Titanium Propellers- Please help - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Hatterasguy · #76 11-11-2008, 12:53 PM

Bronze props actualy suck, nibral is what you want. My grandfathers Chris Craft had nibral props and monel shafts.

Those are what good boats use, but they cost more. Nibral is nickle, brass, and I think aluminum, something like that. Holds up very well.

Stainless props are fine, but if you hit something the risk of doing damage is higher. They make composit props for larger motors that you plan on running around rocks. The blades are cheap and can be replace on the water for about $40 each. They just share right off.

I have seen the entire lower units ripped off stern drives and outboards, they share right off! The worst was on a Skater go fast with a Merc racing drive, he ripped the entire lower half off...its a $50k drive, not counting the prop...

We saw it right as he was pulling it out on the lift, puking gear oil still. That was an expensive mistake.

John Doe · #77 11-11-2008, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

To thick, what's it going on? The stuff you spray is very thin.

Wasn't familiar with that. Its a brass feathering 2 blade prop on my Van der Staadt.

Hatterasguy · #78 11-11-2008, 06:17 PM

Use that or the gray stuff from Pettit, should work well on your prop. When I worked at the marina thats what we used on the boats we painted, usualy about 200 every spring.

I think they might even offer clear now. When the EPA outlawed TBT they had to take all the clear antifouling off the market. I think some manufactures are offering clear again, they figured out how to make it work.

Mistress · #79 02-12-2009, 01:48 PM

bump

G-Benz · #80 02-12-2009, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

...Titanium is a perfect material for this application.........strong and relatively ductile. The blade won't fracture if the engine hits a bird at 300 mph...

The tips are coated with titanium carbide. If the turbo fans were pure titanium, the engine would destroy itself in minutes!!

waybomb · #81 02-12-2009, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVOtoGO

This brings me to something I saw the other day on TV regarding boat propellers.

Maybe Hatt can jump in here.

A guy was talking about all these bass boats running around with pretty stainless steal props. He though that was nuts.

- Shelby

If I used anything but stainless, I'd twist them to pieces. Well, other than titanium. These are expensive enough! If I hit something in the water, well, I'll probably breal the outdrive off.

rickg · #82 02-13-2009, 02:02 AM

So, what's the best prop wash to buy?

Hatterasguy · #83 02-13-2009, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waybomb

If I used anything but stainless, I'd twist them to pieces. Well, other than titanium. These are expensive enough! If I hit something in the water, well, I'll probably breal the outdrive off.

Pretty!

One of the guys at the marina last year ripped the lower part of the drive off of his Skater. Whats a Merc racing drive go for these days?

Two monts later he threw a blade off the new prop...expensive year

.

waybomb · #84 02-14-2009, 12:22 PM

Stainless labbed cleavers - about 3k each. A new #6 dry sump drive and gimble, around 60k, I think.

I've got two 4s and a 3. I can get these for around 10k each without gimbles, rebuilt correctly.

Props, I just scored one each RH and LH cleavers, on ebay, the correct ones no less, for a TOTAL of $300 bucks! The guy had the ad spelled wrong - "Clever Props". The score of the century for me!

Hatterasguy · #85 02-14-2009, 01:46 PM

Nice score! $300 for those props is literaly stealing them!

Yep thats the drive, the nice shiney stainless part is still on the bottom somewhere!

John Doe · #86 02-14-2009, 05:47 PM

Could probably get Paris Hilton or some NaSScar driver to sponsor props on the pink chop boat.

WVOtoGO · #87 02-14-2009, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waybomb

If I used anything but stainless, I'd twist them to pieces. Well, other than titanium. These are expensive enough! If I hit something in the water, well, I'll probably breal the outdrive off.

Well that’s a far cry from any Bass Boat though, isn’t it ?!

Dang dude - I start bleeding and loosing body parts just looking at that set-up sitting still.

I'll stick to spinning airplane props.

Can you say “Frappe’ please”….??

- Shelby

WVOtoGO · #88 02-14-2009, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waybomb

Stainless labbed cleavers - about 3k each. A new #6 dry sump drive and gimble, around 60k, I think.

I've got two 4s and a 3. I can get these for around 10k each without gimbles, rebuilt correctly.

Props, I just scored one each RH and LH cleavers, on ebay, the correct ones no less, for a TOTAL of $300 bucks! The guy had the ad spelled wrong - "Clever Props". The score of the century for me!

Well, that's all over my head...

But-

Hey, Joe...Trade ya a ride in a go-fast-spin-around-upside-down airplane, for a ride in that boat ?
Just how nasty is that thing ?

- Shelby

waybomb · #89 02-15-2009, 10:33 AM

You wanna trade a ride in a go fast for a ride in an Aerobatic? How could I say no?

Nasty - nope. It is a 18,000 pound when fully fueled and 5 people. Made of Kevlar, and a deep Vee ocean race boat built by Cougar in England. Dominated offshore for about 5 or 6 years late 80s.

Then the Cats and stepped hulls took over. But those are really not to safe in big water or in turns. Cats tend to take off, and have no control surfaces. Stepped hulls do not handle turns well at all. In both cases, death usually occurs when something goes wrong.

My boat drives like it is on rollercoaster rails. I love going out in 6-8 footers. It's usually only me on the lake then, even the sailboaters stay away. So the lake is mine when it is horrible on the water. I just love coming off of wave crests and flying for a while.

I've ridden in Fountains, Cigarettes, Active Thunders, etc. Mine rides like a Benz; theirs rides like a Chevette.

Mistress · #90 06-14-2009, 08:17 AM

bump