I am considering buying two cars, both very close in price, but I wasn't sure which the better buy would be. There is a 1992 300e 4matic with 130,000 miles on it, or I could get a 1993 400e with 160,000 miles on it. Both cars are in excellent condition.

I heard the 4matics cost more to repair, but I also heard the 400e can have issues with the v8 engine.

Could some of you guys out there give me some insight and maybe tell me what to look for in each car before making the purchase?

Thanks in advance to those who respond.

Do you have more opportunity to enjoy AWD or 275hp? M119s have a pretty good reliability history even against such giants as the M103 and M116/7. There are peripheral problems with the wiring harness and sometimes the plastic cam oil squirters break but there's plenty of warning and there's lots written about repairs.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

Where are you located? If you have snow for a few months out of the year the 4matic would probably be the better choice. That said, I would probably opt for the 400e even though I live in MN. Theres no subsitute for the extra HP fun factor

I live in Virginia and go to Virginia Tech. While it snows a few times in the winter, I don't think the AWD is really worth it. The 400e has traction control, does anyone know how that compares to AWD and how useful the traction control really is?

I have been looking into the engine issues, and as you said sixto, I've mainly heard about the wiring harness. Are there preventitive steps I can take to avoid these common problems with the 400e?

Cool. I go to UVA. Go with the 400E definitely and change the rear differential to 2.82. Also put 225/18/35 or some such combination all the way around because the standard tire width is absurd. You will need to pay attention to offset. You will notice a huge handling and ride improvement with the wider tires. There is no question. It is faster, smoother, torque out to wazoo, and the interior is nicer. You will be able to beat or hang with most mustangs/camaros. In cold weather 0-60 is high 5 seconds and 1/4 is even better. I had one and loved it. No problems except I replaced the wiring harness at around 180K. See if they have already replaced it. If not then plan on it sometime in the next 20K-40K. It will probably be around $900 to $1200 parts and labor. The M119 is more reliable than the I6 engines. It doesn't have the head gasket problems. The inline sixes have the same wiring harness issues although maybe not as often because I imagine the heat is not as bad because there is more air in the engine bay but the wiring harness is actually more expensive on the 3.0L/3.2L I6. 4MATIC is awesome but good snow tires on the 400E is enough for around here. Especially if you can just walk to campus or take the bus. I think ASR is worthless.

Unless you can stop time wiring harness problems are inevitable. The problem stems from harness insualtion which degrades and leaves the wires susceptible to the ravages of heat. Some are lucky and never experience problems.

Check the archives for advice on the valvetrain. Some folks replace the squirters for good measure, some wait for a lifter to make noise. Some engines came with metal squirters that don't go bad. Maybe it's newer engines that came with plastic squirters that can crack. It's in the archives.

I remember someone saying to pass on any M119 with sludge in the valve cover. I forget the cause and why the consequences are irreversible.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

My dad has had a couple of cases where the lifters won't stop knocking even after they've been replaced due to dirt and crap. I imagine cleaning out the sludge and running a solution e.g. marvel mystery oil through the engine at relatively high speeds for 60-100 miles would cure that problem.

Talk to one of the techs about the early 4 matics. I wouldn't touch one with a 10ft pole! But the 400E on the other hand you can't really fault.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I just got the 400e last night!!! It's really nice and in good condition. When I was checking the service records the previous owner had taken it in twice for "high engine idle." Has anyone heard of this being a problem? I would think it should be fixed, he put in over 700 each time for that problem. However, if it is a known problem I'd like to catch it before it's a big issue and try to proactively treat the issue to save myself hastle and money.

I also heard that someone got their rear differential done for like 300 dollars. Does anyone know of a guy near DC who might be able to do this? Essentially, I would like to do a few small modifications, the most I can get for the least amount of money.

Congratulations!! You won't regret it.

Yeah that was me. I would plan on a little more than that because I did/watched my own labor. It took about 5 hours but could be done in less time. My dad owns a shop in C'ville. You can get one off a W140 S420 with ASR (make sure that if your car has ASR you get a diff with ASR) for about $300-$500 shipped from www.car-part.com (do a search for carrier and on 400SE/S420 with ASR). I see one on there now for $200 and count on $100 shipping unless it is in Maryland or NC in which case it might be cheaper/more fun to just go pick it up. Not that big of a deal but if you do a lot of long distance traveling it does make the car a little louder. 80mp ~ 100mph with the new diff. It is whisper quiet and just loafing with the 2.24 at highway speeds because it is only turning 2000-2500RPM between 60-80mph. I didn't get the speedo changed because I could just do the conversion in my head. That sort of calculation is a little much for someone from VA Tech so you should probably think about getting your speedo re-calibrated or one of the boxes ($150) as well . I can get you a quote on labor if you happen to be in C'Ville.

That's great man! I sort of need some help. I just took it in for emmissions testing and failed on HC and CO2. Do you know if your dad's shop is emmissions certified? I would bring it there in a heartbeat for that for starters, and maybe see if he could just look it over for any other small problems. I would also be interested in getting a quote on the rear differential, but I need to get it registered and be able to drive it first hand.

Which place in centerville is it? My friend's friend's dad owned a shop out there where I brought my broken 3000GT in 2001. Do you know Bill Hatcher?

Anyone who knows why my emmissions would be high could you please post whatever you know?

god, wouldn't that suck. I just figured only centrevillians called it c'ville. I mentioned DC area, hopefully its centreville.

In stead of bumming me out, any ideas of why my emmissions is f'ed up?

Post up the test readings and I'll give it a guess.

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1989 300 SEL that mostly works, but needs TLC

Yeah Charlottesville, sorry. Everyone here calls it that. Not worth the drive for most stuff but the diff might be worth it. It's about a 2 hour drive from DC. Labor is pretty reasonable. I imagine American Service Center is expensive because it is a dealer but that is who my dad deals with for service and parts. Emissions can be due to running too rich and/or cat clogged up. If the O2 sensor is messed up then it could be running too rich. Sometimes you just have to replace it even if you don't have a check engine light. It might be good to have the plugs, etc. checked as well.

What is the cut off year for emissions? Bill Hatcher sounds familiar.

yeah, the more I thought about it the more I realized it was charlotsville. I actually might consider stopping by there sometime on the way or way back from school, how long would it take to get a quote?

How easy is the O2 sensor to replace? How would I know if it's running too rich or how to inspect the Catalytic Converter?

Also, if anyone has any recomendations for replacement speakers please let me know, mine are old and shot.