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#1
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Always use real caulk on your bathtub
Don't ever use that fake plastic stick on moulding stuff. It doesn't stick after awhile, and it makes the water run out of the bathtub, at least mine.
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You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows - Robert A. Zimmerman |
#2
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Kuan, Just as long as you can take the fake material off and re-apply the "real stuff" no harm done.
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#3
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Oh man, caulking tubs can be a pain. The silicon stuff works pretty well but Jeez what a mess. You also need to clean all surfaces real well with acetone prior to application.
I saw an add on cable TV for a little rubber squeegee for use with silicon (silicone?) and I almost called in to order one.
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Te futueo et caballum tuum 1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#4
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I've always heard: A good caulk is hard to find
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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein 09 Jetta TDI 1985 300D |
#5
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__________________
You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows - Robert A. Zimmerman |
#6
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Besides needing a good caulk, you also need to be sure that the crevice you are going to fill with your caulk is clean...nothing worse than a dirty crevice.
When filling a crevice, it is ok to go slow....you don't want to miss not getting the crevice full of caulk, or no one will be happy. Always grasp your caulk firmly as you start to apply your caulk...you don't want to end up with caulk everywhere but where you intended to put it! Slow and deliberate application of caulk, always gets the job done right, and the satisfaction you get is near incredible, and could darn well leave you tired afterwards (so, remember to pace yourself!). I've yet to hear of anyone being truly happy with a "stick-on caulk".
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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein 09 Jetta TDI 1985 300D |
#7
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After having caulked the same bathtub three times over a three year period, I have two words for you:
100% silicone. It is the only thing that sticks. I tried Dap, and it peeled away in no time. I then went to the Dap with Silicone, and it failed in about a year. I then went with the GE 100% silicone, and it worked. Yes, it's messy, and it can't be cleaned up with water, but it's the only caulking I recommend.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#8
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![]() Quote:
![]() That answer sounded like a page out a sex-manual! ![]() I agree w/Suginami...GE 100% Silicone works the best. And, as Larry pointed out, take your time w/the stuff. I've found that if you clean the surfaces w/a little water and let it air-dry, if you lay down a small, narrow bead on the surface and work it in w/a small stick (popcicle-stick, toungue-degress style or toothpick...) and then add the larger bead as the follow-up, you're likely to get a much better, and reliable, seal. When I've used the GE Silicone (GES), the important aspect of its success was making sure the parts/pieces to be bonded were clean and grease/oil free. Otherwise...failure of sealant. (Useful Hint: DO NOT USE RUBBING ALCOHOL (RA) FOR PRE-ASSEMBLY PREP & CLEAN. RA contains OIL and that defeats the cleaning process. Use DENATURED ALCOHOL. A little more expensive, but does the job of removing the oils. (Dryes the h*** out of your hands, too!) One trick I've been able to use on the GES - after it has had a little time to cure, if you take a SHARP razor knife or blade, you can "score" the edge of the silicone and trim off any "over-spread" real nice. It take a little patience but if you want it to look good, you know you'll do well. And besides, if you screw it up, it's not really hard to go back and fix your mistake... ![]()
__________________
. ![]() . M. G. Burg'10 - Dakota SXT - Daily Ride / ≈ 172.5K .'76 - 450SLC - 107.024.12 / < .89.20 K ..'77 - 280E - 123.033.12 / > 128.20 K ...'67 - El Camino - 283ci / > 207.00 K ....'75 - Yamaha - 650XS / < 21.00 K .....'87 - G20 Sportvan / > 206.00 K ......'85 - 4WINNS 160 I.O. / 140hp .......'74 - Honda CT70 / Real 125 . “I didn’t really say everything I said.” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ~ Yogi Berra ~ |
#9
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Use 3M 5200.....have fun!
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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#10
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or grab a tube of PL construction adheisive.... be sure to wear gloves. Least you'll know the joint is air/water tight.....
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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build) |
#11
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"Slow and deliberate application of caulk..." ![]() I heard a radio ad years ago, some lady went into a hardware store saying she needed something to seal a leak around her bathtub and the salesman launched into a glowing description of "Red Devil Cock," or at least that's what it sounded like and the lady's going, "uh, uh, pardon me??" I couldn't believe they actually got it on the radio. I would rather use denatured alcohol than acetone cuz I think acetone is much worse on your bod but I'm not positive. So the DN alc. works OK?
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Te futueo et caballum tuum 1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#12
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Te futueo et caballum tuum 1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#13
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I'm sick of .sig files |
#14
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I like cursing out the people who use it to bed in through hulls and deck fittings that I have to remove!
![]() There is almost no use for 5200 out side of hull to deck joints and other structural joints. Ie stern drive plates, keel joints ect.
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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 Last edited by Hatterasguy; 08-02-2006 at 09:50 PM. |
#15
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