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-   -   Floor tiling advice (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=242474)

helpplease 01-13-2009 01:37 PM

Well the other problem with the hardwood floors is all the nail holes and the boards have a sizeable gap in them from all the contraction and expansion. Also tile floors in the kitchen add more value. (not to say that hardwood isn't good or anything)

davidmash 01-13-2009 03:14 PM

I laid about 800 sq ft of 16"x16" slate tiles about 5 years ago. Biggest PIA but well worth the effort. It was my first job but it came out very well.

I agree with starting in the center (esp for those who are new to the job) and depending on how quick you work and how much tiling you plan on doing I would suggest buying a tile cutter instead of renting. 2 or 3 days of rental can add up. I bought this one from harbor freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95385

Best buy I made. It has been loaned out for several jobs and the only things replaced are the belt and the blade. Other than that it works great.


Since floor pics are being included here are two of mine.


Starting out.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g8...s/P1010012.jpg


The end result.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g8...s/P7230015.jpg

TMAllison 01-13-2009 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe (Post 2076752)
Terry,

I've been in the tile and stone business for 26 years. Do you have a LINK to the TCA annual manual that is downloadable for free?

N/A to my knowledge; should be able to send pdf's from the CD version.

SirNik84 01-13-2009 07:57 PM

davidmash,

:beerchug:

That room looks NICE!

Someday in the FAR off future, I'd love to lay some slate on my patio.

Skid Row Joe 01-13-2009 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by helpplease (Post 2076922)
Thanks for all the advice guys and great looking tile floor pictures. I have hardwood floors in the kitchen but the old owners let some water damage get to it, its dried now no mold or anything just looks discolored, and there are nail holes everywhere!! I will be putting down 1/4 inch thick either hardibacker board or a georgia pacific product called Densheild. haven't really decided. In the entryway I will be tiling over plywood can't put anything else underneath it due to the height it would be at wouldn't allow the door to open.

In that case, go with Easyboard, from Custom Building Products Co. It's super lightweight, does the same job as the two you mentioned, and may be less money.

kerry 01-14-2009 01:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth (Post 2076931)
Simplist thing is to sand the wood down really well and put on three to five coats of oil based poly gloss. I have at least eight apartments so equipped and am not having problems with them after 8 years.

I expected to have to add ceramic tile after five years or so but its not been a problem.

X2. And if the stains in the wood are too deep to remove, floor paint can make a hardwood floor look very good. I have a number of painted wood floors in apartments. Black floor paint solves the problem of wide gaps between boards.
This won't solve the wife problem in and of itself, but pointing out that she'll be able to change the color of her kitchen floor in an afternoon might be enough to convince her that wood is not such a bad idea.

t walgamuth 01-14-2009 06:06 AM

In my apartments the grooves are pretty wide. Its an old commercial store built in 1913. Sanded professionally and refinished it looks really great and characterful. The apartments are always rented. Folks think its pretty cool looking.

It cost a lot more than carpet to put down initially but only requires damp mopping from time to time. and between tenants we put down a mop on wax.


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