purpose. I had to put liquid wrench in the lug bolt holes in order to get the rust to release its hold on the rotors. I tried beating the first one off with brute force, but it wasn't budging. After 5 minutes with Liquid Wrench, it came of with a couple of light blows. I put anti-seize compound on the inside mating face of the rotors before mounting to the hub. Didn't want to go through all the mess again. I also coated the front face with a slight film of grease to keep the rust down.

Things to buy for next time:
Caliper spreader - don't know why I don't already have one.
Torx bit sockets - shouldn't have beat the 5mm Allen socket in the torx bolts the first time around.

Hope this little report helps someone out.

i used to drive a 325i bmw and had to replace the month-old pbr's because they are the worst pads to have when it rains.

i replaced them with pagid.

they have absolutely no grip in wet weather. they should be removed from the market.

they used to be good when they were called metalmasters.

jen

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Jennifer
90 350sdl

There are different types of PBR brake pads for W123 Mercedes. One is called MetalMaster and it is still available.

As far as your ML goes, I don't blame you for trying ($30 vs. $100+), but we're basically afraid of PBRs for newer vehicles. Hopefully, Mintex will eventually produce rear pads for MLs -- that's what we keep waiting for. In the meantime, stick with the OE pads.

I put PBR deluxe pads on my 400 about a month ago. They are fine, wet or dry, and about 1/10th the dust of the OEM pads. I can't imagine PBR would intentionally manufacturer problematic pads. Way too much liability in the industry for that. Yet screw ups happen. I'm going to install PBR ceramic pads on my ML in the next week or so. I haven't seen any complaints about this state of the technology product. Only 2nd hand anecdotal information

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...Tracy

'00 ML320 "Casper"
'92 400E "Stella"

Had dealer install PBR's on the rear.
No problems at all. Dealer was happy to oblige.

roadsession,

Is there a wear sensor wire coming from your left-side, inboard pad?

Hello Q.
Hmmm.. it doesn't have a wear sensor wire.
But the dealer does an inspection every 10K miles so I'm not so worried. I usually catch a thin brake pad way before the light comes on anyway....

The price difference perhaps comes from the lack of the wear sensor. But if one does frequent maintenance, maybe the ommission of the wear sensor and subsequent 70% discount off list is justified...

I agree with you on the price issue. I guess when I read 'PBR Deluxe' pad set, I assumed that 'deluxe' would be better than standard, not less than standard and with manufacturing defects.

I have no issues with the braking ability of the pads. They seem just fine and no noise.

Phil graciously offered to have me return them for exchange. Since I was able to make them work, it wasn't necessary.

My original intention was to alert people to the fact that you kinda get what you pay for with the PBRs.

You are right on that one!

I installed a set of PBR Metal Master which I bought from Benz Bin. I continue to use the Pagid for the fronts, but their price on the Rears was ridiculous. Moreover, I used the Metal Master on a Porsche, BMW, and Audi and never had a problem. The Pagid price is just indefensible.

I do agree with earlier statements about a lack of attention to detail. Whereas there was no problem with the wrong backing plates, the wear sensor, a metal clip which will scrape the disk when the pad is worn out, was mounted in the wrong place. I removed the MB OEM parts and the sensor should be on the inbound left pad on the "c" shaped side. PBR sensor was mounted on the other side of the pad which meant the caliper with the pads mounted would not slide easily into place. I had to force the clip past the sliding bar. As I now have to replace the parking brake, I am not sure how easily the caliper will come apart because of the misplaced clip. The remedy is probably to break off the clip. It is just a lack of attention to manufacturing detail. Apart from this matter, the brakes appear to work fine.

BTW, does anyone have the torque setting for the 13 mm bolts which hold in the guiding pins? Also does anyone have experience in doing the parking brakes? Thanks in advance.

Hello Tracy,

How did you like your Axiis (PBR) ceramic pads on the ML. I recently installed them all around on my ML430 and I'm less than impressed with them. They dust more than I expected, although far less than the stock pad. However, the brakes squeal like a mutha.. I have found that if I pressure wash the rotors the squeal goes away or if the rotors are cool then no squeal.

What's your experience been?

Rgds, Ed
s

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Ed "Don't Benz's just feel better..."

Current wives...
2000 ML430 Skyview "The Mel"
2000 CLK430 Cab "The Cab"
85 300D Turbo "The Diesel"

Past wives...
92 300E
85 190E

"One should as a rule respect public opinion in so far as is necessary to
avoid starvation and to keep out of prison, but anything that goes beyond
this is voluntary submission to an unnecessary tyranny, and is likely to
interfere with happiness in all kinds of ways."
Bertrand Russell

Hi Ed!

I was not able to find ceramic pads, so went with PBR Deluxe for the ML. Don’t remember the mileage driven, I'd say ~~ 20K since the change, but they’ve been fine. Only a little dust. I thought the squeal was due to lack of anti-squeal paste? I had the shop use MB paste at the time of install. I almost never have time to wash the cars so am delighted for the loss of black dust that coats the front tires, fenders and front doors. Would definitely buy the same again.

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...Tracy

'00 ML320 "Casper"
'92 400E "Stella"

For those who are having difficulty finding ceramic pads for ML's, I used Satisfied ceramic pads on the front recently (99 ml430) and they are great. I do not know if they make a ceramic for the rear, but you really should not need a ceramic for the rear, due to the limited use they get compared to the front. The ceramics make way less dust, are dead quite, and stop better than the OE's (in my opinion). They are availible from the Tire Rack.

[QUOTE=Q]

Things to buy for next time:
Caliper spreader - don't know why I don't already have one.
QUOTE]


Caliper spreader = large c-clamp. CAREFULLY compress before removing from vehicle. Make sure you monitor your fluid level so that you don't bust a master cylinder.

I've been *very* happy with Porterfield R4-S carbon-kevlar pads for street use, but they are NOT cheap (2x-3x the cost of most other pads). They seem to wear very well, much better than I expected, with fairly low dust. While I really like the feel (good initial bite, good modulation), they may need a little more muscle for hard stops when cool... doesn't bother me a bit but if your wife/girlfriend drives the car, they might notice it.

http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/

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