Look what I just got from the UPS truck - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Chad300tdt · #46 10-16-2008, 09:25 PM

Thanks "owner of Bodhi".

Your console is really beautiful. When I look at it I see hours of meticulous labor.

KarTek · #47 10-16-2008, 09:29 PM

Your console is amazing! Better than new...

bill murrow · #48 10-16-2008, 09:29 PM

Pre cat will hold up better than anything on the market IMHO. It's tough as nails and lasts for years. I believe thats what they used originally on the wood trims in 123's and is most certainly used on the later models. Early days of pre cat for sure but from what I recall was available at the time. It's not in any way forgiving so practice before you do the actual piece. BodhiBenz1987 did a fabulous job. Looks stock and will hold up well.

I know what you guys are saying about lumber these days. I get around that by buying old lumber at farm auctions. Lots of farmers had lumber laying around for various reasons. I use it in the restoration of antique furniture, a business I started in 1975. In order to match old wood you have to have old wood.

I doubt you would find anything close to zebrano at any farm auction however a piece of walnut or brown mahogany could certainly be had then faux finished to match the Zebrano grain. A comb made from a piece of thin piece cardboard would work great to do the graining.

I'm just throwing this idea out there in case someone wants to make one from solid wood but what these guys are doing with the MDF and veneer is actually stronger than solid wood which trends to crack with the grain.

There was a guy on here a couple years ago making cup holders out of solid wood that were not zebrano but when stained certainly looked like zebrano. Looked for the thread but couldn't find it.

SwampYankee · #49 10-17-2008, 08:18 AM

Chad, looks great! Put my name on one.

Chad300tdt · #50 10-17-2008, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SwampYankee

Chad, looks great! Put my name on one.

You were already on the list good sir.

But I'll see what I can do about putting your name on it.

SwampYankee · #51 10-17-2008, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

You were already on the list good sir.

But I'll see what I can do about putting your name on it.

I'd like "Swamp" in gold leaf script across it.

No, not really.

You are a gentleman and a scholar. There are very few of us left.

xnetcrash · #52 10-20-2008, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987

I used precat (ML Campbell Magnalac) on my entire wooden console and it's held up great through one hot summer. I guess winter will be a big test. It was not that hard to apply and easy to work with in terms of color sanding.

Chad ... cupholder looks great. I'm starting a cupholder project of my own currently. I think mine will be a one-cupper with zebra veneer on the top and MB Tex (at $36 a yard!

) around the sides. Shape depends on what me and my $15 power dremel can manage. I bought my zebra for the boost guage panel in the pic above from eBay, but this time around was actually was able to order a nice little pack from a local Woodcraft for $10.

I want to refinish my center console in my 1992 300D, who had the car before me left all the poly to crack and now I have big parts that have exposed veneer. Any tips on how to remove the old poly, what chemicals to use and some directions are highly appreciated.

Thank you

bill murrow · #53 10-20-2008, 08:33 PM

Everybodys opinion is gonna differ...we all have different ways of doing things. The following procedure has worked for me for many many years....

After removing the wood from your car....

1] Strip with any available stripper. Personally I like either Kwik Liquid No Wash or Dads semi paste. Let the stripper do the work. Best to do it with temps around 75 degrees. You'll see the old finish start to bubble after a couple minutes. If it doesn't and the stripper appears to be drying up, apply more. Try not to let it sit too long due to the possibility of lifting the veneer. I use a rag to wipe the old finish off. Then Using a rag soaked with lacquer thinner, wipe off the work to remove all the old finish.

2] Using water base analyn dye [or stain as some stores call it...just make sure water base!], brush or wipe on with a rag. Brush = heavier color while rag = lighter color. This is the tricky part! You want to match your exsisting color so experiment in a small area to get color match. FYI....I prefer water base for this application due to the fact that oil base stains will fade while water base will not.

3] First make sure you have a nice sunny, low humidity day around 65 or 70 degrees.Using pre cat lacquer, SPRAY on a light tack coat, allow to dry. The tack coat is one quick pfffft across the surface.Apply additional coats a little heavier than the initial tack coat. The flow coats are sprayed both across and back in the same area. Its tricky to get the flow coats to work right. Too heavy, you get bubbles when it dries and too light it sets up before it has a chance to flow/level out. Inbetween each flow coat smooth out with 0000 steel wool, working with the grain and blowing off before recoating. Keep going with the flow coats until you reach the desired look. The last flow coat you can rub with a brown paper bag to smooth it out if you do get some imperfections. Rub with the grain of course.

In a nut shell, thats about it. Not rocket science but does take some practice. Biggest mistake I see most novices make is in the stripping process believe it or not. Most over strip the surface. All you need to do is remove the top coat. You don't want to make it look like new raw, uncolored wood. By leaving the original color [thats under the top clear coat] intact it makes for an easier job when color matching.

xnetcrash · #54 10-20-2008, 10:25 PM

Thank you Bill.

bill murrow · #55 10-21-2008, 07:50 AM

You're welcome.

One thing I forgot....get some FEE at any automotive store that sells paint. FEE = fish eye eliminator. Couple pumps per quart and you won't get the fish eye problem.

BodhiBenz1987 · #56 10-21-2008, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xnetcrash

I want to refinish my center console in my 1992 300D, who had the car before me left all the poly to crack and now I have big parts that have exposed veneer. Any tips on how to remove the old poly, what chemicals to use and some directions are highly appreciated.

Thank you

You'd definitely be better to go with Bill's advice on this, but if you need other ideas, what I did is (sort of) documented here: http://www.geocities.com/cat8741/process.html

I had a heck of a time getting that old poly off and ended up taking some real chances with brutal methods. I have no background or experience with wood finishing so mine was a lot of not-so-professional improvising. Plus of course advice from folks here.

Feel free to PM me with any questions.

Dee8go · #57 10-22-2008, 08:38 AM

I like what you did in the ashtray spot. Ashtrays seem so anachronistic these days, but cigar(ette) lighters are in big demand as power sources. I think I'll do that with mine.

BodhiBenz1987 · #58 10-22-2008, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee8go

I like what you did in the ashtray spot. Ashtrays seem so anachronistic these days, but cigar(ette) lighters are in big demand as power sources. I think I'll do that with mine.

Yeah, I hated having to have the ashtray open whenever I needed something plugged into the 12v. The ashtray didn't really serve a purpose for me. If someone needs a smoke while riding in my car, they can ash out the window. And they better be reaaaaaal careful around the MB Tex.

Dee8go · #59 10-22-2008, 12:46 PM

If somebody needs to smoke while they're riding in MY car, theyd better get out and walk! I don't want anybody stinking it up with cigarettes.

The other benefit to haveing just the lighter there without the ashtray is that some of my lighter adapters will not fit correctly even when the tray is pulled out. Your solution is great.

panZZer · #60 08-07-2010, 02:46 PM

Chad, Still got wood? We need boost guage/egt panels to replace the ashtray on 123's