Allright, my olds is due for brake pads (wear indicators just started chirping)... The weather's looking to be ****ty for a month, then snow like hell... and I wont beable to do a "proper" job untill the beginning of the summer...

My plan was to replace all 4 rotors, and get all new pads (ceramics , no dust FTW)... My current rotors are warped, so bad that the car kinda feels like the ABS is malfuntioning (but it's not). AND it squeeks embarrisingly. The pads have about 3/8" left, but the warped rotors are hitting the indicators

New rotors will be around $50 (uncles friend =GM parts dude), pads will be around $150 total (gm parts guy=gm ONLY parts, no aftermarket)... I wasnt planning on spending $200, and having my car apart for 2 days (done brakes like... once... kinda)


What I'm thinking of doing is buying some cheapy frount pads ( $15), and running them for the winter. I "might" go 6000 miles... OR, bending the indicators, so they dont touch, and then running them for 6k miles...

So, any body see a problem with that? I know the rotors are allready shot, what's the harm in putting some cheap pads on them for the winter... Also, do you think id beable to get 6k miles out of 3/8" of pads?

tks alot
~Nate

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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

I never skimp on brakes, and it sounds like your due for a complete brake job. I'd bit the bullet and just get it over with.

Cars never demand attention at a good time!

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Cheap pads for 6k miles? x2 on the never a good time...

I'm not one to skimp on brakes either, it doesent need a compleate job, it only "really" needs frount rotors and pads... the rears are extra, but they're getting done also, because I said they're getting done


tks
~Nate

__________________
95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

When those 6k miles are up it will be an even worse time.

Since the weather is poor and it only really needs to the front how about:
Buying the discs and pads for the front only. Then finding a decent place and time over say the next month to do the job. If the rears are fine leave them until you have the time and money.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

midas? or do they just do mufflers?

I'm doing the work myself, no way in hell am I letting a chain store mechanic touch it, muchless a discount auto service place, like midus/walmart


I will be doing them.
~Nate

__________________
95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

I wouldnt buy GM rotors unless the price is right I dont think it's worth it. Look around for some "organic" brake pads. Not to many places sell them anymore but they dont have any metal in them and dont warp the rotors as fast or squeal as much. They are also cheaper.

Usually GM rotors have enough meat on them to be able to turn them once or twice. It ought to be cheaper to have them turned, than to replace with new. When I had my '76 Malibu, I always bought what was on sale - that hunk of iron/rust didn't seem to notice or care who made the replacement parts, nor how cheap they were.

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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

IMHO, I would be think twice about organics on a heavy GM fwd vehicle. They tranfer heat energy directly to the caliper piston and can boil the brake fluid without warning. This comes straight from the mouth of the Wagner sales rep that stopped by the little mom and pop parts store I used to run. He didn't want me to be liable in case someone lost their brakes, and I stopped selling organic pads after that. I also had one of my accounts tell me that they had a customer lose their brakes after replacing the pads with organics, the brake fluid boiled.

If it was my car I would look into new rotors and pads for the front, which does most of the braking anyways. It would take a while for new pads to seat on those old rotors, leading to longer stopping distances until they are broken in. Try these people for parts, they have awesome prices, and it's genuine GM parts: http://www.gmotors.com/

The brake rotors are a easy touch once the caliper is slid out of the way, they only add a beer or two to the whole job.

Nate,

If that half-assed brake job causes you to adopt some kid on a Schwinn as your next hood ornament, you'll never forgive yourself. Always go first class with brakes and tires, you'll never regret it.

Ok, I'll talk to my uncles friend about getting the frount rotors, and pads... Hold the rears for a nicer day...

I guess I'll be doing it this weekend. I have a date on sunday, so I'm going to have to get the parts ordered, paid for, installed, and broken in before then.... I love deadlines...

IF not, I "might" beable to steal moms car, but that still means I wouldnt have a car on monday...... dammit.



Yeah, time for new rotors and pads... The price IS right on them, I think he said around $50 for 4... Parts store sells them for $48 each... Pads, we'll see, but for the truck, they werent too much money. I'll be taking care of it, and living with a really annoying/embarrising squeeking for a week.


Such is the case with cars... Allways need them when they're broke
~Nate

__________________
95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)