Ok.

I have no alternative other than to have a P-Trap snaked. The trap is in a very crappy spot and behind tile.

My experience is that most assho!e plumbers shoot the snake through the trap and end up turning an $80 call into an $800 call.

Does anyone know of anything/anyone to look for (special kind of machine, etc.) that the plumber should have so that if the snake can't push past the clog it won't push past the trap!

Thanks,

Pete

Snaking a trap is not a big deal. A plumber will probably have a powered tool and get the job done in minutes.

But, you can get a similar, manually operated tool at HD for about $30. and do the job yourself.

If you can get to the trap with no more than one turn before you get there.......you're all set. A second turn will complicate matters significantly but should not be impossible.

I've broken into the line and put a clean out (basically a Y connection with a cap on one leg) downstream just so I could snake back up the line.

you can get a hand cranked snake for less the $5 at menards or a place like that. save yourself the $$ and DYI. it's not that involved or hard to do.

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72 W114/M130

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The real cheap one's won't even make one turn and they twist..........

..........good for a trap that is right beneath the fixture.......but, going a distance requires a better tool.

you may be right but i just work it hard and it does go..

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72 W114/M130

RedMeat cartoon

"Rent-All" type of places rent power snakes ...plug it in and watch it go.

Where is this clog? Kitchen sink?

Sometimes (if you can get on top of your roof) you can shove a garden hose down the vent and after blasting some water down it, unclog the clog.

Good luck!

-Larry

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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

Get industrial drain clear...

I used it in our house in FortLauderdale all over. The pool deck drains were slow as hell.

It is concentrated sulfric acid... makes a cool sizzle when you poor it in.

I used it in amm the drains, they are like new! Just kinda make sure to flush teh drain well, that acid will keep workign on your pipes if you don't... Fuk a plumber

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The Wolf: That's thirty minutes away. I'll be there in ten.

I agree with Brian's advice not to buy a cheap handsnake. Buy the $25 brand name version. They are MUCH better. Handsnakes are about 25' long and should get you thru the inch and half or 2' pipe for the fixture to the 3 or 4 inch main line. Pushing the plug past the trap is no problem if you push it out into the main line. I had to do such a thing on a shower drain a couple of weeks ago. Often times you will have to snake it more than once. If the line is filled with sludge, the snake will go through but the sludge will fall back into place once the snake is removed. Putting a slight bend in the end of the snake will put a wider hole through the sludge as the snake goes in and out. Run hot water down the pipe after the snake is removed for at least ten minutes.

Best long term solution is to modify the system somehow to make the trap accessible so it can be pulled, cleaned and the snake run in downstream of the trap.

By the way, my observations seem to prove there is a correlation between the amount of crack you expose and the effectiveness of the plumbing job.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

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72 W114/M130

RedMeat cartoon

Thanks guys.

I can clear most any sewer.

My problem is with the P-Trap. In my experiences, when I try to snake at the drain and through the P-Trap, I end up shooting the snake through the wall of the P-Trap... THAT is what I need avoid...

Thanks again,

Pete

If you've got the prepackaged undersink P traps from HD or similar, you don't snake it.......you simply drop it........and usually replace it.

If the trap is not undersink, I would hope that they used schedule 40 PVC to make the trap. You won't blow the snake through that wall.

If neither of the above are true.......you have my condolonces.......your plumbing was done by a moron.

Yes. The moron part is most likely true. But being buried behind a tile ceiling, I won't know. Seeing how I didn't do the job I can only assume a moron did it, since, honestly, most people IMHO, do crap work. BUT your asessment is 100% correct!

Pete

There is very little chance that you can successfully snake that trap without blowing a hole through the side, if it's the cheapie. In fact, the joints will probably start to leak just from all the pushing on the plastic.

I don't envy you with that one............the light duty snake is probably the best.

Originally posted by Kerry Edwards:
Having met Kerry, I'm here to tell y'all this is NOT the mental image you want to have rolling around in your head. I gotta find a Victoria's Secret catalog quick, as a salve for the incredible discomfort I'm now feeling!!!

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"Diplomacy is the art of saying 'nice doggie' until you can find a rock."

that's why i suggested a cheapy hand operated snake. more pwer leads to busted traps so can a HD one. just my 2 pennies.

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72 W114/M130

RedMeat cartoon