Floor tiling advice
 

Hi all going to undertake the major task of tiling the kitchen floor and entryway floor. I was wondering if you guys had any advice for me before undertaking it. I have read 2 books on it and I think I have it figured out but books and the real world are different. So any advice would be great thanks guys!!!

My only advice is to purchase the thinset from a professional tile retailer and not from one of the box stores. Some of what they offer is pure garbage.

Any advice on the kind of thinset I was going to use Spectra set for the entryway and then use a tile adhseive for the kitchen. Any advice on these?

I haven't had much luck with anything that has the title "adhesive". But, I'm sure the result was dependent on the poor product from the box store.

Thanks Brian.

I've worked as a Project Manager/Estimator in the commercial tile and stone industry for 25 years. Email me if you have any questions.

Your choice of adhesive should be based upon the type of tile or stone you are installing and the substrate it will be installed over.

SpectraSet appears to be marketed to the homeowner market. Not one I've seen before. It is polymer modified and meets ANSI 118.4 so is a resonable choice of adhesive for use over concrete, plywood or tile backer boards. It should not be isntalled over OSB or particle board. http://laticrete.com/Portals/0/datasheets/lds6860.pdf

Knee Pads.

TMallison email sent Thanks! and Thanks to all you guys :D cheers will post pics after its done.

I am certain that Terry will fill you in on the necessary details but be certain that you have at least 1 1/8" of solid subfloor or the flexing of the substrate will make short work of the best tile job.

Best of luck,
Jim

Prep your subfloor really well. Screw down subfloor into joists with wood screws, build up with additional plywood, I use another 5/8" on top of existing 5/8" subfloor. Screw down.

Check floor for level. If some areas, like corners, are especially low, pour self-leveling compound to correct. Will save you a lot of hassle and mud when installing tiles.

If you are using any kind of natural stone or porous tile, seal before grouting, then seal again after.

Take time to plan your layout and starting points. Any centering natural hallways or sightlines can be paralleled with the layout.

A good tile saw, with water, is worth renting. Practice a few cuts on scrap, especially if you are installing large tiles.

Good luck!

On the new houses we usualy add 1/2 plywood on top of the 5/8 OSB we use for the floors. We use those engineered truss beams for the floors to commercial spec so the floor is already pretty stiff.

Doing this the tile levels up to the hardwood floors, so you can just finish it against the oak floor.

Also we use 12x12 tiles because they are the easy to install and cheap. At least our tile guys like 12x12.

........cheeeeaaaaaappppppp..........check it out in 20 years........:rolleyes:

It has a 50 year warranty, not all OSB is created equal too. This stuff holds nails really well which is important since most of the flooring is oak these days.

http://www.cppackagedhomes.com/I-Joists.jpg

We use these beams in the floor now. They are nice because they come up to 60ft long so you can have those vast open spaces everyone wants these days.

Won't take that long:D

Do you guys charge extra for the trampoline effect?????