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#1
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Driver Side Window Regulator
The driver's side window on my 98 ML 320 quit working yesterday. It made some noise and the motor was straining to get the window in the up position. Is the window regulator system in the ML the same as an E class? Does it operate by cable and need the "rivet treatment" and new cable to repair or is it a more standard setup? This happened away fron home and the vehicle is no longer under warranty. Is this something I should attempt myself or wait until I get back home in a couple of weeks and take it to a shop? I'm pretty handy with tools but don't have a repair manual for the vehicle.
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99 E300 133K ![]() 98 ML320 99K ![]() 87 Saab 900 Turbo Conv 123K ![]() |
#2
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Sorry, I've never had to replace one yet! Only door locks and actuators, and I was just doing what I had to do to get finished, I should have paid closer attention on those occasions.
I believe they must be different than the E class, or we would have had to replace more of them. I wonder if maybe there is something stuck in the run channel that is caising a drag? I can look at the removal instructions at work on Monday and report back. Or maybe some other contributor has had experience with this and can post an answer. Gilly
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#3
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Window
Are you sure the problem is in the door and not the rocker switch.
The latter have failed on many M's but are easy to replace. The common symptom is an intermittant motion of the window or an out right failure to move. |
#4
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switch assembly?
Check with the switch assembly first.. because my window wouldn't close(yes on a rainy day too! what luck!), and the switch assembly was the culprit! In the ml design you can't just replace one switch you have to replace the whole assembly all 4 switches.. its a common problem..
a.) Replace window switch assembly by removing rubber liner from cubby tray, remove gear shift knob, remove plastic trim around gear shift. b.) Remove coin holder, remove cubby tray, remove wood console by pushing up from cubby, remove cigarette lighter wire, than remove harness from switch. c.) Replace defective switch. let us know how you resolved this problem! plus you can't get a repair manual for the ml320, you have to wait 4 years after they stop production of the ml than they will release the service manual to the public, sucks... anyone work at mercedes sell us the copies =PP |
#5
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Thanks for the prompt replies! Is there any way to check the switch/actuator before removing and replacing it? How would I check it with a volt/ohm meter? I suspect the part itself is pricey and if it doesn't solve the problem I'm sure I couldn't return it.
Any ideas?
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99 E300 133K ![]() 98 ML320 99K ![]() 87 Saab 900 Turbo Conv 123K ![]() |
#6
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The part is about $40 US. Here is a link to a site
with detailed DIY instructions on a fix. You might be able to remove the unit and use an ohm meter to see if the switch is acting up first. If you decide to fix, these are your instructions. If you decide to replace, most of this site cantains the removal/install info except the following: the new unit has one more electrical connection than older units. Not a problem because the wire is there. All connectors are keyed and of different sizes so a mistake is not posssible-O' those thoughful FROG engineers!
http://www.grill.org/rodney/mclass/mlswitch/ |
#7
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Since he posted that the motor was straining to get the window up, I assumed he was correct that it may be the regulator or motor. If the switch goes bad, it just "stops" working, not straining the motor.
If the switch is at fault, you can try pulling up on the window switch in question just a little harder than normal, and also pushing slightly left or right. If it tries to operate the window, you have a bad switch, but you also need to find out why the window motor is straining to get the window up. The excess current draw can ruin the switch assembly. On warranty window switch replacements, MB now makes us write down the current draw for the affected window for up and down operations. Gilly
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#8
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After checking the switch, it appears that's the problem. I can still get the window to move if I jiggle the switch as Gilly recommended. I've ordered a new switch and will install it using the instructions provided in a previous post. Thanks for all the help as I surely would have taken the door apart, thinking that was the problem.
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99 E300 133K ![]() 98 ML320 99K ![]() 87 Saab 900 Turbo Conv 123K ![]() |
#9
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I had problems in the window in my 2001 ML 320. The first problem was that the window was "sticking." Whenever I rolled up the window, streaks of grease would appear on the window. I brought this to the dealer, the problem was that the panels were too tight?? Lame excuse. 3 days later, the window stopped working completely. This was fixed by replacing entire panel of switches.
2 months later, window began to struggle as you have said. The motors were drawing way too many amps thus slowing the motor. All the motors were changed, and now the window is fine..goes up and down nice and fast without that struggle sound you hear in those older honda accords ![]()
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2001 ML 320 (silver) 1999 E320 (smoke silver) 2002 Acura TL Type S 1994 Honda Civic EX (commuter) |
#10
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Just repaired the switch assembly following instructions from the link mentioned above. Took about two hours total. Everything works fine.As mentioned in the link,the contacts were bent.
Takes 3 hours roundtrip to the mercedes dealer.Thought it was worth the try. Easy repair. |
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