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  #1  
Old 01-09-2007, 08:37 AM
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Bad Plumber or S.O.P. ?

I went through a national home improvement chain to have a new water heater installed. The old water heater worked but was past it's life expectancy, so I decided to replace it before it failed.

The contractor came out yesterday and started draining the old water heater. He realized he had to do extra work to bring it up to code, namely installing a power vent heater. I ok'ed the extra work and that's when he told me I would not have hot water until they finished.

He said he "spun out the regulator" and can't replace it. What he meant was he cut the thermocouple wire and spun out the regulator and the heater won't work without a thermocouple.

Why would you need to remove the regulator to drain the tank? I understand why he would need to cut the thermocouple wire to remove the regulator, by why does he need to remove the regulator?
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  #2  
Old 01-09-2007, 09:20 AM
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I don't see why any of the controls of the existing hot water heater needed to be touched at all. I've replaced a number of hot water heaters and never destroyed the controls.
Why a power vent? Isn't there an existing non-powered vent?
Are you saying the contractor realized it was a multi day job, after arriving on site, then damaged the hot water heater and told you he couldn't finish it that day? He couldn't figure out it was a multi-day job before damaging the existing heater?
I don't think this plumber would be returning to my house. I think he is a scam artist. I don't see why you would need a power vent. He's damaged the heater so you don't have time to investigate the necessity of the additional work.

What's s.o.p.?--ok, now I get it. Standard Operating Procedure. No that is not standard operating procedure unless a scam artist is involved.
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Last edited by kerry; 01-09-2007 at 09:30 AM.
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  #3  
Old 01-09-2007, 09:28 AM
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Standard Operating Procedure.

A power vent has to be installed because the existing exhaust duct work goes behind drywall, which is apparently a big no-no.

I am trying to determine if he destroyed the regulator on purpose or if that is part of the job.
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  #4  
Old 01-09-2007, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorsen View Post
Standard Operating Procedure.

A power vent has to be installed because the existing exhaust duct work goes behind drywall, which is apparently a big no-no.

I am trying to determine if he destroyed the regulator on purpose or if that is part of the job.
Not a part of the job.
Under what circumstances does the vent go behind drywall? Most chimneys are behind drywall at some point.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #5  
Old 01-09-2007, 09:33 AM
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In thirtysomething years, I have replaced dozens of water heaters and often there's so much sand in the bottom of the tank that the drain is completely plugged and the water only trickles out. In those situations, you have to make more holes to get all the water out. The thermostat on a gas heater is one of the openings that you can get to fairly easily to effect the draining.

It sounds like he was in a rush so, cutting the thermocouple to free it from the thermostat (so the thermo can be unscrewed out of the tank) would be easier than unscrewing it. Unfortunately, it's irreversible if you run into other problems.
Your plumber was headed the right way to complete that job but, shouldn't have subjected you to a loss of hot water because of his lack of planning/foresight.

(edit) That photo looks like he cut the gas line to the pilot, not the thermocouple. Also, the handle is missing from the drain so, there's a pretty good chance that drain is somehow screwed-up too.

Still, that's no excuse leaving you with a cold shower. These days, it seems that level of service (piss-poor) is becoming more and more common in the trades. One thing: in all the WH swaps I did, I NEVER left a customer w/o hot water and believe me, I had some pretty nasty swaps.
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Last edited by R Leo; 01-09-2007 at 09:50 AM.
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  #6  
Old 01-09-2007, 09:38 AM
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if the vent was legal when it was installed it should be legal now.

"existing non conforming use."

imho

tom w
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  #7  
Old 01-09-2007, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
if the vent was legal when it was installed it should be legal now.

"existing non conforming use."

imho

tom w
Thanks Tom. I was under that impression as well, but this guy acted like my house was going to burn down. Maybe the Chicago codes are stricter, I don't know.
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  #8  
Old 01-09-2007, 09:58 AM
MedMech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
if the vent was legal when it was installed it should be legal now.

"existing non conforming use."

imho

tom w
When it comes to chimneys that is the farthest thing from the truth. If any type of deterioration is found by anyone in the building trades or power company the system is "red tagged". No exceptions; that is the rule in Michigan.
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  #9  
Old 01-09-2007, 10:15 AM
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deterioration is not a code compliance issue.

i believe what this guy was talking about was an upgrade to conform to today's codes (which i think was a bogus claim).

of course if it is deteriorated, it must be repaired. that just makes good sense.

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #10  
Old 01-09-2007, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Leo View Post

(edit) That photo looks like he cut the gas line to the pilot, not the thermocouple. Also, the handle is missing from the drain so, there's a pretty good chance that drain is somehow screwed-up too.
I opened the drain last month to check for sediment and the water came out fast and hard. The drain works fine.
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  #11  
Old 01-09-2007, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorsen View Post
I opened the drain last month to check for sediment and the water came out fast and hard. The drain works fine.
Bad plumber, no donut.

Down here, any WH older than 4-5 years will easily have 6" of concrete-like sediment inside.
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  #12  
Old 01-09-2007, 09:52 AM
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Another picture

He cut the pilot light gas tube and the thermocouple wire, even though both of those have threaded connections to the regulator.

Thanks to everyone for their opinions.
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  #13  
Old 01-09-2007, 04:32 PM
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The manager and a different plumber came out this afternoon. The second plumber confirmed that cutting the connections to the regulator was the easy/lazy way out. The manager apologized profusely for the first plumber - the duct work is B-vent (meets code) and there is heat shielding on both sides of the wall. In a nutshell, about 80% of what the the first plumber said was incorrect.

Thanks to everyone for their help.
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  #14  
Old 01-09-2007, 04:47 PM
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Glad to hear it turned out ok. I'm surprised the big box store came through.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #15  
Old 01-09-2007, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry edwards View Post
...I'm surprised the big box store came through.
The manager must have believed in this business saying:

"If a customer is happy, they will tell a friend. If they are unhappy, they will tell ten friends!"

You have told at least ten people here that you were unhappy, but now it's fixed and better. Score one for the 'big box.'
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