Electrically Actuated Full Port Brass Ball Valve 3/4" - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

GottaDiesel · #1 06-05-2007, 03:09 PM

I'm trying to find an:

ELECTRICALLY Actuated Ball Valve made of either brass or stainless that is full port and 3/4".

I found one, it is $375... I have to figure that there has to be a better price?

This one is triggered by a SPDT switch... and seems very fancy for what I need.

I need to shut water off from a remote location. The main is in a crawl, and I want to shut the water off in the house.

Any ideas, hints, tips, or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

300EVIL · #2 06-05-2007, 03:25 PM

It doesn't say what size the fittings are but this may work.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Water-Heater-Waterheater-Floodstop-Leak-Safety-Shutoff_W0QQitemZ280118584812QQihZ018QQcategoryZ115968QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

Chas H · #3 06-05-2007, 04:00 PM

How far/close is the valve to the operators contemplated position? Can a push-pull cable work?

John Doe · #4 06-05-2007, 04:09 PM

Maybe a dumb question, but why can't you just spend ten bucks and get a T wrench to shut it off at the meter if you need it off?

GottaDiesel · #5 06-05-2007, 04:16 PM

The distance is about 25 feet. I don't want anything with a sensor. Just a simple switch. On/Off for the main. This particular application requires that the water be turned off for the entire location... I have the iron T -- that is at the street... I'm looking for something is easier since it will be done often and in all weather (when the water service box may be under ice/snow)... I think I found what I'm looking for on eBay:

260122835914

Just want to look into the quality of the actuator before I do it... I'll have to get it in a 3/4"...

(JD -- the T is how we do it now... it's a BIG pain in the ass -- this is more to prevent a catastrophic flood in the event of pipe failure in the structure due to fitting failure, etc. -- not freezing. The heat/hot water is a sealed system so it will not require a feed from the main to operate...)

Thanks again... Pete

John Doe · #6 06-05-2007, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GottaDiesel

(JD -- the T is how we do it now... it's a BIG pain in the ass -- this is more to prevent a catastrophic flood in the event of pipe failure in the structure due to fitting failure, etc. -- not freezing. The heat/hot water is a sealed system so it will not require a feed from the main to operate...)

Thanks again... Pete

If that is why you are doing it, you should tell your insurance company and get a break on the premium, because that is why you have insurance.

300EVIL · #7 06-05-2007, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GottaDiesel

The distance is about 25 feet. I don't want anything with a sensor. Just a simple switch. On/Off for the main.

Yeah, you can just cut the wire going to the actuator and wire in a simple switch and power supply. Piece of cake. I looked at that other unit on ebay and figured it was no good since it's half inch.

GottaDiesel · #8 06-05-2007, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 300EVIL

Yeah, you can just cut all the unneeded parts off the actuator and wire in a simple switch.

Ya know... you may have just saved me even MORE money...

So I'm clear, you're saying to go with the $89 eBay water-heater "leak" shut-off and wire it with a switch and by-pass all that other "sensor" crap?

If so I have two questions:

1) How do you go about turning it back on? Is the "on" also powered?

2) How do you think it will do duty-cycle wise? Can it be used say, daily?

300EVIL · #9 06-05-2007, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GottaDiesel

1) How do you go about turning it back on? Is the "on" also powered?

2) How do you think it will do duty-cycle wise? Can it be used say, daily?

Now those are two very good questions.... As for wiring, I'd have to see how it's configured. Most likely a three wire or reverse polarity deal. Duty cycle would be a big concern, If you plan on turning this thing off and on daily you will probably need a more robust unit. I'd say your in the $200-$300 range unless you can find a used one.

300EVIL · #10 06-05-2007, 05:24 PM

If your going for daily use and it's closed more often than it's open, I'd go with a solenoid valve. Way more reliable and cheaper.

Medmech · #11 06-05-2007, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 300EVIL

If your going for daily use and it's closed more often than it's open, I'd go with a solenoid valve. Way more reliable and cheaper.

Yea, as long as no voltage = down or vice versa if you are more worried about no water during power outage.

300EVIL · #12 06-05-2007, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Howitzer

Yea, as long as no voltage = down or vice versa if you are more worried about no water during power outage.

Good point, However most valve solenoids are built on=open and there is a manual override, if you can get to it.....

GottaDiesel · #13 06-05-2007, 05:38 PM

Yeah -- I had looked into a solenoid, but, correct me if I'm wrong, the way they generally work is that they are normally closed. Then when you run current through them, they open. This means that the solenoid would be "hot" (or on) for the period of time that water is being used... sometimes a week, sometimes a couple days...

Either way, and again correct if I'm wrong, a solenoid is required to be "hot" to hold the opposite position it is stated to be "normally" (i.e. normally closed no juice when closed, and hot when open and visa-versa)

Do I have that right?

300EVIL · #14 06-05-2007, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GottaDiesel

Yeah -- I had looked into a solenoid, but, correct me if I'm wrong, the way they generally work is that they are normally closed. Then when you run current through them, they open. This means that the solenoid would be "hot" (or on) for the period of time that water is being used... sometimes a week, sometimes a couple days...

Either way, and again correct if I'm wrong, a solenoid is required to be "hot" to hold the opposite position it is stated to be "normally" (i.e. normally closed no juice when closed, and hot when open and visa-versa)

Do I have that right?

You got it, It's a little bit of a trade off. Most industrial solenoids are designed to be left on for long periods. Months, years ect. However, there is a current drain either way, even if it is minimal. You may want to do some calculations on a solenoid valve's specs and see if the cost in electricity per year would be worth the savings in purchasing a rotary ball valve. I would guesstimate running a solenoid valve open for 365 days would cost between $5 and $20 in electricity per year.

GottaDiesel · #15 06-05-2007, 05:58 PM

I don't care about the money to run the valve. I want what is safest... my concern is I don't like having the valve in the crawl space where I can't see it (Can a solenoid over-heat and cause a fire or something? (I'm just asking))... In the end I want what ever is safest and will last the longest in this type of an inclement application...