Air tool question - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

OMEGAMAN · #31 09-26-2008, 08:46 PM

'll chime in with my 18 years of mechanicing (is that a word) I use grease or oil because I hate neversieze. That stuff seems to get everywhere. After i have used that stuff it winds up on my elbows my face everywhere. If we lived in the rust belt you might need neversieze but here in Colorado grease is more than enough protection.

Angel · #32 09-26-2008, 10:11 PM

I would put the anti seize on the threads (studs?) and keep it off of the lug nut seating surface (the curved or slanted part where the nut actually contacts the wheel. Keep the threads from sticking but let the nut "stick" to the wheel as it already has.

-John

Mike D · #33 09-26-2008, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OMEGAMAN

'll chime in with my 18 years of mechanicing (is that a word) I use grease or oil because I hate neversieze. That stuff seems to get everywhere. After i have used that stuff it winds up on my elbows my face everywhere. If we lived in the rust belt you might need neversieze but here in Colorado grease is more than enough protection.

We use Never-seize down here in the land of perpetual sunshine 'cause the heat turns the grease into oil which then collects the sand. Works pretty good as a sun block also. How can a 1'16" blob of Never-seize expand to cover your entire sleeve and the armrest of your car? Just an amazing, unbelievable contrast to one of the laws of physics.

"Mechanicing?? Hmm, sounds like a spreadable topping or what happens when you have to do automotive work at 20 below. "Jim, don't let Billy go out there to change your fan belt. That mechanic'll ice up without no protection"

kerry · #34 11-04-2008, 12:29 PM

Further question:
While I was able to loosen the left side lugs with the 1" impact and my small pancake compressor, I was unsuccessful on the right side. So now I'm thinking of getting another compressor with more 'oomph' rather than paying a shop to do it.
How much difference would using either 150psi or 200psi make in the amount of torque output in the 1" impact? I'm looking at a couple of used compressors on Craigslist with those outputs. Both compressors have tanks int he 15 gallon range so there will be more air to power the wrench.

Angel · #35 11-04-2008, 03:50 PM

Most air tools are only rated for 90 or 110psi. TO go above that is risking the life/safety of the tool (an impact wrench is not something I'd want flying apart on me)

I have seen "stuck" nuts, that required a full 15 seconds of impacting at full power to come loose. Count out 15 secs, thats a long time to hold an impact on a nut.... I'd venture that few 120vac air compressors would be able to make that much air (you'd need a 220v model...)

I have a good (Milwaukee?) 120v electric impact - it has yet to let me down - they cost more than air impacts but less than new air compressors. Its an option.

-John

kerry · #36 11-04-2008, 03:55 PM

The only electric 1" impact I could find on a quick google, was a Makita with 738 ft lbs of torque for $732. That won't cut it. My 1" HF air impact has 1400 ft lbs of torque at 100psi but I'm only getting a couple of seconds of output with my current compressor.

Matt L · #37 11-04-2008, 05:59 PM

It would not surprise me at all if the 738 ft-lb Makita loosens a nut that your "1400 ft-lb" H-F wrench can't budge.

tyl604 · #38 11-04-2008, 06:30 PM

Guys - my indy just removed my wheels and told me they were on way too tight. I had used a breaker bar. He said to torque them to 80 foot lbs each; then re-torque a week or so later. 81 300SD. I realize you are talking about a truck but it sounds like the lug bolts have been way tightened over spec.

Brian Carlton · #39 11-04-2008, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tyl604

Guys - my indy just removed my wheels and told me they were on way too tight. I had used a breaker bar. He said to torque them to 80 foot lbs each; then re-torque a week or so later. 81 300SD. I realize you are talking about a truck but it sounds like the lug bolts have been way tightened over spec.

Any man of reasonable strength will overtighten the M/B lugs with an 18" breaker bar. It's inevitable. After they twist a few rotors, they realize that a $20. torque wrench might be a good investment after all...........

Hogweed · #40 11-04-2008, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

Anti-seize on lug bolts????

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tires-and-wheels/44792-anti-seize-lug-nut-studs-why/

What are people's opinions on this?

a volvo shop i used to frequent in albuq used it all the time, and it seems like a fine product.

I had a flat at work last year in the spare car (no jack, no lug wrench; what can i say?) and a friend stopped by with his work truck (mobile truck tire guy) and absolutely hammered the lugs back on w/ a 3/4" gun. i needed heat to ge them off. i wish he had used something!

Angel · #41 11-05-2008, 08:01 AM

those guys one the toyota forum (linked above) are cool - one of them actually did his own stress/strain test on a bolt (measured length, same torque, lubed and unlubed...)

The evidence seems to point that using antiseize/lubricant DOES indeed put more "holding force" on the bolt. But no one could cite an experience where they lubed their threads and it caused the bolt to fail.

I'd keep using anti-seize as I posted above.

And I find it interesting that on the toyota forum, their dealer name is right next to their user name.....why are they so proud of their dealers ? =)

-John

kerry · #42 06-08-2009, 12:44 PM

As a follow up, I ended up taking the truck to a truck tire shop. They first tried with their 1" impact. 30 seconds or so on each lug made no difference. They then got a sledge hammer and a second guy hit the impact socket with the sledge while the other operated the impact. No go. Finally, they went and got 'Big Bertha', must be their most powerful 1" impact (Central Pneumatic no less), waited until their compressor was at full capacity and let them have it. After about 30 seconds on the lugs, it finally loosed them. No way I would ever have broken them loose by myself.

mgburg · #43 06-08-2009, 02:40 PM

T'ing two compressors together will work if BOTH compressors are rated to handle the same P.S.I. compressing capacity and their holding tanks are similiarly rated...that also includes the T'ing components and related materials...the weakest item in all of this plumbing BETTER BE the pop-off values...

And, T'ing everything together will only get you more reserve pressure to last longer, not more pressure overall...two tanks of 200#s of pressure don't add up to 400#s of pressure...it just adds up to just two tanks of 200#s of pressure...period. Your tool will work about twice the time before it quits or the compressors kick back in to re-pressurize...

I use the anti-seize on the bolts and nuts...then the t-bar lug wrench...when the the t-bar quits spinning, I'm done torqueing...I've never had a tire fly off the car, a nut come loose or a nut seize on me while taking a tire off...

Now, the only other thing I could add is this...

Some tire shops have a set of "torque-wrenches" that they use on their air-guns in their shops...each one is marked on the perimeter of the torque-wrench head with a series of black "slashes" that "stop moving" when the proper torque level is reached...(sort of like the "strobe-lines" on the phonograph platters of record players back in the 70s and early 80s).

The "strobe-marks" on the torque-wrenches are aligned with the shop's flourescent lighting so if the mechanic is USING the flourescent lighting, those torque-wrenches are useful in getting you in the ball-park for the proper torque...but if they are using a shoplight (an incadescent bulb) and torqueing your nuts with that...you don't know for sure what the actual torque value is...

Better invest in a manual torque wrench and double-check their work...otherwise, you'll be loosening more than your tire's NUTS...

cmac2012 · #44 06-08-2009, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

The real question is whether the compressor has a tank. If so, the requirement of the impact wrench can be met without the capability of the compressor via the use of the air in the tank. Naturally, the tank pressure will drop, but, you'll only need full pressure for two seconds to break the nut loose.

The 3/8" hose will limit the airflow somewhat and the wrench won't develop the rated torque.........not much you can do about that.

I might heat the studs if the ends are exposed. They'll lengthen slightly and the clamping force from the nuts will drop dramatically.

These days I always carry a blowtorch in my car. Might need it for quick plumbing duty and heat has worked very well for me on stuck nuts.

kerry · #45 06-08-2009, 06:45 PM

I did try heating the lug bolt with a Mapp gas torch and using a 6' bar. Kept the heat on for 3 minutes. Did not break them free. They were REALLY tight.